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Battery relocation wiring
- Thread starter danlong
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danlong
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mrboyle, thank you so much for actually listening to what I was saying, thinking about the question, and replying with an answer rather than trying to talk me into doing something different that defeats a large part of what I was intending in the first place!!!
huskyfan, I can't move my w/s washer tank to that side, as I already stated, I have a rather large cone filter sitting right where the battery used to reside.
I'm not trying to come across as an a--hole here, I just feel like many people refuse to try and think outside the box sometimes.....
huskyfan, I can't move my w/s washer tank to that side, as I already stated, I have a rather large cone filter sitting right where the battery used to reside.
I'm not trying to come across as an a--hole here, I just feel like many people refuse to try and think outside the box sometimes.....
danlong
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On a side note, I found a battery made by Interstate, part no# MTP-91, that has a vent tube that can be routed outside the vehicle. It's made to fit late model BMW's (thanks again, mrboyle 
), has a CCA of 700 (maybe 750), and costs about $95 with a 85 month warranty. From my measurements, it should fit almost perfectly where the factory sub is intended for.
), has a CCA of 700 (maybe 750), and costs about $95 with a 85 month warranty. From my measurements, it should fit almost perfectly where the factory sub is intended for.
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danlong said:
Ok, let's see if I am thinking out side the box enough for you:
Try this on for size, correct about the Optima batrteries need ventalation and you can mount them in the trunk but the case needs to be vented outside the vehicle. (just bought a new red top for $35)
"Thinks outside the box" so what makes 12 volt and has loads of cranking amps and can be mounted inside a vehicle that won't cause any ill effects?
Well what is kept indoors and is charged/used inside?
Wheel chair batteries!!!!!!!!
Now they won't support a high output stereo system, but if you want to relocate that puppy inside the vehicle and to the back without any ill effects this is the key!
But they will start you vehicle and only wiegh 13.5lbs. recharge the same way regular car batteries do and can be mounted in ANY confguration, upside down, sideways, ETC.
And they wiegh so much less, great for racers/wheelers, looking to lighten the load.
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danlong
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That's great! I wasn't familiar with those, nor had I even thought about them. Unfortunately, I want a lot of reserve power, as I'll be loaded with electronics (A/V, lights, alarm, possible carputer, etc) and don't drive my truck everyday since I have a company car.
My concern isn't even about the battery though, I asked a question about wiring a battery in the rear, and pretty much all I got was people telling me other places to put it..... but thank you very much, I look forward to the write-up!
My concern isn't even about the battery though, I asked a question about wiring a battery in the rear, and pretty much all I got was people telling me other places to put it..... but thank you very much, I look forward to the write-up!
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Yeah I guess I over looked that wiring thing you really needed, basically wire it up the same exept for using longer cables, if you like I'll get you a Brog Warner part number for a box of battery cable cut to length, wold prolly cost you about $80 but would do your whole vehicle with some left over.
BTW, how did the drop springs work in your 93?
No problems with alinement, or ride quality?
I got some ideas up my sleeve, might be coming into a 2dr 2wd 5spd sport here kinda soon
BTW, how did the drop springs work in your 93?
No problems with alinement, or ride quality?
I got some ideas up my sleeve, might be coming into a 2dr 2wd 5spd sport here kinda soon
danlong
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Part of my problem with wiring it up as before comes from the fact that it had been somewhat rewired by a previous owner, and they had done a really crappy job. As far as the cable goes, no need, I've got a buddy who runs a stereo shop that can get me 2 ga. at cost, if not free.
About the springs..... I have yet to actually drive the truck since they've been installed. I had a set of the Steeda 2" drop spring on my 94 Ranger, and they rode pretty rough, and had my 3 degree alignment cams maxed out. The camber was OK, but the caster was still off, so I had a bit of bumpsteer. You also have to keep in mind, our trucks only have about 4" of travel between the bumpstops and the frame in the front, and you're about to cut that in half. Needless to say, I soon swapped them out for a set of DJM dream beams (3" drop). Check out my other post in the Modifications forum about using F150 spring perches on a 2wd, you'll see what I'm working on now, and can maybe give some insight.
Thanks
Dan
About the springs..... I have yet to actually drive the truck since they've been installed. I had a set of the Steeda 2" drop spring on my 94 Ranger, and they rode pretty rough, and had my 3 degree alignment cams maxed out. The camber was OK, but the caster was still off, so I had a bit of bumpsteer. You also have to keep in mind, our trucks only have about 4" of travel between the bumpstops and the frame in the front, and you're about to cut that in half. Needless to say, I soon swapped them out for a set of DJM dream beams (3" drop). Check out my other post in the Modifications forum about using F150 spring perches on a 2wd, you'll see what I'm working on now, and can maybe give some insight.
Thanks
Dan
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jgilbs said:
I never said put it in a box!
But you'll have ppl charging these in thier house.
And most ppl that relocate thier batteries to the rear of thier vehicle don't put them in air tight boxes, they mainly use the standard battery box for a boat!
This is the safest way to relocate a battery into your vehicle.
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"Orientation/Placement/Transport- Due to the products' mechanical design, GENESIS can be mounted and operated in any position, an atractive feature for less accessible areas.
GENESIS offer UL 94V-0 non-halongenated flame-retardent packaging, thus allowing the mounting systems in sensitive areas and human enviroments.
http://www.trolleyenterprises.com/cd/docs/section10_batteries.pdf
Non-sealed lead-acid batteries contain a liquid sulphuric acid electrolyte. If the battery casing is split, the acid can leak out. In batteries is it quite concentrated and will easily burn the skin and clothing. Therefore, the RW rules state that liquid-electrolyte batteries of this sort are not allowed. Appropriate SLA batteries are the only type allowed (apart from the much more expensive NiCd or NiMH types).
All lead-acid batteries produce hydrogen and oxygen during the recharging process. This production is increased if overcharging occurs. Sealed designs cause recombination of the oxygen at the same rate is produced, therefore eliminating the explosive mixture. Hydrogen which is produced will permeate plastic containers and as long as the sealed battery is not in a sealed small area, the hydrogen will harmlessly dissipate into the atmosphere. It is always good practice to allow for ventilation even with sealed batteries because of the possibility of a charger failure causing abnormal charge rates. If this happens, the battery will vent to prevent pressure build up. Another precaution is to prevent short circuits of the battery terminals. This can cause high heat and potential fire hazard.
GENESIS offer UL 94V-0 non-halongenated flame-retardent packaging, thus allowing the mounting systems in sensitive areas and human enviroments.
http://www.trolleyenterprises.com/cd/docs/section10_batteries.pdf
Non-sealed lead-acid batteries contain a liquid sulphuric acid electrolyte. If the battery casing is split, the acid can leak out. In batteries is it quite concentrated and will easily burn the skin and clothing. Therefore, the RW rules state that liquid-electrolyte batteries of this sort are not allowed. Appropriate SLA batteries are the only type allowed (apart from the much more expensive NiCd or NiMH types).
All lead-acid batteries produce hydrogen and oxygen during the recharging process. This production is increased if overcharging occurs. Sealed designs cause recombination of the oxygen at the same rate is produced, therefore eliminating the explosive mixture. Hydrogen which is produced will permeate plastic containers and as long as the sealed battery is not in a sealed small area, the hydrogen will harmlessly dissipate into the atmosphere. It is always good practice to allow for ventilation even with sealed batteries because of the possibility of a charger failure causing abnormal charge rates. If this happens, the battery will vent to prevent pressure build up. Another precaution is to prevent short circuits of the battery terminals. This can cause high heat and potential fire hazard.
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