At 200k miles, what would you replace?

[masospaghetti]

Just bought a 98 XLT, 4wd, 5-speed with 200k miles on it. I'm in the process of rebuilding the front suspension completely. My question is, would you replace:

1. Wheel hubs
2. CV axles
3. Brake calipers
4. Brake hoses
5. Anything else while i'm in there?

I'm assuming wheel hubs and axles will essentially be zero extra labor to replace, since i'm putting in new upper and lower control arms anyway. I'm also assuming everything is OE, since most parts so far have been (shocks look original, and even items like the oxygen sensors were original).

Thanks all!

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

I personally would inspect said parts and replace those that are necesary only,most of those parts are easy fixes down the road.

 

[Joe Dirt]

CV axles are probably fine if the boots aren't torn and there wasn't a torsion twist. Plus, whatever CV axles you get are probably going to be of lesser quality than the OEM's. I replaced mine in Wedgie, and wished I'd spent the $120 on something else. Hubs, eh, I might do that if you're keeping the truck since everything will be apart. I'd do all of the sway bar bushings though. Are you tossing on shocks? Might do brakes also for the heck of it if they're marginal...

 

[masospaghetti]

I plan on keeping the truck for awhile, just want a dependable vehicle. I'm already doing sway bar bushings, upper and lower control arms, brake pads, and shocks.

The PO "said" he used it mostly for highway driving to visit his family which was like 200 miles away. The truck hasn't be raised or lowered or anything.

Thanks for your input.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

I plan on keeping the truck for awhile, just want a dependable vehicle. I'm already doing sway bar bushings, upper and lower control arms, brake pads, and shocks.

The PO "said" he used it mostly for highway driving to visit his family which was like 200 miles away. The truck hasn't be raised or lowered or anything.

Thanks for your input.

When doing the brakes, make sure to either get new rotors, or get the old ones turned at a shop. just remember that pads, and rotors wear together.

 

[Turdle]

And loc tite on the brake caliper ( to knuckle) bracket bolts. I use blue on em.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Inner & outer tie rods, wheel bearings, bearing hubs, all sway bar bushings, new shocks, should ride like new.

 

[Cranmaro99]

Don't forget to check the balljoints...

 

[masospaghetti]

Yeah the ball joints are being changed, for sure - I'm getting control arms with ball joints already pressed in.

 

[drdoom]

Get some decent pads, good brake grease, go over those real good, replacing any torn dust boots, including the outer tie rod ends. Change out the front differential oil to a full synthetic, and check the vent tube. Rotate tires if needed. Sway bar end links, if applicable.

 

[01EXP5.0]

I personally would inspect said parts and replace those that are necesary only,most of those parts are easy fixes down the road.

I gotta agree if it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

[drdoom]

I gotta agree if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Same here.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

why would you loktite the calipers on? I've had mine off and on many times, as well as other vehicles, never had a problem.

 

[drdoom]

I think he means the caliper brackets.

 

[rabbit91]

locktite because the caliper bolts come loose?

 

[rabbit91]

I gotta agree if it ain't broke don't fix it.

I agree

except shocks and brakes

 

[masospaghetti]

I appreciate everyone's input.

I've gotten the spindle off and there's evidence that the hub seal has failed (grease) although the bearing itself still feels smooth. Will be replacing it. CV axle still seems OK - I think i'll leave that one alone. Is it worth changing the axle seals now?

Also, both the upper and lower ball joints have about 1/4" of play in all directions (!). The boots are completely gone and the joint is completely dry and rusted. I couldn't believe the truck drove the way it did with such wear on the suspension.

Brake fluid obviously hasn't be changed in a long time and I drained the power steering fluid to access a bolt to remove the upper control arm. Clearly, the PS fluid has been in there a long time too. Smelled terrible.

Will keep you'all updated.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Sounds like you've got it under control- good choice on the brake and PS fluid also...

 

[Bob 2000 Exp]

You may want to check your spark plugs, since they are easier to get to with you working on the suspension....

 

[masospaghetti]

An update from tonight:

Got the upper control arm installed with the camber alignment bolts on the driver's side. It was a bear to get the bolts in and out because of all the fuel and brake lines running in that area. The passenger side, by comparison, looks wide open and easy. Also got the lower control arm installed. Was a bit tricky to get the torsion bar back in (would have been easy with a second person). Something to note - after I detached the shock, I was able to lower the control arm down until it was basically vertical, and then the torsion bar fell out by itself. The new control arm had a slightly different shape; it would only hang about 45 degrees from the vertical with the bolts lined up.

Pretty much every component is trashed. The bushings are cracked and as noted earlier, the ball joints have a ridiculous amount of play in them.

Got the new shock installed.

Working on removing the inner tie rod end. There are wrench flats on it - do I just put a wrench on it and bear down on it? I feel like I might break the rack &/or pinion if I do that. (The inner tie rod end, I discovered, is also shot.)

Bob_2000_Exp: Thanks for the tip. I would have, but already installed new plugs and wires the hard way.