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Brown Wire Mod Question

Gabe96Explorer

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City, State
DIRTAY NEW JERSAY
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 Explorer 4x4 Sport
I posted in the thread for the 2nd time and I got no response, so I am going to post a thread here, in hopes that someone can answer my questions.

Ok... QUESTION... it isn't really answered well from what I have read.

I have a 96 Sport, 4x4 OHV with the Control Trac.

The brown wire mod, will simply disable the control trac "sensor" and allow me to have a constant locked 4WD high and constant locked 4WD Low, am I right?

:exp:
 



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I believe it is the electro-magnet on the clutch pack that is disabled by the Brown Wire Mod. My understanding is the mod will give you 2WD.
 






drdoom is correct on both points
 






The settings you describe "constantly locked 4HI & constantly locked 4LO" are achieved by using the dashboard switch in it's stock configuration.
 






The settings you describe "constantly locked 4HI & constantly locked 4LO" are achieved by using the dashboard switch in it's stock configuration.

Alright.

This explains alot... so the question REALLY IS, will I get better gas mileage with strictly 2wd?
 






No, too many parts still turn. There is no gain with this modification.
 












You have a '96, your switch should be labeled 2wd, A4wd, 4low.

The '95-96 version of the BWM would give you 4high (always engaged). 4low is always engaged, not auto.
 












http://www.explorer4x4.com/controltrac_mod.htm

'95-'96 to Engage the 4wd full-time

Access the brown wire and make the connections to the brown wire as described in the procedure for the '97-'01 Explorers. However, connecting to the switch will be a little different.

You will need to connect a splice to a power source in order to manually power the Transfer Case Clutch Coil. I used a Scotch-Lok to splice a wire onto the existing Cigarette Lighter circuit, but any power source will work, so long as it can support an additional 5A without blowing its fuse. Make sure to install a 10A fuse in-line as an additional safety. The transfer case clutch coil draws right around 5A on my truck, so a 10A fuse should be more than sufficient.

If you simply want to add 4high, use an SPDT On-On switch. If you want the ability to use 2 low as well, use an SPDT ON-off-ON switch.

Please note: If you want to use a lighted switch on a 95-96 and want to use 2low, you'll need a very specific type of switch (which I can recommend) or a DPDT switch and separate LED (which you can find at radio shack), and the wiring gets a little more complicated. It's not difficult, but it's a whole other discussion for another time. To keep the choices simple, I'll focus on the first two choices I mentioned here.

For the ON-ON switch to add 4 high:

Connect both wires from the splice to the center terminal on the switch. Then connect the wire from the auxiliary power source to the other terminal on the switch. This will allow the system to function normally as it did before, as well as allow you to send power to the TCCC manually when you turn the switch on.

Before putting the dash back together, connect the 4wd switch and take it out for a ride. With the OEM switch set to 4auto, you should feel the system cycle normally. Then, flip your BWM switch on and the system should be locked in 4wd high.

Please note: In order to use 4high, the OEM switch must be set to 4auto first to lock the CAD on the front axle.

For the ON-off-ON switch to add two low:

Connect the wires as shown here: (this shows a DPDT switch, could someone shoot me a drawing of a SPDT switch? I don't have the patience for Microsoft Paint!!!)



Now, before buttoning it back up, try it out. With the OEM switch set to 4auto to lock the CAD on the front axle, you should have one switch on position where the system acts as it did originally (i.e. 4auto). The other on position should lock the transfer case in 4 high. The off position should disconnect the front axle regardless of the OEM switch position.
 












Reading that I am a little lost, can someone help me translate it to a bit more LAYMENS terms?

Connect both wires from the splice to the center terminal on the switch. Then connect the wire from the auxiliary power source to the other terminal on the switch. This will allow the system to function normally as it did before, as well as allow you to send power to the TCCC manually when you turn the switch on.

Translation:
Send 12volts into the brown wire through a switch and you will have 4 high.

(its really that simple)
 












No, you just turn the selector to 4 low, BWM switch off. 4 low is fully engaged, not Torque-On-Demand.
 












Getting warmer...
 






I'm looking to disable 4wheel auto so that i have 2wheel,4high and 4 low any suggestions? 00 explorer
 






You can't make it true 2 wheel with out changing a lot of parts. You have a live front axle, the viscous coupling in the transfer case supplies a small amount of power to the front drive shaft all the time. If you do the brown wire mod it only stops the magnetic clutch in the transfer case from applying when the selector is in auto, the rear wheels will spin and not the front but all the parts in the front axle are still turning.
 



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I'm looking to disable 4wheel auto so that i have 2wheel,4high and 4 low any suggestions? 00 explorer

The Brown Wire Mod will get you the closest thing to a true 2wd option. Like Pop said... the front axle will still turn, but the Tcase wont engage.
 






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