Axle width????

[Robb]

I actually prefer the idea of using a D30 if I do this in my garage. If it is built for me they want to use the 44.

Tire size would be ideal to maintain at 33" but 35" if I have to much wheel well showing.

Gears would be kept at 4.56 as that is what I am running currently and don't want to change again.

IMHO, with a max tire size of 35, and max low r&p of 4.56, while trying to maintain stock width and bolt pattern.........you are a perfect candidate for a Jeep YJ or XJ HP D30. The D30 r&p, although relatively small (and unpopular), IS strong while only running 4.56 gears. You can pick up the bare axle for very little $$$, and then pick up a used (or new if budget allows) set of Warn shafts with 297x joints, and that axle would be comparable to a LP D44 (if anyone wants to flame me for that statement, bring some facts, not just the typical "D44s are stronger" crap).

 

[dreamr]

I was hoping somebody would say that about the D30 as it is my preference and greatly simplifies the project as well as lowering the cost factor considerably.

So Am I correct in believing that the wranglers run leafs and the cherokee's run coils, or is that dependent upon the model year?

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Hmmm,,,,,,,,













I've gotta check the latest bank heists. Dreamr has way to much money.














I'm watching

 

[dreamr]

I've gotta check the latest bank heists. Dreamr has way to much money.

I wish I had more

But if I budget well I can spread this out over time and it won't seem like that much. Piece by piece things aren't that expensive. Especially if I don't have to pay for labor and fab work. At least no more expensive than a set of wheel bearings which are humming lightly (220 each), and CV axles (310 each) that will likely break one day with the bigger tires and TT.

A solid axle is so much less money to maintain and less worries.
If I had the TTB I wouldn't worry about it all. This IFS is CRAP!

Now if I can just get started and still get in my garage when done.
Though it will likely not happen till at least winter, I would like to start on the axle build-up at least.
I have 80" of clearance from floor to the garage door at it's lowest point.
My truck currently sits at about 74.5" at it's tallest point, so I should be OK after I pull the body lift.

What a waste of money having got it to it's current point only to start tearing it all apart again. Maybe I won't but we'll see...................
If I do, you should let me put the body lift on yours Phil

 

[Con Seann3ry]

There are a lot of fullsize trucks...........stuck between the trees

Hahah, he's not kidding. NW trails are TIGHT I've only seen one group of fullsizes up at TSF where I wheel mostly and they were struggling. I feel like my 4 door is too big for a lot of the trails I go on, wish i had a sport for wheeling but need the four door for other stuff.

 

[Jefe]

Another Q do they make an adapter that can drop a 5 on 5.5 to 5 on 4.5 so I can keep my current wheels If I choose this route??? I know I just contraindicted my last post but I am pondering as I said.

If I'm reading this right, You cannot use a 5x4.5 rim on a 5x5.5 front end, as the hub will not fit through the center of the wheel.
Now the other way around you can do. My rear end is still 5x4.5 with a 1" spacer/adapter and 5x5.5 rims

Robb, the reason I went with the D44 over the D30 is not the diff strength. I agree that with 33's, 4.56's and locker a HP D30 would be fine. Its the rest of the axle that I didn't like. The D30 knuckles are much smaller, the whole hub assembly (which I was trying to get away from by going solid), the outer stub axle is tiny compared to a D44 (which is what Jeeps start breaking when they lock the front), and the lack of manual hubs, so that you could still run the truck if you broke a u-joint, etc. Yes, most of that is upgradable, but at what cost.

So Am I correct in believing that the wranglers run leafs and the cherokee's run coils, or is that dependent upon the model year?

Depends on the year. 98+ Wrangers (TJ) runs springs but is LP D30, pre98 wranglers (YJ) run leaves & HP D30. Cherokees (XJ) are coils and HP D30 till 99 and LP 00-02. And the Grand Cherokee (ZJ) is coiled LP D30 (I never understood that one )

Oh and the original question. ~58" or so (both front and rear) Any suitible jeep axle is about ~60"

 

[dreamr]

So Jefe, explain the hub assembly on the D30.

One of my main reasons for thinking about this is to eliminate the whole hub/bearing assembly as well as the CV's. The extra travel is obviously part of the reason, but the stronger parts are the driving force. If I still have to deal with the bloody expensive auto hub/bearing assembly mess then I'll go for the 44. Then again I like the idea of having an axle that can work with my control trac system without locking hubs. I still use auto on really wet days (which is frequent here). Note too that I really don't wheel that hard, this rig gets used, but not like yours

I do need to do more research, but the more I read the more confused I get. It's easier to just ask all of you who have already walked this road and learned from experience.

As to the axle, then I guess I want a 95-99 (95 I believe is when the better u-joints were used?) XJ axle and I'll need to space the rear a bit to even it up?

 

[Jefe]

So Jefe, explain the hub assembly on the D30.

Same type sealed assembly as you currently have. I believe they may be cheaper, but still, its all or nothing. I'll take my $50 worth of bearings (that I can grease as I please) any day.

 

[dreamr]

Same type sealed assembly as you currently have. I believe they may be cheaper, but still, its all or nothing. I'll take my $50 worth of bearings (that I can grease as I please) any day.

Hmm there's a few more points to going with the 44.
I too would much rather grease the bearings on occasion than dish out the cash for the sealed units.

 

[dreamr]

edit: moved to new thread as this was a question about width not my new querry.