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Brake Rotor Removal - Help!!

tobybul

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September 7, 2007
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City, State
Michigan
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 XLT
1997 XLT 110k. Need to replace front rotors (probably still the original). Rotors are pitted from truck sitting for a year not used. Being in the rust belt, I'm afraid the rotors are stuck to the hub. Attempted twice to remove it with no success. Was careful in "whacking" it off so maybe thats why I was unsuccessful. First used a big rubber mallet then a large hammer.

Any suggestions besides continuing the same method? Will a gear puller work better? Anyone been thru this? Thanks.

May end up doing the rear ones too later:eek:
 



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1997 XLT 110k. Need to replace front rotors (probably still the original). Rotors are pitted from truck sitting for a year not used. Being in the rust belt, I'm afraid the rotors are stuck to the hub. Attempted twice to remove it with no success. Was careful in "whacking" it off so maybe thats why I was unsuccessful. First used a big rubber mallet then a large hammer.

Any suggestions besides continuing the same method? Will a gear puller work better? Anyone been thru this? Thanks.

May end up doing the rear ones too later:eek:

Get ready to take your frustration out on these things. I don't suggest pounding too hard because you can hurt the expensive bearings.





Put some pb blaster on the internal circular hub where the rotor mates and where the studs go into the rotors. Spin the wheel, and repeat every few hours and let sit overnight.

Use a 3Lb deadblow plastic covered hammer if at all possible.

I've had luck by wedging hardwood and other objects between the spindle and the rotor. Then driving the wedge and pounding the rotor with a hammer at different positions.

Took about 1/2 hr-45 min of this to get it off.

Heat may be your friend too, heat the around the rotor to make it expand a bit and break rust. I didn't use heat though. I think you need something hotter than propane though.

Shops use 10lb sledges but you risk destroying a 150$ part, they dont care - just want to paid and your truck off the hook.

Use naval jelly or rust remover and abrasive to clean your hub from rust. This will prevent rotor runout due to rust buildup.

Apply a light coat of antisize to the new rotor and hub face.
 






My indy wants $100 to do the work less the parts. I'm contemplating having them do it but like you said, I don't want them messing up the hub....:(
 






My indy wants $100 to do the work less the parts. I'm contemplating having them do it but like you said, I don't want them messing up the hub....:(

They will probably pound it. Even so it could take an hour :(. I waited for tires once and watched them go at an EX for over a hour with a big sledge.

If you dont neeed the truck right away PB it for a few days, and give it the hurts with some compassion every day. It will break eventually. The wedging definately helps.
 






They will probably pound it. Even so it could take an hour :(. I waited for tires once and watched them go at an EX for over a hour with a big sledge.

If you dont neeed the truck right away PB it for a few days, and give it the hurts with some compassion every day. It will break eventually. The wedging definately helps.

Thanks.... I actually treid using a 4' pry bar but as i was prying, I could see the hub move along too so I backed off. As you, I don't want to mess up the hub. Maybe I am being too careful.

I'm still wondering if a gear puller will work. What do you think?
 






Thanks.... I actually treid using a 4' pry bar but as i was prying, I could see the hub move along too so I backed off. As you, I don't want to mess up the hub. Maybe I am being too careful.

I'm still wondering if a gear puller will work. What do you think?

Probably a good quality one would work..tapping along as well. You are going to really have to crank that thing. That would reduce stress on the hub too.
 






i had the same problem when i replaced the rotors on my 99. pb blaster or dw-40 are going to be your friend here. that and spray it around the lug nut bolts and around the outside and inside if ya can. spinning while hammering worked for me. but with a rubber mallet of course. what i did was hit the rotor as i spun it and then also hit the top of it to help knock the rust loose. good luck. it took me two days to do the front and rear rotors and brakes.
 






You may save time taking the hub off the truck. Its three bolts and the CV nut. Put it lug side down on a piece of wood and beat the **** out of the rotor. No chance of damaging the hub.
 






I have removed a really stubborn rotor, by drilling two lines of holes, (about 1/8 dia will do) one each side of the centre nut outwards. Don't drill through into the hub !

Drill them so that they align with stud holes.

Drill one hole (at each side) close to the outer edge and then another at 90' on the outer part of the centre section.

With a little care these two holes will come close to joining up.

Now a sharp chisel and only moderate force may be sufficient to crack the rotor. The chisel doesn't need to be large, just keep it sharp.
 






I know some vehicles have rotors with a threaded hole where you can crank in a bolt to remove the rotor when they're stuck like this. For some reason I'm thinking we're not that fortunate... I wonder if you could drill and tap a hole to accomplish the same thing.
 






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