For what it's worth I'll add my experience here. I installed a new air door actuator. Then on powering up, I thought, "What's wrong?" --because it would not move at all when i changed the temperature settings. ------ So I found several instances of the same thing happening (not moving) on here and elsewhere. ------- Finally I found that the unit needs to be re-initialized (reset) (not by disconnecting the battery) by pushing specified keys to access the self-diagnostic. ------ So, then I tried it but had no luck. I went back in and looked at a couple of videos on this, and noticed the person was pushing the first two [OFF] and [FLOOR] only very briefly like less than a second, and simultaneously, then let go and pushed [AUTOMATIC] . Lo!, the test pattern came up, ran for thirty seconds, followed by a code of 24 and 25 (bad actuator) so the i did final step: pushing {DEFROST] which cleared the codes thus allowing the unit to work normally. In IT, where i work, we call it re-initializing the controller. ----- My mistake earlier on, when it did not respond, was in holding down the [OFF] and [FLOOR] too long a period, like waiting for a timeup. ----- It is fixed now, the door moves nicely and changes the temperature in response to changing it on the panel... Note: This applies only to the automatic climate control EATC --and the unit must be OFF prior to turning off the ignition key. Then turn the key on and do the pressing of the buttons as indicated. You can retry if the first attempts get bogged down --- Be quick ---- ----- Additional notes as follows: Apparently the trouble codes disable the function in order to prevent further damage or overload. -----The actuator unit i put in (first of all choose the one for the automatic EATC) was not Ford, it was a Techsmart (Standard Motor Products) from Rock Auto, at nice low price. But any of them so long as matched to the automatic EATC should work, with proper procedure, and assuming the door itself has not broken at the pivots. ----- By the way, no reason to dis-assemble the whole car, just remove what is needed such as the glove compartment, and move a few hoses and wires aside. I cut an access hole in the plastic air box just below where the actuator sits. It was about 4 by 4 inch. Just use a draw knife such as made for plexiglass cutting, score it, then break along the scores with a suitable tool. Do not jam screwdrivers in more than a half inch. ---- You can carefully file off rough edges with a rasp file. (carefully) This should allow you to inspect with a mechanics extension mirror (like a dentists mirror), or with fingernails grab the edge of the door to move it (helpful when you install the new one) ------- Next make a template from card stock to find where to cut notches, establish perimeter, mark for holes to punch. Use template to cut out and punch holes in a tinplate piece about a half inch larger all around than the opening. Drill (carefully) holes into the plastic opening same place you punched the holes, use the plate as a guide. Use a drill size about 1/32 smaller than the screws you intend using. I used #8 x 1/2 inch long, hex head self tapping (ie sheet metal screws) Do not use screws that are too large--or the plastic can crack. The plate you made is now your access panel. Put it on to close the air box after the actuator is installed (of course) --- To install the new actuator compare to the old one and be sure the shaft position is about the same as the old one was. It is keyed, one rounded size across from a squared side). To move the shaft, find the correct pins and apply 5 volt to run the dc motor (briefly enough) to move it. To reverse direction just reverse polarity. (CAUTION: Do not use car battery or bad things can happen) To ease insertion, chamfer with a file (conservatively) around the end of the actuator shaft. Use a small bright LED flashlight for inspection of the opening and a mirror to be sure no foreign objects are in the air box (like a dead mouse or one of your tools) If there is a mouse, then a breach of the screen or something has occurred and can cause more problems if another one comes in. --- To insert shaft of new actuator, use a limber hand and sort of feel it in -- meanwhile with your other hand you can move the door edge by reaching in the opening and moving that door a little to match up to the shaft. Once in properly it is sufficient to install the front two screws only, as the back one would be a ***** to put in. As it is you'll be doing a lot of bending and stretching, and maybe a cut or two on your hands. The Ford Explorers are easy for this repair compared to various Ford cars which have less room in there to work. I do not produce videos, but there are a few you can find on Youtube under Ford EATC and Ford air mixture door actuator, or similar. One of the videos shows an access panel cut, and another shows the pushing of the buttons and the resultant test pattern.
