Battery replacement?

[429CJ-3X2]

Your 1.5 amp charger charges slowly enough that it wouldn't cause bubbling in the cells.

Glad you got it figured out!!!

 

[markaz]

Your 1.5 amp charger charges slowly enough that it wouldn't cause bubbling in the cells.

Glad you got it figured out!!!

I wondered the same thing myself but had no foundation of knowledge to really say that's the reason. Thanks for dropping the nation of loose connections into my head, whether internal or external.

Now if you know anything about misfires/hesitation and computer codes for a 2002 Taurus 3.0 DOHC, then we're really in business.

Thanks so much!!

 

[Anime]

Nice! Not aware of that.

Almost better than the warranty on the DieHard Platinums is that you can shoot the battery with an elephant gun and still use it to start the truck.

[vimeo]26912385[/vimeo]


Great that you got it fixed and running, but there's still something to be said for throwing in a more reliable modern battery.

 

[L.A.X]

Duralast battery? Take it back to Autozone. They will test and charge for free. If defective, might be under warranty. I work for Autozone by the way

 

[markaz]

Duralast battery? Take it back to Autozone. They will test and charge for free. If defective, might be under warranty. I work for Autozone by the way

Thanks! Is the quarter-sized sticker on the battery the date of purchase or manufacture?

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Date of manufacture - kinda. It really is more related to when it is expected to be on the retailer's shelf. A sticker with J-13 or 10/13 would indicate a build date of October 2013, but more likely it was actually built in August. If you don't have your receipt they will likely use that as the installation date, assuming they honor a warranty without the receipt.

I worked for a battery wholesaler for 9 years delivering batteries to our dealers. We would get new batteries with a factory date code of the coming month, or sometimes even the second month out.

 

[L.A.X]

If you don't have your receipt, the parts counter can look up your information by your phone number

 

[awood]

Had an old mechanic tell me one time that if there's enough corrosion, or a bad enough connection on a battery terminal, then the connection might be good enough for a high amp draw during cranking, but not good enough for a low amp re-charge. Seemed reasonable to me.

 

[SoNic67]

That's exactly backwards.

 

[awood]

I mostly agree with you, especially if we're talking voltage drop (not amps). But I still think if conditions are just right in a dirty battery terminal, enough current will still flow to crank. Voltage may drop enough to cause other problems, like giving a false indication that the battery is bad. It's just that cranking usually lasts for only a couple of seconds, and conditions must be just right.

My reasoning might be wrong, but I've seen quite often (at the shop where I used to work years ago) where a customer thought they had a bad battery, but only had corroded terminals. Their alternator/generator was still good. Something was keeping the battery from getting re-charged, but they could still start the car after plugging in a charger. I could have sold them a new battery, but never did. I'd say that 90% of the time it was just dirty terminals.

But then again...95% of all statistics are made up!