Brown Wire Mod, Yeah yeah i know.

[wollimann]

I was just really hoping I can wire it all in the cab.

I am not shure, but when the main wiring harness to the transfer case runs down in the driverside cable channel, routing under the carpet driverside seat down to the TC, then you can wire the switch in the cab. Only one crawl under the car to verify the thick brown wire that comes out of the TC (it should be brown and do not change the color in the main harness).

 

[281exploder]

I am not shure, but when the main wiring harness to the transfer case runs down in the driverside cable channel, routing under the carpet driverside seat down to the TC, then you can wire the switch in the cab. Only one crawl under the car to verify the thick brown wire that comes out of the TC (it should be brown and do not change the color in the main harness).
View attachment 457967
View attachment 457968

gotcha ill check it out I'll be doing the brown wire today, I already wired up power and ground to the switch and installed it yesterday just need to do the brown wire. under the center console trim where the cup holders were there was a unused plug that had constant power and ground so I cut the plug and tapped in to the wires and fed it to the switch.

 

[wollimann]

For my understanding you do not need power for a additional switch, maybe ground for the switch LED.
The brown wire has 5-12 volt, only seperate the brown wire and connect both ends with the switch.
Or did you plan to switch with a relay?
(make shure to use thick cable, solder them, the switch should resist 30A)

 

[281exploder]

For my understanding you do not need power for a additional switch, maybe ground for the switch LED.
The brown wire has 5-12 volt, only seperate the brown wire and connect both ends with the switch.
Or did you plan to switch with a relay?
(make shure to use thick cable, solder them, the switch should resist 30A)

this is the switch I'm using. and I'm not using a relay, I've seen and heard plenty of people do the mod without a relay. I'm using every pin other than bottom right pin for dash lights because I want the light for the switch to always be on when ignition is on. and I'm using 18 guage for ground and power, should I use 16 guage for the brown wire? what guage is the brown wire?

 

[281exploder]

pretty sure i found the brown wire at the transfer case, finally. time to finish all this up now.

furthermore pretty sure that is 16 guage wire, debating whether i should use 16 or stick with 18.

 

[wollimann]

I would say 2 and 3 to the ends of the brown wire (2 from system side, 3 to the TC), only to interrupt the circuit.
8 to ground with a bridge to 7.
But i am not so firm at car electrics, but thicker wires are better for the amps running to the TC.

 

[281exploder]

I would say 2 and 3 to the ends of the brown wire (2 from system side, 3 to the TC), only to interrupt the circuit.
8 to ground with a bridge to 7.
But i am not so firm at car electrics.

oh I can wire the brown wire to positive also? I thought the switch would only work if I had both ends of the brown hooked to the accessory pin. this is my first electrical automotive project so I have no idea myself I'm just guessing along as I go. using common sense of course but that only gets anybody so far you know.

 

[wollimann]

As i wrote, the system provides the brown wire between 5 and 12 volts for the coil inside of the Transfer Case.
The new switch only interrupts the circuit, so the TC coil gets no power to engage the TC clutch.
This is independent of the OEM 4x4 switch at the dash, so you can still choose high and low.
Cut the brown wire at a accessable position, solder and isolate the new thick wires for the switch
with the brown wire ends. Route the new wires to the switch, solder plugs to the wireends and connect them
to the switch. Maybe you should try before if pin 2 and pin 3 are the real breaker contacts.
You do not need no additional power supply! Only ground for the LED's.

Very schematic!

https://www.amazon.com/Bright-Light-Powersports-Universal-Rocker/dp/B07CYKNZM7?tag=seriouexplor-20

I forgot pin6 at the swith, it is for the dash light circuit (could found behind the center console, maybe ashtray light)

 

[281exploder]

As i wrote, the system provides the brown wire between 5 and 12 volts for the coil inside of the Transfer Case.
The new switch only interrupts the circuit, so the TC coil gets no power to engage the TC clutch.
This is independent of the OEM 4x4 switch at the dash, so you can still choose high and low.
Cut the brown wire at a accessable position, solder and isolate the new thick wires for the switch
with the brown wire ends. Route the new wires to the switch, solder plugs to the wireends and connect them
to the switch. Maybe you should try before if pin 2 and pin 3 are the real breaker contacts.
You do not need no additional power supply! Only ground for the LED's.

Very schematic!

View attachment 457977

interesting thank you!

 

[wollimann]

Did you get the switch working?

 

[281exploder]

Did you get the switch working?

yes! the way i said I was going to wire it was wrong and your way worked, thank you so much for your help!

 

[jbwilli]

I performed the brown wire mod to my 1997 Ford Explorer Sport years ago! I did it to cure an annoying issue where my 4x4 would kick in 'UNCOMMANDED" on it's on! While driving in normal 4x4 AUTO, the TC would kick into 4x4 at random which causes extreme lurching when driving on dry pavement! I also had the '6 flashing 4x4 warning' display issue. Long story short, this mod adds a switch between the TC 4x4 shift motor and the 4x4 system switch. It prevents the TC from shiifting into 4x4 when in 4x4 AUTO with the switch open. When I want 4x4, i close the switch (only when NOT on dry pavement) and it works normal. via the dash switch. The surprise benefit was being able to get into 2x2 HI or LO by using the dash switch with the brownwire swith OPEN!

Hi Everybody, looking to get a proper post for 2002-2005 explorer/mountaineer brown wire mod. before you say "go search its already been posted before" go look at the past posts for BWM, in my personal opinion as a first time user on this forum it was pretty frustrating going through page after page of nonsense, people arguing, people spewing misinformation, people going off topic, just not being helpful. I don't mean to compare apples to oranges but I've seen better forums byfar.

Back on topic, if we can get a proper post about BWM, best place to locate and splice, what does it do and what's the point of the mod as well as pros and cons, etc. I'm finally getting around to doing this old mod myself and would sincerely appreciate some proper information. thank you in advance to the people who actually want to help out. have a good day yall.

d t

 

[281exploder]

I performed the brown wire mod to my 1997 Ford Explorer Sport years ago! I did it to cure an annoying issue where my 4x4 would kick in 'UNCOMMANDED" on it's on! While driving in normal 4x4 AUTO, the TC would kick into 4x4 at random which causes extreme lurching when driving on dry pavement! I also had the '6 flashing 4x4 warning' display issue. Long story short, this mod adds a switch between the TC 4x4 shift motor and the 4x4 system switch. It prevents the TC from shiifting into 4x4 when in 4x4 AUTO with the switch open. When I want 4x4, i close the switch (only when NOT on dry pavement) and it works normal. via the dash switch. The surprise benefit was being able to get into 2x2 HI or LO by using the dash switch with the brownwire swith OPEN!

d t

this was exactly why I had to do the mod as well I was running in to the same problem! cheers! have a good weekend!