Bleeding Brake lines on my '91

[EScottH]

OK...

The first repair I am making to my '91 Eddie Bauer is replacing the driver's side rear brake line which someone had installed too close to the manual brake cable and it rubbed through the brake line.

I bought a new length of brake line and used a pipe bender to route it around obstacles... I don't think I will have that problem any more

My question is this... should I just completely drain the brake system and bleed all the lines or just the one side? Can I get away with just this one side for now? I plan on replacing all the pads in the next few months and was going to replace the bleeder valves on all four points because they are looking pretty nasty.

Also, I am worried that I will need a special tool for cycling the ABS system valves and such if I bleed the whole system.

Any thoughts, advice, etc. on the brake system for this model?

Thanks,

Scott

 

[techieman33]

bleed all four brakes, start with the passenger rear, then the drivers rear, passenger front, and finally the drivers front. You won't have to cycle the abs pump unless you let the master cylinder run dry. My advice would be to keep bleeding each brake line until you get clean new fluid out of the bleeders. Just make sure you keep an eye on the master cylinder when your doing it and keep it topped off.

 

[92exp4x4]

Your 91 should only have rear ABS. These are much easier to bleed out than the newer units. Just bleed the system as normal like techieman described and you should have no problems.

Be careful with the bleeder screws. They have tendency to snap off if they are stuck. Soak them good with penetrating lube long before you try to put any real muscle on them. If you break one its usually just easier to buy a new caliper or wheel cylinder.

 

[yeah61794]

If they are stuck really good, penetrating lube. If that doesn't work, you could apply some heat on the bleeder bolt only and then hit it with a spray bottle of water. You do have to be very careful with this, though, as you don't want to get anything else hot that you don't have to.

 

[EScottH]

I have been reading up on the bleeder screws because, sure enough, the one I need to bleed (driver's rear) is stuck. I have been hitting it with PB Blaster every day, followed by a few taps from a hammer.

The problem is that the screw is rounded of. I bought the Irwin Bolt-Grip Deep Well bolt extraction set and was planning on putting the largest solid core wire I can fit right into the bleeder screw before I try and take it off.

Any thoughts?

Scott

 

[EScottH]

Worked like a charm! The 3/8's (9.5mm) socket took it right off. I had to work it on by hand until it grabbed, then gave it a few taps with a hammer, but after that first twist, you can IMAGINE my relief. I was NOT looking forward to having to replace the drum...

Scott

 

[92exp4x4]

Drum brakes are not fun sometimes to mess with, I agree. But they are not that hard to do though if you got the right tools.

I'm glad you could get the bleeder loose. Around here rust rules. I have broken so many bleeders, I just don't try anymore if they are really crusty. Chances are by that time its that bad, all the rest needs replaced anyhow. If i'm gonna be in there might as well replace the cylinders.