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Bitten by the (SAS) bug!

97-v8 has but he's running a D60 and whatever else is in the back combo (with larger caliper volumes). But you'll probably be fine since you're sticking to the original (or close to) brake setup.

That's true- he hasn't been around in a long time- I heard he rolled his rig :(

One good thing about my brakes is I already have some nice lines:

IMG_0671_Medium_.jpg


I hope the banjo bolt will fit through them- I'll have to modify the frame mount some, but it should work.
 



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My brakes work great and there is no low pressure feeling on inclines or declines. I've got stock '78 Bronco stuff up there. The bigger rotors and calipers definitely help.
 






The banjos for my chevy front brakes were 7/16" instead of 3/8(10mm).
 












That's true- he hasn't been around in a long time- I heard he rolled his rig

Oh wow didnt know!! I hope the body is alright.


Wow that is just to bad. I cannot believe that happened to such a nice and honest guy.:rolleyes:
 












LOL I dont even remember that.
 












Grrr- one of the hubs is egg shaped - the full time ring from the waggy axles wouldn't fit. :( The lip was a little bit bent, nothing major, I thought I'd straighten it and it'd all be good. I'm thinking of smashing on it a little with a press to bend it back into shape. A bad idea?

The other hub/rotor is fine though.

These things are getting hard to find- either people are still driving them or hauling them off.

The 88/89 F150 had six bolt knuckles on it :confused: I thought Fords used 5 stud knuckles only? Could I have used F150/ FSB spindles?
 






The TTB spindles are wrong. They will not allow the rotor to line up with the caliper bracket. It is off by about a quarter inch.
 






Ahh- I didn't know that, there are so many variables on D44's through the years.

Any suggestions as to how to fix a slightly egged hub? It's only at the end I'm pretty sure. I guess if I cracks, I haven't really lost anything.
 






Is it the hub or the lockout? If its just the lockout (the device that mechanically connects the outer axle shaft's splines to the inner splines of the hub), then I would just replace it. Trying to tweak a lockout back will probably just give you trouble down the road when either it doesnt engage, or doesnt disengage when you want it to.
 












Ooof -- that must have been a pretty big hit. Anyways, I would definitely try the clamping idea you have, but only to disassemble that end of the axle (primarily to get the "dog gear" out). I wouldn't run that hub for a long time cauz if a fracture shows up, it might make its way to the bearing and kaboom.
 






Ooof -- that must have been a pretty big hit. Anyways, I would definitely try the clamping idea you have, but only to disassemble that end of the axle (primarily to get the "dog gear" out). I wouldn't run that hub for a long time cauz if a fracture shows up, it might make its way to the bearing and kaboom.

Good point- I'm sure that hub is pretty hard, it's liable to fracture pretty easily.

Well, the yard wanted $75 a piece for these, I got them for $50 for both, so I guess I'm still OK just having one. Just have to find another.
 






Axle is stripped down, still need to remove the carrier and pinion though.

I cut off the shock brackets, the one leaf spring perch, a quick coat of primer to keep it from rusting over. I took it and used a heated pressure washer to get all the old grease and dirt off.

I got the ball joints out of the knuckles, I still need to wire brush them and get some primer on them.

Now to start collecting parts. Once I get the axle 100% ready (gears, ujoints, hubs, lockouts, wheels and tires) I'll cut all the IFS stuff out, stick the axle under there and start building the suspension. I can also measure for coilovers once I get the frame set to ride height.
 

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That is beautiful!
 









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Hubs found at Advance Auto for $59 each :thumbsup: Not the lockouts, the actual bearing hubs.

I now have cheby spindles, waggy brake calipers and pads, 78 F150 hubs, rotors soon to come.

I'm thinking about going with a trac-lock up front- I can use it to change carriers, run the "thin" ring gear. I'm going to set up my own gears on this one, no crush sleeves to fool with, the shims won't be too difficult I don't think. The disconnect side has a C clip holding the little bitty shaft in there. I don't know how that's going to affect things.

I measured today, I will only have room for 10" travel coilovers, but seeing how Jefe's rig flexed out with 14's, if I can get a similar result, I'll be happy.

The projected budget for this is now reaching $2500+ with a free axle :confused: :eek:
 






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