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Another Alignment problem

mysticclam

Typo King
Joined
April 2, 2004
Messages
210
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0
City, State
Tacoma, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 XLT
Ever since I put the skyjacker lift in and 33, my truck would wander. It was hardly noticeable until you got above 45 then it was like pull right for abit, then go straight. It was random. That was after it was aligned. I took it back and the guy said it cant be perfect because the drag link bushing was worn where it connects to the pitman. Well I noticed the Toe was visibly off as well. I then made another appointment at a different les schwab (was close to work) since a drag link needed to be ordered. They wouldnt put it in when I brought the truck in a week later as they said the old one was fine. So he just fixed the tow. It steers much easier now but still pulls on the highway. One of the front tires is a different brand (they were used) I thought that might be the cause but its not a constant pull, its random like something is grabbing and releasing. Im gonna throw my old 31s back on the weekend and see if that does it but anyone have an idea what might pull only sometimes? Its not breaks as it will happens on the highway where not using breaks. Its pretty undriveable as constantly correcting then not to keep it straight.
 



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The edges of the tire coiuld be riding up the 'stud groove' in the pavement. If you're on the right side of the groove, it'll pull that way trying to climb up the side of the rut, if you're on the left side, same thing, it'll try to climb up the left side of the groove.

It may also follow longitudinal lines in the pavement. That's an issue with the tire tread pattern.

Caster will have a lot to do with 'groove pull'.
 






put my old 31s back on the front (didnt feel like getting out the high lift) The wheel still turned a bit left but it wasnt pulling. Got up to 60 on the highway still good. Then on the way back home went down a poorly paved sidestreet and it started doing it again. Im thinking something is a bit off and the bigger mismatched tires make it worse. I put the 33s back on on the reverse side so Im gonna see if it does it the opposite direction when i drive it tommorow. If it doesnt its somewhere in the suspension. I think the caster is off owing to setting the camber right with the lift springs. I think I can install one of those caster adjusting radius arm bushings. I only have to do the side I want to adjust right?
 






If you didn't get a printout of your alignment measurements, you should.

Not only do you set caster at each wheel but 'cross caster' is important too (the difference between the two) so if your thinking about caster adjustable RA bushings, do both.
 






I measured the 33s while they are off and they are exactly the same hight (off the truck anyway) Swapped the problem is not as bad but worse than with the 31s on in front. I wonder if having the rear higher made the difference. Anyway it stilled pulls the same direction so I doubt the mismatch of the tires is the problem. I have a printout and I think everything was in range. I thought about the riding the groove thing and noticed it was less pronounced if I drove on the very edge of the lane out of the tire ruts on I-5 here. I thought it was worse at speed but maybe its worse on the highway road itself. Perhaps the width of the tires means one of them is always partway out of the groove and partway in. Who knows.
 






Continue testing with various tire pressures.

How many miles are on your suspension?
 






Well, the springs are new and the wheel bearings are new. The balljoints were checked. I just looked at the printout on the alignment and everthing is good except the cross caster. Its out of spec at .6 degrees. According to this printout the acceptable range is -1.3 to -.3 so that is pretty out. So Im off to find out the difference between caster and cross caster. Where its at now is just annoying, its no longer a I dont think I should drive it feeling so its progressing. If I had figured on all this headache, I think i would have went with the jc whitney axle pivot drop bracket instead of the alignment cams.
 






I just looked at the printout on the alignment and everthing is good except the cross caster. Its out of spec at .6 degrees. According to this printout the acceptable range is -1.3 to -.3 so that is pretty out. So Im off to find out the difference between caster and cross caster.

Cross caster is the difference between right caster and left caster and that much will cause it to pull.

Camber adjusters usually compensate enough but you might need caster adjuster radius arm bushings to help.

This isn't dangerous, just annoying. If the pulling is really minor, you can compensate with tire pressure but that is just masking the problem.
 






Ever since I put the skyjacker lift in and 33, my truck would wander. It was hardly noticeable until you got above 45 then it was like pull right for abit, then go straight. It was random. That was after it was aligned. I took it back and the guy said it cant be perfect because the drag link bushing was worn where it connects to the pitman. Well I noticed the Toe was visibly off as well. I then made another appointment at a different les schwab (was close to work) since a drag link needed to be ordered. They wouldnt put it in when I brought the truck in a week later as they said the old one was fine. So he just fixed the tow. It steers much easier now but still pulls on the highway. One of the front tires is a different brand (they were used) I thought that might be the cause but its not a constant pull, its random like something is grabbing and releasing. Im gonna throw my old 31s back on the weekend and see if that does it but anyone have an idea what might pull only sometimes? Its not breaks as it will happens on the highway where not using breaks. Its pretty undriveable as constantly correcting then not to keep it straight.

I have the same lift, springs really, the geometry of the front end shifts with this lift, causing the caster to be off and unadjustable to perfection even with 3.5 degree adjuster(max). try a little more toe in than specified, just a touch, when the front end flattens out on the freeway it will track better, be more predictable, but never be perfect. Good Luck.

BTW i had mine alinged by an old school mechanic that did it manually, not the computer way. the specs dont match the computer with these springs and it will be all over the road after a computer alignment. Find someone old school to do it manually in your area, you will not be dissapointed. A steering stabilizer helps cure the wheel ripped out of your hand feel when hitting bumps also if you are noticing this trait.
 






Just as an update, had it aligned again as it was the last day when I didnt have to pay again and in my opinion its worse. It pulls the opposite direction but not as badly but it tends to want to wander again. I would have thought it would be a constant pull not pull release over and over again. Ball joints and wheel bearings are good but it seems like something is changing. Im starting to think new radius arm bushings might be a good idea anyway.

I think the bottom line is, my truck had decent sized camber adjusters in it all stock, coupled with the fact that someone removed the radius arm brackets and replaced at least one bushing and that both axle housings had wrecking yard marks, (and this would have been in its first two years since my folks have owned it from then till I got it. and we didnt have it done) Im thinking it was wreaked at some point and isnt quite straight enough to be aligned with the lift using just camber adjusters.

Im not sure, I might go with the adjustable radius arm bushings or I may just park it till summer and put on a proper lift kit with drop brackets, perhaps one that has adjusters built in.
 






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