bondo and molding question.

[DOZIER]

does anyone happen to have step by step directions and pictures of how to shave door handles and fill in body lines and stuff.

 

[ExplorerDMB]

I know MONMIX did a thing about using bondo to fix something on his truck (maybe a dent). Anyway, Bondo isn't really hard to apply. Just make sure you sand the area you want smooth and to where it can really grab onto something (ie primer). And for shaved handles and such, you'll need to put sheetmetal over your door holes (where your handles use to be) to cover the area. DO NOT try to use bondo over these holes. It will not work. Also, most people weld the sheetmetal over the holes and then grind it smooth. Good luck.

-Drew

 

[jimbo74]

if you do the shaving hte handles the correct way, no bondo is ever used.... the correct way is to grind, apply a metal patch and weld it in place... followed by grinding and more metal work......

only way to do it in my opinion...... bondo is ghetto

 

[rookieshooter]

I'm basicaly going to do that to my square gas hinged gas door on the B11. Romove door, weld in sheet metal plate to give it a shaved look. And then cut in one of those round billet aluminum ones that you just push in. It would be a piece of cake it I can find one that would cover the the intire square hole but can not find one. So I'll use the largest dia. one I can find no matter for what make and model. Might just take some pics as I go along..... then post if it turns out OK, if it turns out like crap I won't

 

[MONMIX]

if you do the shaving hte handles the correct way, no bondo is ever used.... the correct way is to grind, apply a metal patch and weld it in place... followed by grinding and more metal work......

only way to do it in my opinion...... bondo is ghetto

Yeah right

You would have to be super welder from Mars !!!!!!!!
Okay maybe it is not impossible, but it would be SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much additional work when there really is nothing wrong with BODY FILLER

 

[Bswerl]

Yeah right

You would have to be super welder from Mars !!!!!!!!
Okay maybe it is not impossible, but it would be SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much additional work when there really is nothing wrong with BODY FILLER

I could take out the door handle, cut a peice of steel to fit it almost perfectly, mig weld it do the door, then grind the welds down in about 30 min, although you'd still want a coat of bondo over it to blend it. Anyone with basic welding skills could do this, although controling the amout of heat you use is critical since if you just lay one continuous bead you run a pretty good chance of warping the whole area, you'd have to back step weld the area one small section at a time. Simple though

 

[Spdrcer34]

I have taken MANY pictures of the processes it takes to PROPERLY shave the door handles.....

And contrary to a previous statement.......Body Filler (i.e. Bondo brand body filler) will almost CERTAINLY be used....I have shaved EVERYTHING off my X, from the Handles, and locks, to the Rear hatch, and even the rear bumper. I know how to do it RIGHT, and can tell/show someone how to do it too....

My Elite Registry has some pics....but I have more to post. Maybe tomorrow or Friday I'll get to it.

Ryan

 

[ryf]

the "correct" way is to weld a plate over the hole, grind it down, and bondo/body fill to get the right surface. The reason that this is the "correct" way, is it is the longest lasting repair, a large slug of bondo can break from enough door slamming, which pro's don't want to chance having to fix later. The metal also gives you a back plate so it requires FAR less bondo to get it correct. for door handles, in some cars you would need enough bondo behind the hole to make it sturdy that it would effect the windows (I've seen it)

If you are against welding, spend the extra money to use fiberglass, the mesh will give you more structural integrity (self-supporting) so you can do it in less weight which is what causes the breakaway issue. remember to glass the front and the back so the fiberglass holds itself in. this would be the 2nd best way to welding.

 

[rookieshooter]

This is just as ryf said, this is what I had to do to fit a round gas door in my B11. Cut and fit metal piece, weld it in and grind down weld. I finished mine with a light coat of glazing compund. You can see the round scribed marks of the knew round door. Did not cover corners but after welding and covering with a light coat of glazing compund over the grinded and sanded welds you won't see where the corner was, same concept of shaving. Even the worlds best hot rodders use some bondo or glazing compunds. All you have to watch is Boddington and the others. I saw him take his finger and run some bondo down his welds after grinding and sanding. And this is one of the best cars he ever built to go to a show. I could have kept sanding and changing to finer grits 400/600/800 and so on. too much time. I did get it down where I used the glazing instead of the heavier bondo. If I was going to shave the gas cap I would have glazed the whole door and sanded with a very fine grit. But since the door was covering most of the metal no need to

Just a light coat of glazing compund

The round door did not cover the square patch, a little more sanding of the corners and it will be ready to paint. This is not shaving the gas door, but still requires the same steps.

 

[ryf]

may not be done but it is nice work so far. That is a good example of the correct method (a good addition would be if you have a picture of the spot welds)

but definitely a nice looking job

 

[MONMIX]

Yeah my point was exactaly that.
Door skins are rather thin. Welding WITH OUT metal distirtion. and WITH OUT any cracks or pin holes would be a truly amazing feat. Not even to mention grinding scratches.

Done correctly body filler can out last the panel it is atteched to.

 

[ryf]

well, body work is a series of spot welds on low heat so the metal distorts as little as possible. I'd think unless you were using Lead it would be near impossible to do it without body filler/glaze/fiberglass.

I'm sure with enough training/practice and time there are people who do it, I would venture to say its highly unlikely many people (I'd guess less than 100) have done a full car of shaves and fills without some form of body filler, this includes lead.

every good body man knows there isn't a way to get the perfect paint job without a little body putty. you can get a good paint job, but no-one but a cars owner DIY'ing (who never wants to get to paint) or people with Jay Lenos' budget would go for the "all steel" method. it takes too long, and would not be cost effective, for the extent of work it would take to make the steel perfect. Lead would be good, as a body putty alternative, but the skills required to make it work and not take a forever to finish escape most all DIY'ers, and the cost is ungodly high.

The key to body filler is the weight, if you need more than 3/16 of a inch in filler (I aim for less than 1/16") I'd say you did it wrong, and it increases the opportunity to trap moisture/air, which with changing seasons can crack the bondo (just like concrete or anything else)

 

[Glacier991]

I think what we are missing here is the proper use of body filler. We have all seen the pictures of a hunk of body filler 2 inches thick and 18 inches in DIA falling off a door panel. Monmix did a great thread on use of it.... I think what he needs to explain again is that it is used in thin applications... not to avoid a bumped out dent. I'll defer to his area of expertise....

Yet, I again point out, it's how you define it's use.

 

[MONMIX]

^^^ Yeah, it is body filler not " Fender in a can "
Quality metal work is 90% of the task.

I gather RYF, you are a body tech ?

yeah 13 years and counting for me. I actually love what I am doing.

 

[ryf]

actually, no I just took the classes in college, I believe the term is "audit" take the class, learn the stuff, abuse the shop time, get no credit (cheaper and doesn't hurt your GPA for nto doing the paperwork or studying) that and automotive classes to get me into the basics of motors and so forth.

I don't have any time in it as a job, but I do a fairly fine job once I warm up. I keep collecting more tools though, the wife says I'm going to have to open a shop to pay for it. (my end goal is to build a car from scratch, body and all, but its financially haulted for a while)

 

[DOZIER]

ok so i have a friend who can weld so i need to take out the door handles then of course after i put the door poppers in then get him to mig weld a piece of steel plate which fits the location of the handle exactly into place ensuring not to get the metal too hot and start on one side with one tac then move to the opposite side over and over again until i completely have tac welded the entire plate into place, then grind the welding until smooth. after that use bondo a light layer of bondo on the area and sand until smooth and it looks like there is no hole or the plate isnt visible in there right? then its cool to prime and spray right?

 

[MONMIX]

exactally !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Make sure the welds are solid any hole will come back to haunt you.

Just remind your welder KEEP IT COOL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[oilfield]

have had the doors shaved on my X since 98' still have not cracked.

oh yeah make sure you get a strong door popper that is the biggest mistake i see on shaving door handles. the bigger the better. Make sure there installed correctly. that is so annoying when you can't get your door open and have to go through the back hatch. especally when you have 4-15's in the back.

 

[DOZIER]

yea or like myself with 6 twelves.

 

[rookieshooter]

Had to put just a little filler putty around the edge of the gas door because it stuck out about 3/16" and this made for a smooth radius finishl Remember this was not for a B11. Just sprayed a little temporary paint. About an inch out from the aluminum door is where the steel plate was spot welded in and filled with a little bondo. This could have been just like a shaved door handle. I am not a pro at this stuff and had never worked in a body shop. Just a lot of trial and error and reading a lot on the stuff.

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