At wits end

[Scooby0048]

Just a heads up a normal compression tester kit doesn't include an adapter to fit the 3v plug holes. You have to buy it separately.

I wonder if AZ would have the right fitting in the tool loan program. I have a Craftsman compression tester and it has many adapters

 

[Explorer_PL]

In my case it sounded like the phasers, or some major issue with the timing gear. Interestingly, on the highway, it was 100% fine, at low speeds and stop signs it would stall and die. 2 shops told me I need e new engine, which I fell for- stupid me.
Got a used low mileage engine, dropped it in with a friend, started it and the same noise was there.
It turned out to be a bad torque converter that was locked and was not disengaging at a stop, and stalling the engine.

 

[Scooby0048]

In my case it sounded like the phasers, or some major issue with the timing gear. Interestingly, on the highway, it was 100% fine, at low speeds and stop signs it would stall and die. 2 shops told me I need e new engine, which I fell for- stupid me.
Got a used low mileage engine, dropped it in with a friend, started it and the same noise was there.
It turned out to be a bad torque converter that was locked and was not disengaging at a stop, and stalling the engine.

See that's interesting about the phasers. I was told that they can make that noise and be fine indefinitely and not be a problem.

 

[Explorer_PL]

In my case, when I took the front cover on the old motor just for fun, the phasers were fine, all the guides were intact, chains were good, and the only thing that I would replace if I were to put that motor back in were the tensioners, they were soft and weak. That was at 200k on the motor. I still have it as a back up, disassembled but would probably put it back together if needed.

 

[Scooby0048]

So today, I checked to see if the injectors were getting the fire signal from PCM and they all worked like they were supposed to. I did not take each injector out as that would require the intake plenum to be removed and I do not have the time for that right now. Maybe tonight.

I did a Ford ECM reset just so I could start fresh. Got it up to operating temp by driving around do get the ECM to relearn hoping maybe that would help. No go. I can smell what smells like heavy exhaust fumes when I get out of the vehicle.

I get back home and run the scanner.
P0302 again
a new one P0207 (Cylinder 7 Injector Circuit Malfunction)

and the 171 / 174 again.

So, if the #7 injector were faulty, what should the plug look like when removed and, does a problem with #7 contribute to the constant #2 misfire.

 

[Larryjb]

Does it drive normally if you unplug the MAF? The result of this test may narrow what to look for.

If it drives normally with the MAF disconnected it suggests that then is a computer or sensor issue. If you have the same problem, that suggests some other mechanical issue.

 

[Scooby0048]

Does it drive normally if you unplug the MAF? The result of this test may narrow what to look for.

If it drives normally with the MAF disconnected it suggests that then is a computer or sensor issue. If you have the same problem, that suggests some other mechanical issue.

When I unplugged the MAF there was no noticable change in the roughness. Upon reattaching the plug it stumbled a little more but idled back up quickly. I did not take the vehicle for a drive while the MAF was unplugged so I cannot comment on driveability. The MAF was only unplugged during idle.

 

[Scooby0048]

Checked the resistance on the injectors

#1-11.4
#2- 11.2
#3- 11.4
#4- 11.4
#5- 11.3
#6- 11.4
#7- 11.4
#8- 11.5

So they all seem to be ok. Any more suggestions?

 

[Scooby0048]

Voltage at each pigtail is 11.8v KOEO.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Violet wire on each injector is supply voltage from Fuse #44 (15 amp) in the Battery Junction Box. If your battery voltage is 11.8, then you have a voltage supply issue.

 

[boominXplorer]

I'd swap #2 injector with another cylinder to rule it out. Then I would pop the valve cover and take a peek since it's pretty easy on the 3v. It's either lack of air, fuel or spark causing the missfire.

11.8v isn't too concerning. With key on, radio on and blower motor running it's where any truck would be in 3 minutes without a brand new battery. A voltage drop test should be done but I don't think the 11.8v reading has anything to do with the big issue (#2 miss).

 

[boominXplorer]

Here's a pic of a f150 w/165k I did about 18 months ago. Follower on left center bearing is heavily worn. Follower on right center bearing wore just enough to kick off the tip of the valve and wedge into the cam (unlucky situation). Ended up having to swap the head and #1 piston from valve damage. Hopefully not your issue but it's possible. This is a pic of a 5.4 engine but it uses the same heads/cams/followers ect.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Boomin -

What would you say caused that wear and failure ? Dirty oil ?

 

[Scooby0048]

Violet wire on each injector is supply voltage from Fuse #44 (15 amp) in the Battery Junction Box. If your battery voltage is 11.8, then you have a voltage supply issue.

11.8v isn't too concerning. With key on, radio on and blower motor running it's where any truck would be in 3 minutes without a brand new battery.

I wasn't too concerned with the voltage either seeing as the truck was not running and I had it in the KOEO for quite a while.

Follower on left center bearing is heavily worn. Follower on right center bearing wore just enough to kick off the tip of the valve and wedge into the cam (unlucky situation).

I completely forgot these engines use the roller bearing cam follower and not regular rocker arms. It didn't occur to me even though you asked me in an earlier post, until I saw your picture of the follower failures on these engines. When I pull the valve cover off this weekend, if I see a follower just lying in there, would there be a way to tell if it caused more damage like in your picture without pulling the head?

I have a feeling since my #2 misfire won't go away that it is mechanical. I did hear what sounded like a stuck lifter but it went away after an oil change using the recommended Motorcraft oil and filter.

 

[boominXplorer]

Boomin -

What would you say caused that wear and failure ? Dirty oil ?

Combination of exteneded oil change intervals and hard miles. The truck also has 37" tires putting an extra strain on the engine.

I had an 09 f150 in the shop that had a bad follower about a year ago. It had nice clean oil and only 80k. Guy traded it in because ford priced him a new engine instead of fixing follower. It was a very loud tap though, definitely sounded worse than it was. It had some scraping on the edges of the cam lobe but wasn't bad enough to replace. Threw a new follower and lash adjuster in on that 1 cyl and it ran like new.

 

[boominXplorer]

Since your truck runs still and doesn't make any crazy noise I'd assume the valve / pistons are good. They can definitely kick out and cause damage. I haven't seen a broken valve spring but it's always possible too as I've seen it a few times on the 4.0 v6.

Ford racing sells the 24 lash adjuster and follower set for around $300. It's the way to go if you have to tear into it. They are the same ones as stock, just at a really good price for the complete set.

 

[boominXplorer]

Did you resolve the #7 miss by plugging the injector connection in all the way? Just to make sure you do know #2 is the second one back on the passenger side right? While your poking around check all your rubber vacuum elbow and evap hoses for dry rot.

 

[Scooby0048]

Did you resolve the #7 miss by plugging the injector connection in all the way? Just to make sure you do know #2 is the second one back on the drivers side right? While your poking around check all your rubber vacuum elbow and evap hoses for dry rot.

#7 is sporadic, might have been a fluke. #2 is DRIVER's side?

I was hoping that I could get away with just replacing 1-3 followers and lash adjusters.

 

[boominXplorer]

Oops I ment passenger, let me edit that.

1-4 passenger side
5-8 driver side

The injector code is most likely an issue with the plug most likely the clip is broken. Try to fasten a zip tie around the injector and plug to keep it tight.

 

[Scooby0048]

Oops I ment passenger, let me edit that.

1-4 passenger side
5-8 driver side

The injector code is most likely an issue with the plug most likely the clip is broken. Try to fasten a zip tie around the injector and plug to keep it tight.

HAHA yeah I didn't want to call you out on the cylinder numbering but...I would have been an even bigger idiot if I had been checking the wrong plugs and cylinders all along. I'm off today so I am going to swap out the injectors just to be sure but the clip on #2 latches really well. The valve cover is going to have to wait til the weekend since wouldn't ya know, the parts store is out of my valve cover gasket.