Another EGR problem, DPFE?

[Willard]

So I'm bumping this thread again. The problem has never been fixed, and I want to fix it to see if I can get some better gas mileage.

Same things as before, the EVR is known functioning, as told my resistance tests and a vacuum gauge. The EGR valve itself works fine, activates when vacuum is applied as it should. But, alas, the DPFE still isn't sensing right.

I just don't know what it could be. All the DPFE voltages checked are straight from the sensor, to rule out wiring. The only thing it might be is the connection itself, but the connection seems to be solid to me. I will give that a shot next time I can fuss with it.

The only other thing I can think of at this point is that something is funky with the tube itself. Luckily Rock Auto carries them now, but $40 isn't exactly in my budget at the moment, so this is a very last resort.

I guess the other thing is that even though I've tried something like three DPFE sensors from a parts store, none of them work like they are supposed to, and I need a motorcraft one. But I feel like even a crappy autozone one should at least work mostly like it should, and mine isn't even close.

Any ideas?

 

[Willard]

Well nobody seems to know anything, but I'll update with my latest progress.

I fussed with it some after work, cleaning the connection and applying some electrical grease to the connection to make sure it's good. I drove it a fair amount to see what affect it had. I had it disconnected before, because it ran like crap because it was giving it too much EGR. Now with it connected it runs like normal, but I'm not sure it's giving it any EGR, because after two trips with some highway driving, the valve was not hot like it had exhaust gasses going through it.

But, when checking to see if it was actually working, I saw the EGR valve move when I revved the motor, so it has to be doing something.

One question, the haynes manual I have says the voltage reading from the sensor at hot idle should be 4-6 volts. This doesn't make much sense to me, because that would mean it's giving it almost full EGR at idle, which wouldn't work and would make the engine stumble. I'm getting around .35 volts at hot idle, which is what the book says it should be at cold idle. Can anybody confirm if the books info is correct?