Assessment of my cost of ownership - 2001 XLT 4x4 V-6 SOHC

[davem]

My 2001 XLT 4x4 V-6 SOHC currently has 185K miles on it. I've owned it since 2003 with 35K miles on it. This forum has been extremely helpful for me through the years and I am thankful for all who post here.

I just paid $750 for brake calipers, rotors, pads, etc .............. which got me to thinking of all the repairs I've had to my Explorer since 2003............ so I pulled out my receipts, entered it into a spreadsheet, to get a total. Mind you, this includes tires (I think 3 sets at about $500-600 per set), a single exhaust/muffler job, radiator flush, trans fluid change, basic brake work, etc - items that are pretty routine maintenance, really. But I've had multiple wheel bearings, tie rod work, ball joints, driveshaft replaced, etc. (I'm not counting all the oil changes and minor stuff I've done myself.) Fortunately the only tranny work was a new dipstick tube (rotted) and the only engine item was intake gaskets (probably best money I ever spent on this rig).

So my grand total is just over $10K. Spread over my 13 years of ownership (repairs have really picked up since 2010, which only makes sense), that does not seem too bad, but I have to admit, its higher than I expected.

Any comments ? Typical ? In line ?


I'm hoping to get another 14 months on this Explorer ...................

 

[koda2000]

I think you're paying too much for your parts and labor.

6 years cost of ownership on my 2001 5.0L EB around $1500
- Front ceramic brake pads $60 (w/free lifetime replacement)
- Upper and lower ball joints (Moog) and front end links $265
- Fuel pump, filter and sock $90
- Tires $700
- Wheel alignment $66
- Spark plugs $40
- Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil changes (6) $210
- Replaced leather driver's seat bottom cover $200

 

[XLTrunner]

Any time you have someone do general maintenance work on your vehicle, you can just about figure it's going to be 3-4 times what it would have cost in parts to do it yourself...if, you buy them right from Rockauto or Amazon. But, it's understood not everybody can do their own work for whatever reason. I did a similar cost summary on my '98 last summer. New upper/lower Moog ball joints, inner/outer Moog tie rods, front/rear Gabriel Max Control shocks, both Timken wheel brgs and Wagner Thermo-quiet ceramic brake pads for all 4 wheels. Came to $677 from Rockauto. All said and done (after also figuring shipping vs local sales tax), I saved $457 over buying them locally at O'Reilly Auto.

I still think averaging expenses of $770/yr is a bargain over what you might pay in monthly installments on a late model used or new vehicle.

 

[1998Exp]

Bought my '98 when it was two years old with about 35,000 miles. In 17 years and about 130,000 miles of ownership spent about $300/year on repair parts, maintenance items and tools. $0 paid to mechanics (who certainly hate me by now). Depreciation is my main expense - by far.

 

[Prince_Polaris]

Since my 1998 Sport is my first car, I've gotten a bit Gouged with:

2700 for the car itself
500 (I think) For the inspectors to inspect it and fix the Sway bar things and replace the rear tires
400 to get tags and Plates (Thanks Maryland)
1,040 for 2016-2017 Insurance (I make three payments at the end of the year)
500 to fix the seat after I broke it, it costs so much because of labor I assume, instead of getting another seat (as they are all defective) I got them to disassemble it and reinforce it. Oh, and I think I had them put in a new front cigarette lighter for my FM broadcaster since I didn't know how at the time.

And then however much I've been spending on gas, and it's going to be 300 for labor and who knows how much for the parts for my Timing Chain Guides, something is going on because my friend was supposed to get it on Friday and it's still here. He's been having Family issues and is backed up on work, so I won't throw too much of a fit... and I'd be looking at thousands if I took it to an actual repair shop.

But hey, I've taken care of all the big things now and unlike every other car in maryland it's not rusted to pieces, so let's hope I'm not looking towards any big bills in the future!

(By the way, surprisingly I'm having fun driving the "Dodge Deathtrap" around, the bald tires mean it's a bit of fun to spin the wheels each time I hit the gas! it would be nice to have a back window, but I guess it's good I learned the "That tree is a lot closer than it looks" lesson in a rusty minivan instead of my explorer. The fun kind of dies when the brakes get stuck and I have to get out on the side of the road and whack the calipers with a hammer to make them work again... and the rattling suspension doesn't do my worry any favors either.)

 

[CDW6212R]

Interesting, I thought this thread would be about the OP having little costs except for the engine and transmission, which are the huge weak links of these trucks(the SOHC and 5R55E).

I bought my 98 Mercury in October of 2003, and spent about $500 about two months later(grinding noise up front). I guessed at the left hub or axle, did those and it had no change. Then I pulled the front driveshaft, and with no more noise, I had a custom flange made to replace the CV joint with a different shaft. After that I spent nothing until years later it wouldn't start sometimes, and I first guessed at the fuel pump. That turned out to be the PATS key receiver at the cylinder, broken away.

My first 2nd gen cost me that little, for ten years before I had wear issues from delivering mail for about 18 months. I haven't driven it much since then but I rebuilt the front suspension and front diff. Beyond that costs are all normal maintenance items, which should be basically similar for any vehicle, even new. You have to replace tires and brakes, and do fluid changes, for all cars, even new. So do not count normal maintenance items in the cost of operating any vehicle. What costs more for used cars are the worn out parts or issues that require repair.

That's why I see the V6 SOHC and the matching transmission as weak links. Those will require service or repair much more often than the 302 engine and trans. The OHV V6 is also a reliable engine able to go 150k miles or more with little maintenance.

These 2nd gen Explorers are very low cost vehicles to maintain. But remember that the person responsible for its reliability the most is the driver, or mechanic if you don't do anything yourself. The vehicle itself is not the biggest issue to reliability, it's the person responsible for taking care of it. Any vehicle, if you ignore it(neglect), it will eventually fail, and at great cost.

 

[koda2000]

Bought my '98 when it was two years old with about 35,000 miles. In 17 years and about 130,000 miles of ownership spent about $300/year on repair parts, maintenance items and tools. $0 paid to mechanics (who certainly hate me by now). Depreciation is my main expense - by far.

Around $300 a year sounds about right depending on how many miles your driving per year, and if your doing your own repairs. Besides saving big bucks on parts and labor, I do my own repairs because I like knowing that things are done correctly, to know the quality of the parts I'm installing, to save money and the satisfaction I get out of fixing stuff myself.

Over the years I've had too many bad experiences with mechanics and dealerships. I have a friend who has a small shop. On the rare occasion there's a repair I don't want to do myself, I let him do it. He's honest and very reasonable on labor. The last repair he made for me was to replace a power steering rack on a '95 Pontiac in the middle of winter, 9 years ago. I supplied the replacement rack, fluid and hoses. It was not a simple job. IIRC he charged me $100 for labor, which was well worth it.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's the way to do your repairs. Do what you can, and find a trustworthy shop or friend to do the most difficult or troublesome tasks.

I plan to never R&R control arm bushings again. I've been around that being done many times while working in dealerships, and I've done it once myself. That is very dangerous, the bushings often fly out dangerously fast and can hurt you. Certain jobs should be avoided just for difficulty or danger reasons.

 

[davem]

Sounds like my annual average cost of $770, given that I'm paying a shop (not a dealership, which I assume would naturally tend to be even more expensive) to perform these repairs, is a 'reasonable' amount to keep a vehicle in the road.

This is my first SUV, so was not sure what to expect.

When I compare it (unfairly, I know) to other vehicles I've had/have in my fleet (mid-size sedans, compacts, minivans, etc), its a much higher annual repair cost. I'll attribute some/most of that to the added weight, 4x4 itself, etc. (And probably should brace myself for similar higher repair numbers down the road with my 2012 F-150.)

 

[scrivyscriv]

My 2001 XLT 4x4 V-6 SOHC... the only engine item was intake gaskets (probably best money I ever spent on this rig).

On a side note.. about what mileage did you replace those intake gaskets? I know everyone ends up needing them.. but I don't recall seeing any average mileage number when doing the job.

Your costs per year sound great.. I think the 2nd gen Explorers have quite a lot going for them to make ownership such a reasonable cost. There are plenty in the junkyard to pull good used parts from, aftermarket support is great, any auto parts store sells Explorer maintenance items, and the real key is a decent engine with OBD2. The first gens were harder to diagnose with just EEC-IV.. same engine, a little more work involved in troubleshooting.
I personally like the OHV engine a lot. It's an unrefined powerplant, as a friend put it, but very reliable. Well unless you count cracked heads.. that kind of sucks.

 

[koda2000]

Sounds like my annual average cost of $770, given that I'm paying a shop (not a dealership, which I assume would naturally tend to be even more expensive) to perform these repairs, is a 'reasonable' amount to keep a vehicle in the road.

This is my first SUV, so was not sure what to expect.

When I compare it (unfairly, I know) to other vehicles I've had/have in my fleet (mid-size sedans, compacts, minivans, etc), its a much higher annual repair cost. I'll attribute some/most of that to the added weight, 4x4 itself, etc. (And probably should brace myself for similar higher repair numbers down the road with my 2012 F-150.)

When I could afford it, I never really had (or had to paid for) repairs (other than routine maintenance) as I bought a new car ever 2 years or so. Those days are gone. These days I have more time than money, so I'm buying used vehicles for myself and family. I actually prefer to buy vehicles that need work to save on the initial cost. A perfect vehicle for me to find is one that is well optioned with a good body and interior and an engine and trans that are not on their last legs. Anything else I can fix myself. For the past 7 years I've been seeking out Gen II Explorers/Mountaineers (mostly V8's). Having multiples of the same vehicles makes repairs that much easier for me, as once I figure out how to fix something on one I know what to do on all the others. I'm currently fixing up a '00 5.0L Mounty AWD, which I'd originally bought for my eldest daughter 4 years ago, for my son-in-law to get to/from work with. We're replacing his old '97 Sport. I'd paid $2150 for the Mounty in 2013 (w/159k on it) and I bought it back for $650 last weekend. I'm replacing the belt tensioner and idler pulleys and the A/C compressor clutch and making some minor repairs (which my son-in-law is paying for). I will check the suspension and brakes next and have suggested he get a wheel alignment. Other than that it should be ready to go by this weekend.

 

[davem]

On a side note.. about what mileage did you replace those intake gaskets? I know everyone ends up needing them.. but I don't recall seeing any average mileage number when doing the job.

.......

My intake gaskets were replaced on 12/10/2013, at 146,892 miles.

Cost me $358 - worth every penny, in terms of improved cold starts.

 

[96eb96]

If you can't DIY an older car it may not pay to keep it. The cheapest shops are $100 for an hour of labor, and it can go into the $150s in some places. Even the non ase certified tire places where they hire people off the street are close to 100. They all surcharge when you bring parts, and you also lose the warranty. So, $500 for an alternator, radiator, starter, etc is quite reasonable. The $150 part is marked up to 250-300, and then 2 give or take hours of labor. The 99$ brake job can easily become $1000 if you need rotors, hoses and calipers. You also have to assume honesty, where mechanics can very easily suggest things that may or may not be needed, or at their discretion. I know when I DIY I tend to change lots of things because parts are cheap with discounts, I may suggest those things to customers if I was a pro. Others may just say they are absolutely needed and pad the bill.

Owning a shop is also extremely expensive, scan tools alone cost in the 5 figures. I don't think the owners get filthy rich from a small shop, but make a solid income. So just saying so and so repair has a crazy price vs DIY isn't a good analogy.

 

[Prince_Polaris]

If you can't DIY an older car it may not pay to keep it. The cheapest shops are $100 for an hour of labor, and it can go into the $150s in some places. Even the non ase certified tire places where they hire people off the street are close to 100. They all surcharge when you bring parts, and you also lose the warranty. So, $500 for an alternator, radiator, starter, etc is quite reasonable. The $150 part is marked up to 250-300, and then 2 give or take hours of labor. The 99$ brake job can easily become $1000 if you need rotors, hoses and calipers. You also have to assume honesty, where mechanics can very easily suggest things that may or may not be needed, or at their discretion. I know when I DIY I tend to change lots of things because parts are cheap with discounts, I may suggest those things to customers if I was a pro. Others may just say they are absolutely needed and pad the bill.

Owning a shop is also extremely expensive, scan tools alone cost in the 5 figures. I don't think the owners get filthy rich from a small shop, but make a solid income. So just saying so and so repair has a crazy price vs DIY isn't a good analogy.

I'm thinking of trying to fix things on my own as they go wrong, so I sure hope I can learn cars as fast as I learned computers! This forum is helping a lot already, and I'm sure once I stop being scared of "getting my hands dirty" then I should be able to get some stuff done. Heh, so far, the most complicated thing I've done was helping my Pap replace the serpentine belt in his 1988 custom chevy van, that thing was a massive pain because after opening the hood, you have maybe a foot and a half or less of room to get in there!

 

[toypaseo]

When my parents had my Explorer, they had to replace the transfer case, which I think cost them around $3000. So between 1996 and whenever I got it, maybe 2004(?), that was their major expense, with oil changes at the Ford dealer being the only other. I don't think they had any other costly problems. Even the tires were free due to the recall.

Since I have had it, replaced the heater control valve, rear passenger lock solenoid, front swaybar endlinks, shocks, windshield, two idler pullies, two belt tensioners, two belts, battery, numerous wipers, radiator, top and bottom radiator hoses, spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, radiator cap, front rotors and pads, rear cargo side window, rear tailllight, three sets of tires, spare tire mechanism...

Oil changes done, of course. Besides that, mostly optional stuff. Center console cover, driver side window belt moldings, bugshield, grilles, headlights and bulbs, foglights, corner light, another taillight, underhood panel with the headlight access flaps...

Total costs unknown, but no huge wallet-busting amounts at one time.