antifreeze flow control valve

[kps36]

A little insight/suggestion pleeze.
On my Ranger, not that the Ex is different, I noticed a small puddle under the car under the engine on the pass. side. upon further inspection I noticed it was dripping from the antifreeze flow control valve. This is the 2 hose in: 1 hose out that goes into the cabin. the valve has a vacuum controlled toggle/level that works from the switch inside. It drips in ALL positions except OFF. I ran it through a full cycle of Heat/Air....it dripped until I tirned it off. From the setup, I am not sure if it is leaking from one of the hoses or the actuator box itself, after all it is plastic. It only has lost about 1.5 pints as the drip is slow, but it just started 2 days ago and as long as it if OFF it doesn't leak, but I really would like to use the AC again.
?) will the 'Bars Leak' stuff work ?
?) Should I get a new valve (how $$ ?) and hoses ?

Anyone with experince on this ?
thnx in advance.

 

[Maniak]

Most explorers from around 1994 or higher have this valve...

Out 1992 didn't so our A/C didn't work very well..

I went to Autozone (might have been checker auto parts) and was able to buy it there.. I think it cost me about $15 or so..

Not an expensive or hard part to replace..

~Mark

 

[410Fortune]

Thats the hot water bypass, when you are not using the heater it makes the coolant bypass the heater core, less heat generated inside the cab. I added this valve to my 88 BII because the heater core makes a ton of heat on hot days. replace it for $15 like stated above. Unfortunatley they are plastic and break easily so be careful with it.

 

[Maniak]

The place I bought it has it listed as a "heater control valve" that might help in finding one..

~Mark

 

[dogfriend]

I had this valve fail on my explorer last year. It is easy to replace and only cost $14.40 at the Ford dealer. (F87Z-18495-AA)

I wouldn't use bar leak or any of the similar stuff that you put in the radiator. In my experience, this stuff will eventually plug up your radiator and you will need to get it rodded out or replaced. I don't think it would work that well on the heater control valve anyway.

 

[jimbo74]

i recently replaced mine for about $25..... took only a few minutes... mine didnt break from age, but from my hand smacking it trying to take apart my airbox....

 

[kps36]

Thanx to all.
After further inspection, I decided what I am going to do is to get a new valve, and 4 (yeah I missed one, it's 2 in 2 out) heater hoses. Looks to be simple except getting to the hose clamps against the firewall. I was going to replace those with screw type clamps, but the position will probably dictate that I use the squeeze type that's on there now.
I was hesitant on using the BarLeak stuff not because of causing a blockage, but that it might actually sieze that valve and cause a hose to blow (not a pretty visual).
Like I said, as long as the CControl switch is in the OFF position, it doesn't leak. This w/e project ! Time to call NAPA !
Thnx again!