broken lower intake stud bolt

[cerberusaardvark]

was torqueing the lower intake down to about 40 ft lbs and the front stud bolt snapped.

what now?????

 

[Anime]

Take off the intake, unscrew the rest of the stud or use an extractor if it's broken off flush, get another one, screw it in, use less torque when tightening the intake nuts next time.

Seems odd for 40 ft/lbs to snap it, but maybe the torque wrench isn't calibrated correctly or you're applying it straight off rather than in smaller increments in the right pattern.

 

[cerberusaardvark]

i noticed that one of the other bolts wouldnt torque down. should i re tap the bolt holes or would that mean a load of metal flakes in the oil pan?

 

[cerberusaardvark]

my manual says that the torque is 36 - 72 ft lbs.. that sounded like a lot so i went with the lower torque... but i just saw a post on here where someone said they only toque to 13 ft lbs....

 

[FR-425]

Use Anti seize compound.

the threads are binding.

You could run em with a tap, smear the tap with grease, any shavings will stick to the grease. Flush out with carb cleaner.

 

[cerberusaardvark]

well i wish it was as easy as get another intake stud but they arent available anywhere ive checked. home depot, autozone, and the dealership. the next option is to go to napa and try to find a substitute or go to a pick and pull to find one. i dont relish that option bc i dont live near one. does anyone here know where to find a set????

 

[FR-425]

Just a grade 8 metric stud.

Ace hardware: fasteners isle.

Home depot doesn't have a good selection of machine bolts.

Here in AZ we have Copper state nut and bolt. They are a manufacturer and retailer.

You likely have something like that in San-d

 

[cerberusaardvark]

Yea I just finished looking for those. I went all over and even found a few m8 bolts. But they were all to short. Once last place to try. Looking for an m8 stud or rod or bolt that I can cut to size. Really don't want to tear apart a junkyard engine.

In case I find a rod, I would cut it to size but then would I measure how far to screw into the block or would I damage a few threads to prevent it from going in too far and simulating a stud?

 

[FR-425]

For torque specs. They are year specific: for 94'

The procedure calls for three passes:

Torque in sequence to 72 in-lb

Then repeat sequence to 144 in-lb

Then again to 192 in-lb .....Yes "inch pounds"

Intake manifold studs to block 72-84 in-lb

The sequence goes:

front left
right rear
front right
left rear

then the inner four cris-cross pattern you get the idea.

Source: Chilton manual

DON'T TRY TO CONVERT IN-LB TO FT-LB USE THE CORRECT TORQUE WRENCH

 

[FR-425]

The studs are just use to provide alignment when setting the manifold on.

You can replace the broken one with a bolt. you'll just have to be extra cool when you set it down.

finding a 8mm bolt that length will be a snap

Oh, if you use the bolt instead, ignore the stud to block torque on that one and use the manifold torque specs.

The torque for the studs is lower so that on removal the studs "should" come out of the head to make removal of the manifold easier. not counting 20 years of course!

 

[FR-425]

Keep in mind a bolt will be shorted than the stud..

The bolt needs to be the same length as the stud with the nut on it.

stud: ----/--------------

bolt: /--------------

The slash = nut or bolt head. the editor won't allow empty spaces so the nuts aren't lined up in the example hope it makes sense to ya

 

[cerberusaardvark]

exactly right. i found some bolts the are m8 but none of them were quite long enough.

my haynes manual completely left off the ft lbs and in lbs

it literally just has the numbers in a list with no designation... gonna have to write those in. thats really frustrating.

good to know i can just find an m8 bolt and torque down same as a stud.

we will see what i find at the store tomorrow.

 

[cerberusaardvark]

update: after scrounging thru all the stores i could find, i came home with an assortment of bolts.

i found that a 8x1.25 bolt with a length of 90mm is an exact fit. but since i could only find one bolt that length, i got one thatwas 100mm long and ground off the last 10mm or so.

i know there is a marshalls that would probably have that exact stud bolt but im tired of stopping and going and want this thing put together.

off to autozone to rent a torque wrench in inch pounds

 

[cgbier]

Inch? Feet? What's the difference? How do you calculate it?

 

[arco777]

12" in a foot, 12 in/lbs in 1 ft/lb. I always just multiplied or divided as necessary.

I keep two different torque wrenches; typically one that reads in in/lbs is for smaller torque values and ft/lbs is for larger values. A torque wrench measuring in ft/lbs will not be very accurate for a reading in in/lbs, because at low torque settings it's just not precise enough.

 

[cgbier]

A torque wrench measuring in ft/lbs will not be very accurate for a reading in in/lbs, because at low torque settings it's just not precise enough.

Oh, ok. That's the issue.

Thought there was some mathemagic involved.... been too spoiled by the metric system all of my life.

Thanks for not letting me die completely stupid.

 

[FR-425]

Yeah, Haynes manuals tell you in the legend, glossary, whatever ya call it.


That "Unless otherwise noted torques are in in-lb."

Or that they are not listed until torque exceeds 15 ft-lb which of course would be 180 in-lb

some such nonsense. you get the idea.

 

[FR-425]

So you went 40 ft-lb on the stud..480 in-lb..and snap!

Yep that'll do it.

Ooops!

Glad you you didn't do that to the manifold!

I totally missed the "ft-lb" when I first read this! Then it dawned on me so I pulled out the book.

 

[cerberusaardvark]

another update: everythings bolted back together and the in lbs torque wrench was real handy.

yeah as soon as that head snapped off i knew something was up

 

[FR-425]

Nice!

Gonna make it to Truck Haven?