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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
Thats just check engine light. To get into 4x4 low I just took the two wires that went to the neutral switch and shorted them together.. now it thinks I'm always in neutral.
~Mark
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My diagram shows its the Red/Lt Blue wire and the Pink wire in the connector on the transmission. Those two wires get connected when you in Park or Neutral. If you connect them together it thinks your in park/neutral.
I have a 94 m50d in my 91 and have had no issues or need for the resistors and so on that everyone talks about.
All I did was unplug the auto harness from the engine harness and plug in the m5od harness at the same place .
I have a manual tcase so no prob with 4lo but every thing else is just fine.
The clutch assembly I used my 91 bracket with a pedal assembly from a 92 ranger complete with the master cylinder which bolts right up to the hole provided in the firewall.
You will need a new starter because the manual one is about 1/4 inch shorter than the auto one.
Your drive shafts if you have'nt already connected them will just bolt up.
Same with the tcase.
I also changed my steering column ,not because I had to but just to get rid of the auto shifter and while I was at it I got the small blackout piece for instrument panel gear indicator from the same ranger as the pedals.
Ford does list 3 different slave cylinders and fluid lines for these years but they all seem to compatable with each other however that being said my clutch engages fairly close to the top of the stroke so there may be a difference in travel.
I have just about 20,000 kms on this setup and have had no issues whatsoever
I have a 94 m50d in my 91 and have had no issues or need for the resistors and so on that everyone talks about.
All I did was unplug the auto harness from the engine harness and plug in the m5od harness at the same place .
I have a manual tcase so no prob with 4lo but every thing else is just fine.
The clutch assembly I used my 91 bracket with a pedal assembly from a 92 ranger complete with the master cylinder which bolts right up to the hole provided in the firewall.
You will need a new starter because the manual one is about 1/4 inch shorter than the auto one.
Your drive shafts if you have'nt already connected them will just bolt up.
Same with the tcase.
I also changed my steering column ,not because I had to but just to get rid of the auto shifter and while I was at it I got the small blackout piece for instrument panel gear indicator from the same ranger as the pedals.
Ford does list 3 different slave cylinders and fluid lines for these years but they all seem to compatable with each other however that being said my clutch engages fairly close to the top of the stroke so there may be a difference in travel.
I have just about 20,000 kms on this setup and have had no issues whatsoever
Have you checked for codes recently? I didn't notice my resister died until I did a code check (for something else) and it failed the self test.. It wasn't throwing a CEL (unlike it did when I first did the conversion) but it still shows up in the list of codes when I pull them.
I have'nt checked but I also have had no indication to check and check engine light is working.
It will come on if I blow off a vacum line or start with the intake disconnected etc.
Really the only problem I had was the starter ,It would'nt disengage because of length
which I solved with a spacer till I bought a new one.
I have'nt checked but I also have had no indication to check and check engine light is working.
It will come on if I blow off a vacum line or start with the intake disconnected etc.
Really the only problem I had was the starter ,It would'nt disengage because of length
which I solved with a spacer till I bought a new one.
I'm not geting a Check engine light either, but if I pull the codes I do have a code for the missing solenoids. What I don't know is if that affects the "Tune" of the EEC. If it doesn't affect the tune (go into limp mode etc) then having the extra code in the EEC won't matter since the only time you will see it is when you pull the codes (Key on engine off test is what shows the missing solenoids).
I see
My performance seems to be just fine.
The closest thing to limp mode I have seen was each of the 3 times I blew up the a4ld HAHA which of coarse is why it's now a manual.
Performance wise I get 19/20 mpg on 33's on the highway so seems things are happy.
I am going to do a similar swap. I do know that the camshafts are slightly different. The factory manual engines have a slightly different valve timing. I have read that changing a factory auto setup to manual is no problem (except for ECU and pedals etc.) However putting an auto in a factory manual truck, is not recomended, without changeing the cam. Most rebuilt 4.0 engines should have the auto cam installed, or the rebuilder will ask you if your application is manual or auto.
I think Ford did this to give the manual trucks a little more pep, for the sport package. I don't really know the reason.
