Broke the OD band and need advice

[Malchi]

Ok, I started this on the Band specification/Adjustment thread, but felt it needed a thread of it's own so as not to hijack that thread.

Anyway, I was adjusting the bands on my 1991 Explorer 4x4 trans and managed to break the OD band. I don't know if it was already bad (d0 they get weak after a while) or if I just never felt the torque wrench click and overtightened it. I have to admit, I have never torqued anything to 120 inch lbs before and was surprised to see how little pressure it took. Got my intermediate band adjusted right, after I learned my lesson on the OD.

Anyhow, thanks to BrooklynBay for the help so far, in advising me what that pop inside the trans meant when the bolt all a sudden started turning too easy. And for advising me not to drive it that way. I was gonna do so, thinking I just would'nt put it in OD.

Now, here is the reason I adjusted the bands in the first place. I just bought this truck a few weeks ago and, after replacing the fan clutch with a heavy duty one, I could hear the engine rev up more clearly. Going from a stop, it seemed like the tach was going up quickly and the speedo catching up slowly. Like, the trans wasn't grabbing very solidly. Also, when it shifted, at any speed, any gear, it seemed to only be droppig maybe 500 or so RPM. Just didn't seem right. But, I already stated to BrooklynBay that I know very little about transmissions. Also, last day or so, after I replaced the vacuum modulator, which was leaking like a sieve, it seemed at times, while driving, if I punched it, the truck would just wind up kinda high without really accelerating for the first second or so. To me that sounds like a slip, no?

So, hoping the band adjustment would at least help get me by a couple more years, I decided to do that.

Now, seeing as I broke the OD band, it needs to be replaced. I read a good bit of the thread about rebuilding the A4LD, and I am sure I could at least replace the OD band, and I think I could do the rest as well. But, I already have over $900 in this truck, and it's only worth about $1500 or so at best, I don't wanna put much more in it.

So, here are my options as I see them. I could R+R the trans and replace the OD band, and hopefully that will fix it. Or, I found I can get a used trans from the local U PUll It salvage yard for $200, and slap that in and hope for the best.

Can anyone, BrooklynBay?, give me some input on this? From the description of my symptoms, do you think replacing the band will fix it? What about a used trans? Is it worth it? What should I look for to see if mine is worth just slapping in a band, or in the used one to see if it is gonna last me a year or so?

I am planning to drop my pan this evening and see what it looks like in there.

 

[ragajungle]

If the OD band snapped you are probably better off trying your luck with a JY trans and maybe work on OH the trans in your truck... that way you could take your time with it and do it right and keep your Ex on the road.

This way you will be able to round up the alignment tool, rebuild kit and VB updates and not be tempted to "rush" -- that's what I plan to do with my 5r55e over the winter

 

[Malchi]

Ok, for what it's worth, I dropped the pan and there was only one tiny piece of metal in it, I mean real tiny. I will try to take a picture of it in a bit, next to a dime for reference, and post it up.

 

[ragajungle]

It might be a keeper for a valve --- Is the trans IN the truck now? If so It might be worth putting a pressure test on it..

 

[Malchi]

Here is the piece of metal next to a dime.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The apply strut & broken band end should be in there somewhere. A junkyard transmission might be cheap, but the condition is unknown. It might have been the reason why the vehicle was in the junkyard in the first place. A rebuilt unit is about $1,500-$1,800. I know that there are guys on EBay selling them for under $800, but keep in mind that they might be rebuilt with only soft parts, and not with hard parts. Read the A4LD rebuild diary for more information on what this means. The A4LD doesn't always last too long on a soft parts rebuild.

 

[Malchi]

BrooklynBay, thanks for the response. True, with a junkyard trans you never know. It does come with a 30 day warranty that it is at least working at the time.

I did read the A4LD Rebuild diary, almost to the end. My question is this. Will a soft parts rebuild, at least get me another 15 -20K miles? Thing is, I just bought this Explorer for $400 cause it was overheating. Fixed that and smogged it, title, and I now have $900+. All I wanted was a cheap 4X4 to get by about the next 2 years or so. I don't by any means have $1000, much less $1500 - $1800, to put in it if I wanted to, which I don't.

Anyway, I appreciate the response so far. And, don't just tell me what I wanna hear. If you really think I would be throwing my money away by either getting a junkyard trans or doing a soft parts rebuild on mine, then tell me. I mean, if it won't work, I don't wanna do it. I'd rather try to sell it for whatever I can get out of it as it is and eat the loss. Chalk it up to experience ya know. But if you think it will likely last a couple years of easy driving, then I am willing to try it.

 

[ragajungle]

If you don't have the $ for a true rebuild then you almost have to get a JY trans... pull the current trans and install the JY and start saving or rebuild the one from your truck. I am in the exact same boat as you. It IS a toss-up on trans used parts but what other choice? you can buy another beater and start over or love the one your with. The best part about owning a beater explorer is that once you get em straight they are Amazingly Reliable and what's more is you have an amazing resource in this forum.

I have, with the help of EF, kept my sisters Ex running strong for 275K miles - and am in the process of getting my own Ex working.\\
Good Luck and keep us posted.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Sometimes a hard part may look questionable, so the usual reaction that most rebuilders will have is to reuse it since it's not completely bad. What if that part fails after a few thousand miles? It will take the rest of the transmission along with it, and will cost more to repair. I'm not implying that you should trash every hard part in there, but if one has rounded corners or a hair line crack, then don't try to reuse it. Another thing not to cut corners on is the torque converter. Never reuse an old torque converter.

 

[Malchi]

Ok, at this point I'm leaning towards just replacing the band in mine and going with it.

One more question first. When I dropped my pan today there was, as I said, only one piece of metal in it. But, the fluid seemed to have a fair amount of graphite stuff in it that just made the fluid in the bottom of the pan look kinda dirty. I was talking to a friend and he said that may be from the clutches. But, he wasn't sure, thought there should be more like slivers or whatever if the clutches are bad. What do y'all say? Does it sound as if my trans is worth just replacing the band in? And, if so, do you still recommend replacing the torque converter if that is all I do?

 

[Malchi]

It might be a keeper for a valve --- Is the trans IN the truck now? If so It might be worth putting a pressure test on it..

What do you mean by a pressure test? What will that tell me?

 

[Malchi]

Never mind. I answered my own question by searching BrooklynBay's list of useful threads.

But, since I can't drive it with the band broken, is it ok to do the pressure test with it broken?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Automatic transmissions shift with hydraulic pressure. This is the reason why it's so important to use clean fluid.

 

[Malchi]

Ok, found a '94 with what looks like a good trans in it. Fairly clean indicating it may have been rebuilt not too long before it was junked. Hopefully it didn't fail quickly and be the reason it was junked. Am I right in that one out of a '94 will be fully compatible?

Also, next Saturday they are having a sale, everything 1/2 off. So, I get the trans for $65, plus $40 for warranty. That's a used trans with a 30 day warranty for $100! Can't beat that!

 

[PopRichie77]

It should be a 4ALD same as yours, just check to see if there is a vacuum modulator on passenger side same as yours, cause you never know if someone tried to put a different one in.