Best System for under $500 !!!

[RoadEnforcer]

Originally posted by LudusHatesReese
I THINK THE BEST WAY TO GET STEREO EQUIPMENT IS TO DRIVE AROUND PARKING LOTS AND FIND A CAR WITH A BUMPIN SYSTEM AND JACK THEIR STUFF. IT'S FREE AND EASY.

Really thats a j@ck@ss comment even though it was meant for humor. I can't park anywhere iffy like I used to because of people that feel that way. No offense to you or nothing, i know it was meant for humor I just felt like saying something.

 

[Fly Girl E]

Ok fellas, I didn't want this post to get out of hand and turn into a war zone. Let's just keep it fun and continue exchanging ideas. I appreciate all ideas and remember we're all in this hobby together. =)

 

[RoadEnforcer]

Where is it getting bad in this thread? I dont see anyone fighting or anything.....

 

[Mike 92 XLT]

Fly Girl

Yup, your door speakers are JBL as well.

Mike

 

[chinsk]

As a first in any replacement of an explorer audio system, i'd definatley recommend replacing the headunit. That made a huge difference in sound quality. Here is a map of the road I took and how much it cost.

First: Replaced headunit with Sony CDX-C5000X ($199)
Second: Replaced door speakers with infinity Reference 5x7's and wired around the factory amp ($99x2)
Third: Sony 150x2 amp ($199), Rockford Fosgate 10 inch HE ($109.99), Q-Logic Sealed Enclosure ($79), Rockford Fosgate 8 guage amp wiring kit ($59)

Total = $843.99

It seems like a lot but I spread the purchases out over a couple of years so the hit wouldnt be as bad. As it stands I am VERY happy with the way the ole x sounds.

 

[Curtis]

I agree with chinsk
Spread the cost over time. Im in my system for about the same cost. $834. Its a newbie system but I bought all my pieces over about 6 months. The Headunit was the first and it made a big difference by itself. Im not finished with it yet but for now I am totally pleased with the results.

 

[Fly Girl E]

T.y. for your suggestion Chinsk. I already bought a new Kenwood KDC519 HU ($250), and a new Kenwood 10-disc changer ($200) in Feb. So the hit wont be too bad. For now I think I am looking to get 2 new 5x7 -3 way speakers for the front (which I will power off the HU -50x4W), a new 400 W-2 channel amp and two new 12" subs. I just need to figure out which brands i want to get. I think i should change out the front speakers because I am concerned the bass will drown out the highs. I mostly listen to music like drowning pool and linkin park, so bass is still of an importance. Does that sound like a good start guys?? =)

Here are some speakers I am thinking of:

*5x7 3 way speakers= Pioneer

*12" Fosgate Punch HE

*12" Kicker Comp

 

[Big Green]

Okay how about this, 4 Kicker 5x7's, pioneer premier HU (I dont remember the model #) JVC KXS4500 4x50watt and 520 watt peak and a JL 12w0, all for around $400. And is one of the cleanest sounding system for the money. And it will hit pretty good too if you want it to.

 

[Casey C]

look at jensen speakers also. You can check them out at sears or wal mart. The 6.5's I got are good for $40 a pair. and don't limit yourself to 5x7s/6x8s because alot of speakers can fit that hole with a mounting braket. Just watch your depth and make sure they come with the mounting braket.

 

[ChuckyD]

Interior

if your not amping, stay with the same company as the HU, from what i have herd, they always sound better then other mismatched sets.

If your predominately listening to rock, i think you should go with 10's. i think that sound better then 12's.
3 10's in a sealed box
AMP

Does you HU have subwoofer out?

Oh yeah... Stay away from jensen.... Pure crap!!!

 

[Savage Wolf]

Originally posted by Fly Girl E
a new 400 W-2 channel amp and two new 12" subs.

*12" Fosgate Punch HE

*12" Kicker Comp

Ok, are you trying for a system to just listen to or a reason to need to dynamat the whole Explorer
I listen to everything from techo to old speed metal, so far (for the last 3 years) I've found that a really good single sub with a high quality amp is the best way to go, right now I have a 10" jl w0-4 sub in a sealed .60 cuft box, the sub was $99 new, amp is a Kenwood "600 watt" amp which is really about 200 rms when bridged at 4 ohms load, bass output is very clear, tight, and about equal to most mid qual amp/sub combos running 12" IMHO its not what you buy, but what you want out of it and how you put everything together, I have also found that the head units differ in how they use the sub pre-outs so depending on what is up front will make a big diffrence, for example i just did a install of a amp which is the same as what I am running in my truck, and we stuck my box in the other truck while I get the new box built, the same 10" jl that i use was putting out 2-3x more bass because the pioneer HU uses diffrent contols for the sub pre-outs my kenwood mp3-HU that i have doesnt have "sub contols" just a set of non-fading preouts for sub usage, so keep in mind to look for diffrent features on diffrent head units, amps and box setups to get what you are looking for, thats the biggest key to being happy with your system

examples in what I mean by looking for what you want:
my system is set up so it can handle fast bass and be clear just enough to know its there and give alittle feel to the music, but if I wanted to (and have tested) I could toss a 15" 2ohm sub in a sealed box and have a system that I would need to mat the whole truck and take off the rear wiper just to get the rattles to go away (lots of bass... too much bass for me)

Over anything I will recomend that you go for quality spent the big $$ on a really good amp, subs you can alway upgrade later if you have a system that can push them

/ramble off.... (been awake for 2 days now excuse anything that doesnt make any sense) and I'll try to get pics of the amp setup and sub if I have any pics of it...

 

[chinsk]

Thins brings a question up for me. I have a sony amp that claims 380 watts rms bridged into 4 ohms. Right now I have it bridged with a 10 inch RF punch HE which claims 200 watts RMS and 400 peak. Am I going to have issues here with blowin the sub?

 

[Savage Wolf]

Originally posted by chinsk
Thins brings a question up for me. I have a sony amp that claims 380 watts rms bridged into 4 ohms. Right now I have it bridged with a 10 inch RF punch HE which claims 200 watts RMS and 400 peak. Am I going to have issues here with blowin the sub?

shouldnt be a problem, long as you keep the amp gain down some and dont go too nuts with the bass setting and volume
My amp is the older model of the kenwood KAC-729s which is 300watts at 4ohm load when bridged, the JL 10W0-4 is rated at 125 watts rms and I havent cooked it yet and its been in my truck for a year now, as I said, just keep the gain down and dont try to get too happy with the bass (it is a 10" after all)

 

[chinsk]

I have the gain set at about half way with the 40hx boost halfway too. I got bass halfway on my deck with dbass setting 1 out of 3... sound cool?

EDIT:

Also, the amp does get hot. What is too hot? It has thermal protect so should I not worry bout it? This is my first install so I am just tryin to get all the little questions I have answered....

 

[Savage Wolf]

No idea on the gain settings or the heat, better to ask one of the guys here that knows audio more then I do
But here is a pic of what my install looks like in my truck (this isnt my truck though, same amp, and my sub/box) only diffrence is the trucks year, both Explorer sports


Dead Link Removed


(note, anyone saying I took their idea, my X has had the amp mounted there for the last, ummm 3+years )

 

[Fly Girl E]

Looks really clean Savage. Looks like you carpeted the board that you mounted your amp on?? looks nice! Do you have a grille or some type of cover so people don't see your amp?

 

[Casey C]

Originally posted by ChuckyD Oh yeah... Stay away from jensen.... Pure crap!!! [/B]

I'm not gonna deny that they aren't that great. jensen isn't competition quality. They are good for spending a little amount of money for a system that isn't going to be competition. I'm satisfied with mine, I just need the subs.

 

[RoadEnforcer]

I hear what Savage Wolf is saying, My rear wiper needs to get taken off.... the thing rattles like a mooo fooo! So does my left panel.

 

[Fly Girl E]

Ok guys here's what I bought today.

*(1) Koiiler XM-7676 2 Channel Mosfet Bridgable amp with a built in crossover. max power output 600w.

*(2) 12" Rockford Fosgate Punch HE
power range 50-200 watts RMS
peak power handling 400 watts

*Rockford Fosgate Punch 12" Bandpass box

All for the grand total of $350.

 

[Savage Wolf]

yeah no grill over that one yet, my truck has had the amp mounted in the same place for 3+ years now, but, mine is just bolted to the steel body support with no backing or anything, I'll be the first to admit that even though I love my '93 I beat the hell out of it and could care less about how the install looks right now long as the music plays and the radio works I'm happy, hell right now its got no motor, tranny or engine computer/harness and the radio still works lmao
another note about the mounting of that sized amp in there, the only way to get it out is to remove the whole inside panel... I'm pretty sure it would make stealing the amp quite a chore for anyone that would...

oh the install of the amp in the pic, I used Bigtigexplorer as the idea for the board, just modified the idea some
his install pics are Dead Link Removed