bent front axle....grrr :(

[mr cribb]

I picked up a 91 4x4 a few weeks ago. I noticed that the front axle is bent towards the body by a few inches.

I determined this by measuring the distance from tires to fender.

I've not messed with one of these TTB front ends. I've read about lift kits and cutting rivets.

What am I removing to replace the bent beam?

If there is a thread on this I didn't find it in my searches... sorry.

 

[FR-425]

If the beam is bent I would not recommend trying to straighten it, that would "work heat" the steel and make it very weak.

Unless your equipped to cut, patch and weld to correct the bend.

Replacement would be the way to go.

If you plan to lift to 4" or more a cut and turned set from BTF fabricating may be the answer for you.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=312831

$200 exchange. or $400 out right.

This way you have your replacement beams; ready for 4"+ lift.

Very fair price. A complete TTB from the bone yards run from $200-350

You'll need to swap over all your original parts; perfect time to replace the ball joints.

If you ship him your core, you only send the beams. No diff, no knuckles.

If it is just the RA and or mount you can get those new real cheap on the ol' eBay

 

[mr cribb]

I hadn't considered looking at the radius arm or mount. That would be a lot better than pulling another axle from the boneyard. The pull it yard I went to would sell one for about $125.

I've been driving my 2wd for all these years so I'm not knowledgeable about the 4wd.

 

[FR-425]

You will be soon enough!

As far as the nuts and bolts of the front end, a Chilton manual is gonna pay for it's self real fast. If you already have one it will cover both 2wd and 4wd.

Not real complicated, just BIG bolts. You may have to invest in a couple of large wrenches, an impact will make the day go much better. A grinder for the rivets on the RA brackets and standard hand tools will get it done. No spring compressor is needed, you can droop it out and pull those by hand.

Start soaking everything down with WD40 or PBblaster today and again in a couple more days. The more the better.

If you end up just replacing the RA mount's and the arm, put the arms on the axle first and install the mounts last.

Again; Put the RA mounts on LAST. you'll see... .. .

 

[mr cribb]

If I could post pics through photobucket from my phone I would show you the severely bent radius arm mount. The arm looks fine.

However, I will probably pick up a couple arms as well as a better mount.

Thanks for the heads up on checking for the RA mount.

 

[mr cribb]

I have the Chilton and Haynes manuals. I got them for the head gasket job I did last year on my other truck.

 

[FR-425]

 

[mr cribb]

So not only is the radius arm mount twisted, but so is the frame.

The nut came off the RA very easily, but it didn't move when beat with a hammer. Another note is where the RA connects to the axle is where the frame is bent upwards.

The 91 will be no more, but I will pull everything off the bent frame and put it on my 92.

So I will be going from a 2wd to 4wd on the 92. Thanks to the 91 I have the 5 speed transmission. Saturday I picked up a BW 1350 manual t-case to replace the 1354E t-case.

I got the shifter and front driveshaft as well.

Looks like "personality disorder" isn't done yet.

The 91 donated passenger side front quarter panel and all 4 doors from a run in with a guardrail my wife did 6 months ago. I only needed 2 doors but I had access to 4 matching so I could not see any reason not to do all four.

 

[cloaked_chaos]

You could always just add an extended radius arm kit which moves the rear mounts back near the transmission crossmember. You don't even have to lift it.