What Now, Bleeding Brakes Problem

[ski92]

After having a braking problem on my last ski trip(the 2 threads below explain in detail), I decieded to start the troubleshooting by bleeding/flushing the brake lines. I built a diy pressure bleeder. The pressure bleeder came together fine.
I started bleeding the right rear drum and everything looked like it was going good, pumped it to 20#, opened the bleed valve and lots ugly very dark brown fluid coming out. After 4-5 min it started blowing air. Looked at the MC resivoir and it nearly empty and guage at 0. Appeared little/no fluid transfered to MC.
Long story short, after checking "nearly" everything; more fluid in pressure tank, ect..I got to this weird point where I was getting pressure buildup (20#)
but no flow to the bleeder nipple, so the pressure bleeder appeared good. I decieded to call it quits and put everything back in my tiny garage. I deciede ot give the pressure bleeder another look and sure enough, the pick-up line had come out of the fifitting at the top of the tank where I could'nt see it but was still pressurizing the tank. I should have realized something like this was problem when I didn't see fluid flowing from tank to MC>

My quandry is why was it showing pressure w/ the bleeder nipple open and the pressure showing 20#. And is there anything I need to do before I try bleeding brakes again?
Also, Emerg Brake and Rear ABS lights are on.

Note: Pressure guage is in-line almost right at the MC cap, and although I'm looking for any feed back, lets assume no problems w/ the pressure bleeding apparatis


2 previous threads:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376932

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=377374

 

[Roadrunner777]

I think you got air in the ABS unit. This isn't pretty, but I will let you search.. there are threads on this one.

 

[ski92]

I think you got air in the ABS unit. This isn't pretty, but I will let you search.. there are threads on this one.

I searched and only found threads on the abs.

Why would I still have pressure being shown in the bleeder, would'nt the air be bleeding through?

Anyone have a direct link to a solution? I was wondering about "back preasuring", pressurizing from the bleeder nipple at the drum back to the MC. Any thoughts.

 

[gmanpaint]

ABS wont allow to reverse pressure for a bleed.

Letting the reservoir run dry wasn't a good thing. Bleeding the ABS is a real PITA sometimes. 1st gen ABS isn't as involved as later models, but still a PITA. Best to tow it into a brake shop & let them do it. Only reason I say this is, you might spend an arm & a leg, countless hours trying to "Fix" it, and still not be any closer than when you started.

 

[ski92]

ABS wont allow to reverse pressure for a bleed.

Letting the reservoir run dry wasn't a good thing. Bleeding the ABS is a real PITA sometimes. 1st gen ABS isn't as involved as later models, but still a PITA. Best to tow it into a brake shop & let them do it. Only reason I say this is, you might spend an arm & a leg, countless hours trying to "Fix" it, and still not be any closer than when you started.

Thanks for the straight foward advice gmanpaint

If I just by-passed the RABS would that solve the problem?

 

[gmanpaint]

By-pass is an option if you don't rely on it. Aftermarket proportioning valves are available to add to the rear line for that MOD.

This is not for everyone, and there are arguments on both side of the fence to disconnect the ABS. I do not offer an opinion on this, as it is user beware/preference.
Your safety, your responsibility, your call.

 

[ski92]

Update: Yesterday I decieded to try a little something new in order to get a braking power in order to move and work on the truck.

- I bench bled the rear brake line end of the MC, using my handy-danndy diy pressure brake bleeder then put the plastic cap that comes w/ a MC bleeding kit. When done I had a rock hard brake peddle at about 1/3 down peddle.
To my surprise it took a 13mm wrench to loosten the fitting at the MC.
It apperars the threading on the MC is metric. Very fine thread m12-1.0.
I'm having a hard time finding a metal plug, but no luck.

- Issues: How well will the plastic plug stay in place. I plan to safety wire it in place but not sure how effect this will be.

-Are all brake line fitting on the truck metric? Are the fittings at the abs module metic, are fittings the same on the abs module the same as the MC?

 

[gmanpaint]

The EX has both metric and SAE fittings on the brake system. Same sizes used on the HCU (ABS Pump) as the Master.


The master uses both metric and SAE.

I'm not sure what your asking about the plug tho. Are you wanting to eliminate the rear brakes?

 

[ski92]

The EX has both metric and SAE fittings on the brake system. Same sizes used on the HCU (ABS Pump) as the Master.


The master uses both metric and SAE.

I'm not sure what your asking about the plug tho. Are you wanting to eliminate the rear brakes?

Not wanting to elim the rears, just make it so I can drive to get the bypass done a friend w/ a lift. Just somewhat conserned about thing a plug up plastic instead of steel

 

[Roadrunner777]

I had to replace a front hard brake line, found the ABS module had metric threads, the other end was english.

 

[inkjunkie]

I would NOT be driving any thing with a plastic plug in the brake system....think not about hurting yourself but someone else....

 

[gmanpaint]

Somewhere towards the back of my Black Hole thread is a full summery of the sizes and parts used for just about all of the brake system. I had to replace just about everything at one time.

 

[ski92]

Hi, All: Where is the screw located on the RABS unit that releases it form the frame rail???. Can't see it layign on my back under the truck. Everything eles is ready undone, I just can't find the screw to remove the unit

 

[ski92]

I would NOT be driving any thing with a plastic plug in the brake system....think not about hurting yourself but someone else....

I double safety wired the plastic plug into place- it wasn't giong anywhere, lead a little, but not blow out.

Finding a plug for the m12x1.0 port was nearly impossible, expensive and would have taken much time. At Autozone I did fifnd an short 4-5" adaptor brake line w/ the m12x1.0 in ine end a 3/8 standard flare on the other end. If I had wanted a hard plug solution I could have used the adaptor w/ a 3/8 flare union 3/8 flare plug. All were right there at AZ.

All is good now, got the abs off, bent the fittings around till they were close enough, then attached them w/ 1/4" union, bleed the rear brakes(fronts already done). Brakes working perfect