Another P0741 code

[BBF]

1999 Mounty 4.0 SOHC, 5r55e, believe I'm the 2nd owner, it was a rental co. trade-in in 2000 when I bought it, I don't recall the miles when purchased.

So, it now has 151K mi trans started giving the flashing O/D light and after having a trans shop check code and test drive they said it'll cost at least $2,500 to rebuild the trans because the OD clutch is going out. So I give it its first fluid/filter change since, ya I know but I religiously change the engine oil, and now not only does the rubber pan gasket leak but I hear a clattering when moving under 1,500rpm. Maybe fragments that got washed down with the change and are now in the mix? There was a good tblspoon worth of dark grey sludge on the pan magnets and I found a single small 1mmx1mmx0.5mm piece of metal in the pan. So now, I read that even rebuilds have frequent problems and am thinking maybe I should trade it in & move on.

I'm contemplating just trading it in and moving on. However, I like the SOHC/5sp. So, what's a reasonable life expectancy of a rebuilt 5R55e? Is the a "New" trans that'll fit in instead?

 

[PopRichie77]

That amount of sludge is normal if it was never serviced before. The metal thing is probably out of the original pan gasket, they were many in the gasket to prevent crushing the gasket when the bolts were tightened. I assume you used a new pan gasket, it either got damaged or you over tightened it, if it is leaking. Are you sure the fluid level is correct and the O-rings are on the filter. You might try replacing the torque converter solenoid.

If it was 1x1x.5mm, it didn't come from the pan gasket.

 

[BBF]

Thanks POP. I'm going back under tonight to redo pan bolts. I don't have a inch/pound torque meter so I'll try finger tight with 1/8-1/4 turn extra, about the feel of them when I took them off to start with. The old gasket was cork with two metal shafts next to each bolt-hole; worked good. I double checked the O-rings were on the new filter before installing it.

More info: The noise goes away when above 1,500rpm and returns when below; it also goes away when placed into park or neutral.

 

[drdoom]

Thanks POP. I'm going back under tonight to redo pan bolts. I don't have a inch/pound torque meter so I'll try finger tight with 1/8-1/4 turn extra, about the feel of them when I took them off to start with. The old gasket was cork with two metal shafts next to each bolt-hole; worked good. I double checked the O-rings were on the new filter before installing it.

More info: The noise goes away when above 1,500rpm and returns when below; it also goes away when placed into park or neutral.

What kind of noise is it? Is it like a howling or screeching?
You can read about my experience with CODE P0741 here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316800

 

[BBF]

It's a clattering noise similar to valves in need of adjusting but not consistent or related to rpm above 1,500. Almost like a couple pieces of parts in a can rolling sideways but not sliding but tumbling down the side of the can. Seems like a part that is bouncing around & tumbling then cent. force sticks it to the side of the can at higher rpm. Wouldn't a bad solenoid make a consistently patterned noise? Is the trans fluid pressure proportional to trans. rpm? Maybe that's why there's no noise in P or N.

 

[drdoom]

It's a clattering noise similar to valves in need of adjusting but not consistent or related to rpm above 1,500. Almost like a couple pieces of parts in a can rolling sideways but not sliding but tumbling down the side of the can. Seems like a part that is bouncing around & tumbling then cent. force sticks it to the side of the can at higher rpm. Wouldn't a bad solenoid make a consistently patterned noise? Is the trans fluid pressure proportional to trans. rpm? Maybe that's why there's no noise in P or N.

I wonder if it is the timing chain rattling?

 

[PopRichie77]

It's sounding like you may have a bad torque converter, the metal you found could have came from there. If your sure the noise is coming from the trans? If it is bad a total rebuild is needed to get any metal pieces out, along with a new torque converter.

 

[drdoom]

It's sounding like you may have a bad torque converter, the metal you found could have came from there. If your sure the noise is coming from the trans? If it is bad a total rebuild is needed to get any metal pieces out, along with a new torque converter.

I had the same problem.

 

[BBF]

Thanks fellas, TC was what I was thinking as well. Now, to consider my options. cough up the 2K for the shop to rebuild it, do it myself or move to another rig.

 

[drdoom]

Thanks fellas, TC was what I was thinking as well. Now, to consider my options. cough up the 2K for the shop to rebuild it, do it myself or move to another rig.

Always a tough decision.
Please let us know how it turns out.

 

[starlite]

Noise

Sounds like the torque converter, either way the trans should be rebuilt.if your going to keep it, :exp:

 

[BBF]

Drat! Well, I'm not excited about doing it myself but I could do it pending it doesn't require any special $300+ tools/training. Do ya think I could get away with dropping, cleaning and swapping in a new TC and completely rebuilt VB? I hate to give up $1,000+ for labor that I can do. I was looking on the net comparing other domestic suvs but it'd be a roll of the dice trading this in for a different rig thats the same age.

 

[PopRichie77]

Not a good idea, metal fragments from the old torque converter are probably in the trans, valve body,servos, radiator cooler, trans cooler and the lines. Not all fluid returns to the pan some continues to circulate and doesn't go thru the filter.

Get a used replacement

 

[BBF]

I've been thinking about that route as well. Are there other 5r55's out there that were better? If I go that route, then swap the lines & cooler as well or just flush and cross my fingers?

 

[drdoom]

Maybe you can find a used one, but if it has many miles on it, that is "A toss of the dice"...

Around here, transmission shops charge well over $3,000 for this job. Transmissions from Jasper are $3,100, but I believe that includes a warranty & a torque converter. Quality rebuilt units on the Net go for around $2,000, while eBay sells them for around $650 + core + shipping for both, so figure $1,100 for those.

Something to consider: if eBay is selling warrantied units for only $650, there is no way they are doing much to them.

I can tell you one thing, the R&R is the meat of the job, especially if you don't have a lift. The actual rebuilding of the unit is not bad, but will require some specialty tools if you are replacing bushings.

Best wishes.

 

[BBF]

Thanks.

 

[BBF]

Calling Bob at AAMCO today; personally recommended by childhood friend who owns his own mechanic shop (friend DOESN'T do transmissions). His verbal quote (~ $2,400) for a standard rebuild of the current trans includes 3yr/30k warranty. Any special upgrades I should request?

 

[PopRichie77]

Does that price include a rebuilt valve body or do they rebuild yours?

 

[BBF]

Rebuild mine.

 

[BBF]

Just got off the phone. He rattled off a list and I only got some: They'll replace the solenoids, a switch or two, gaskets, clutches, TC, bands, seals, rebuild the VB... with a heavier duty TC and Reprogram kit "shift kit". All for under $2K as long as the gears etc. don't need replaced. I could take on the expense & headache but they'll give me the 3x30 warranty I can't give myself, not to mention the time and any unforseens. SO, I gotta wonder what will give once a rebuilt tranny is put in? Engine? X-fer case? There's not much else left I couldn't handle.

Anything I should look out for regarding the trans rebuild (specific solenoid, switch, wire...) that I should have them replace anyways or not install specific brand?

He said they use Ford boxed parts as well as Toledo, Trans-tech, ...