Are My Spider Gears Worn and Loose?

[fredhdyman]

We maybe the sound when I turn by hand is just the R&P gears meshing together? I don’t know? I’m not sure what the heck is making the noise now?

I have spider and side gears out along with the clutch packs. I still feel no play anywhere, could the clutch plates make this loud noise I hear? I didn’t take the carrier out yet in fear that I would have to adjust the gear pattern. Any ideas on what I should be looking for?

Thanks again

 

[IZwack]

THe ring and pinion gears dont really make any sound when they are meshing against each other.

Dont worry about reseting the gear pattern because, as long as you get the torque spec on the carrier bolts within spec (or close to), and the carrier caps are in their original position, then nothing has changed.

 

[fredhdyman]

Thanks, I'll remove the carrier. So maybe the bearings are making the noise..........back under my X. away I go

 

[fredhdyman]

OK I removed the carrier; the bearings on the pinion yoke don’t feel right. There is no play but when rotating the shaft it feels like turning a safe lock mechanism. It’s not real hard to turn but definitely not smooth to turn, so does this mean I need to replace the bearings? And if so do I need to reset the gear pattern?

Thanks again

 

[IZwack]

Yes you need to reset the gear pattern but only half of it -- the pinion end.

Unfortunately, the Ford 8.8 utilizes a dreaded crush sleeve which takes a huge amount of torque to crush (like a long tube to extend a breaker bar).

So I guess at this point, if you're going to undertake the ordeal, you need to go out and get:

• a set of bearings and races for the pinion (there are two, front and back)
• a few punches and a hammer (to knock the races out)
• a crush sleeve (from the dealer)
• a screwdriver set or chisels to remove the old bearing (this is a crude approach, should really be be using a bearing puller but it'll work)
• a small section of tube to drive the new bearing in (or you can get it pressed in at a shop for a few dollars)
• a breaker bar with maybe a 4-ft extension to crush the crush sleeve
• the right socket to go over the pinion nut on the input flange

This link below goes over regearing the 8.8 -- which I think goes over on how to replace the pinion bearings and such: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144780

But in general, you need to:

• put the carrier, axle shafts, tires, and set the vehicle back down on the ground so you can loosen the pinion nut (unless you have an impact gun)
• remove the tires, axle shafts and carrier to remove the pinion nut (make a note of how the parts at the front of the pinion came apart such as the seal, bearings, washer, and so on)
• remove the pinion (zip-lock and mark any shim stack you find in this process)
• remove the pinion's rear bearing and replace (zip-lock and mark any shim stack you find in this process too)
• punch the old races out of the housing (look for a little half-moon notch on the housing, put the punch there -- zip-lock and mark any shim stack you find in this process)
• replace the races using the original shim stacks found (if any)
• put the pinion back with the original shim stack, crush sleeve, bearings, and whatever else -- back into the axle housing.
• put the carrier, axle shafts, tires and set the axle back down on the ground
• jack the chassis up so you have as much room as possible while the tires still have good grip on the ground
• crush the crush sleeve -- the amount of torque on the flange that should be required to turn the input flange is something like 20 inch-pounds (thats inch pounds, not foot pounds) -- this is called the prereload.

I'm sure I missed a few steps but that link I posted above should cover most of the details -- if not, get a repair manual (Chiltons or a Haynes).

 

[fredhdyman]

Wow, Thank you very much, I'll let you know how it turns out.

Fred

 

[fredhdyman]

Project complete!

Took some time but since this was my first I didn’t want to mess up. The bearings on the pinion was most difficult, had to removed the casing cage that hold the bearings in then made a tool to press it out. The main problem was the rear pinion bearing, looked like pits all inside them races. Well its been 200 miles and sounds quit and no leaks too, thanks again for the advice and tips.

P.S. Noticed that the rear shackles are badly rusted I know my next project now.

 

[IZwack]

Glad to hear you were able to accomplish such a massive project