Best locker/limited slip for Dana 35??????

[Positive Vibes]

I did a search but there are tons of threads. I want to put a limited slip in front (trutrac I think). What does everyone else suggest. I can't afford a ARB unless I wait another couple of months (should I). Or would you guys install something in the rear first. Any input or suggestions is appreciated!. Thanks people!
So I guess my questions are:
1. front or rear
2. If front what type and brand.
3 If rear what type and brand.

I am on a budget so price does matter. Also unless the install was basic I would have a shop do it. Again any input, suggestions or feed back would be great!

 

[Jason_25]

Definitely go with lockers front and rear. Why settle for anything less? No reason to have a limited slip upfront unless it snows where you are (I doubt it).

Selectables are always best but they are very pricey. I think the powertrax no-slip provides the best overall value in a rear application as long as you don't mind the added backlash in the system. I think what you should do now is go with the powertrax in the rear and wait and save for the ARB up front. I wouldn't trust a non-selectable front locker for safety and maneuvarability reasons.

 

[Positive Vibes]

Thanks for the reply.

I was thinking a front limited slip because I would only see it when in 4 wheel drive. I also have manual hubs so I could select it when in 4 wheel drive. What ya think?

 

[Jason_25]

Yes that is a possibility but keep in mind, when you lift a tire with a limited slip, all the torque on that axle goes to the tire that is off the ground. The TTB isn't exactly an awesome traveling suspension, ya know?

 

[RangerX]

I vote for a LS up front. Sure, nothing beats a real locker, but I fool people every time I wheel. They think I have lockers, I have two LS's. I would go with the Trutrac, I've read reviews that call it "almost a locker". Put a 'soft' locker in the rear, and you'll be golden.

Putting ANYTHING in the front diff, though, will be fairly costly, due to the need to basically disassemble the whole front end. If you are able, tear it down yourself and bring the diff to the shop, and save big on labor costs.

 

[Michael]

I vote for a real locker in front and back. You will sometimes have to make a two point turn versus just swinging around , but the advantages way out weigh the drawbacks as far as I'm concerned.

 

[Positive Vibes]

RangerX: How expensive would installing one in the front vs. one in the rear? I thought installing a L/S in the front would be the cheapest way to go??

Michael: I know having a true locker in front and rear is the way to go but I'm on a budget and this is my daily driver. What lockers would you install if you could do it your way and dont say ARB because I can't afford them. They are too much dinero. But I could always save and do it down the road.

Jason_25: I do have 5.5" lift and with the sway's disconnected it flexes pretty nicely.

 

[Brian1]

My explorer is a daily driver and I am also on a small budget. I went with a detroit easy locker for the front and stayed with the stock l/s in the rear because it was still performing well. It ran about $260 to my door with a lifetime warranty from drive train warehouse. I am installing it myself tomorrow or thursday. I've had it for about a month and am finally getting around to installing it. I think it would be cheaper to install a lunch box locker because you retain the stock carrier with it. Hope this helps.

 

[RangerX]

Originally posted by Positive Vibes
RangerX: How expensive would installing one in the front vs. one in the rear? I thought installing a L/S in the front would be the cheapest way to go??

I can't tell you a price, I had mine done years ago as a package that included gears, lift, and tires. But in the rear, you just need to remove the diff cover and slide the axles out a little. In front, you have to disconnect the driveshaft, disassemble the hubs to slide out the axles, and then remove the diff housing from the I-beam. Mucho labor!

 

[William Schumacher]

Wolfgang Tibus has the locker for the front of the 2nd gen. X's,but $859. ouch ?,on the website they say starting at $6and change. ,but $859. is too much for me.
anyone know when the Eaton unit will be out ?
and will that be just as much $ ?
thanks,

 

[94EBexplorer]

you can tweak your stock |LS unit for more FT lbs break away.... i say locker in the front... i mean when i put mine in 4x4 im really 4x4ing.... and i want all the power to the ground i can... there is also a checp and easy trip to install locker in the front D35 without droppin everything but youll need help.....

 

[Positive Vibes]

94EBexplorer: You said there is a trick to installing a locker in the d35 without dropping everything. Would you mind sharing this info or is it a secret???

 

[94EBexplorer]

jack the front of the truck up from the front of the frame so the suspension hangs.

if you have 2 people ( cause the pumpkin is heavy ) youll disconnect your drive shaft.... pull out the slip yoke. undo all your bolts that hold the pumkin in and lift in up and slid in out on an angle ( you may have to have a jack under the drive side TTB to adjust the angle). install your locker.... also good time to replace axel seals. seal it all back up... when you go to connect your drive shaft back up make sure its alligned correctly or you will have driveline vibrations. this way you dont have to drop the whole suspension and saves tons of work just make sure you wipe away all the oil so you get a good seal when you seal it back up.

 

[410Fortune]

OKay here's what I have found.

Off road a real locker up front is the only way to go, unless you are a finess driver a L/S is good but a locker is better.
If you live somewhere with snow then you want a selectable locker up front (ARB) if you dont and you put it in 4x4 on the snowy roads you wont be able to turn hardly at all.

I say save up for the ARB, I have been waiting forever to be able to install an ARB up front, and finally now the day is here! It will be worth it.

 

[Big Bear Bob]

Can you improve the stock limited slip without replacing it, or dumping alot of cash into it??

 

[410Fortune]

After talking with the people who are going to be rebuilding mine when I re-gear my 8.8 to 4.10. He says it is a myth that you can add additional clutches to the factory limited slip for additional grip. He did say that you can re-arrange the order of the clutch's and shims to improve the grip however. Or sometyhing of that nature. I seem to recall reading a How to about this, I bet it's at therangerstation.com.

They are charging me $25 to rebuild/improve the L/S on top of the $$$$ to have the ring and pinion installed.

 

[94EBexplorer]

yes you shim the clutches.... i have done this to mine.

 

[Positive Vibes]

Well I guess I will start saving for an ARB. Thanks for the input guys. Next question. When I do get an ARB would you guys install it in the front or the rear? One or the other because I won't be able to afford both.

 

[94EBexplorer]

if you have LS i would put the arb in front.... most definatly... plus its also selective..... good for front... if not to do an arb in rear also... you can always do a lunchbox style locker

 

[Positive Vibes]

94EBexplorer: Nope, I don't have and LS. I'm totally open. Lunch box style locker??? Whatcha talkin bout Willis?