Buying advice 2010 Explorer

[AmberLamps]

Found a one owner/driver Ford Explorer XLT 2010. The truck has 165k miles on it. Back story its a company car that the owner opted to buy out. He is the only driver of the car he says and its pretty much all highway miles as he works in the oil industry and does a lot of driving.

I checked out the car and it looks pretty clean besides chrome on the grill is chipping off and some paint on the top by the racks is starting to fade/chip.

Engine runs smooth. He did recently have the power steering reservoir replaced as the old one was leeking. I noticed underneath the car there was fluid on the drive shaft and drivers side of the frame which i think by smelling and tasting was power steering fluid.

Anyway I have a mobile vehicle inspector checking out the car today. Hoping to get a fairly clean bill of inspection.

Buyer is asking $5500, thinking I can get hom down to $4500 after the inspection.

Do you guys think this is a good purchase if car checks out? Or is it to many miles? Im trying to get 2-3 more years out of the car. I have heard good things about explorers and thinking I should be able to get at least 250k miles from this car right?

Anyways im new here, thanks for any input. I hope I will be a Ford Explorer owner here soon.

 

[Tech By Trade]

If its a V6 I usually wouldn't touch it, but if your sure you only will need it for 2 more years you might be alright.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Yes, big question - what motor as that also determines the transmission.

 

[08EddieCA]

With 165K on the odo, you're right in the sweet spot for replacement of some major parts - tranny, timing chains.... However, you may be able to "fix" some of the items or the X may actually last the two or three years you plan on driving it for.

 

[AmberLamps]

With 165K on the odo, you're right in the sweet spot for replacement of some major parts - tranny, timing chains.... However, you may be able to "fix" some of the items or the X may actually last the two or three years you plan on driving it for.

I was under the impression timing chains dont need replaced. Is that something the mobile inspector will be able to diagnose

 

[AmberLamps]

Its the v6. Why would you avoid 2010 v6 thought that was a reliable year off of some research online.

 

[08EddieCA]

Unless the chains are making noise I don't think he/she would be able to diagnose them as worn. Based on a maintenance schedule the inspector may make note that you should be aware of the possibility they could be worn. I've had good experience with my V6.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Unfortunately any year of 4.0 SOHC is a ticking bomb. Some make it over 200k, some need to replace it around 150k....

 

[ronwc]

This sounds like almost the exact same deal I got on my 08 XLT two years ago. It was owned by an insurance company, fleet maintained, 6 cylinder. Had about 149k miles on it and got it for $4400. Not exactly sure of what all work had been done on it, but was extremely clean. From past experience owning a 94, 00 and 04 XLT 6 I thought it would be very reliable and it has been so far, just turned 175k, quiet and smooth. About the only downside is the gas mileage, which is about 14.5 average, but I can live with that.

 

[AmberLamps]

This sounds like almost the exact same deal I got on my 08 XLT two years ago. It was owned by an insurance company, fleet maintained, 6 cylinder. Had about 149k miles on it and got it for $4400. Not exactly sure of what all work had been done on it, but was extremely clean. From past experience owning a 94, 00 and 04 XLT 6 I thought it would be very reliable and it has been so far, just turned 175k, quiet and smooth. About the only downside is the gas mileage, which is about 14.5 average, but I can live with that.

Thats good to hear. Had an independent mechanic check put the car. He said it looks super clean besides a rear pinion seal that is leeking. He made it sound like its a prety easy fix tho and wont cost to much.

Think im going to buy this truck.

 

[Tech By Trade]

The 4.0L v6 has a major design flaw with the timing chains guides. The repair is only possible by removing the engine and costs upwards of 5k when done at the delearship and also requires specialty tools costing 300 dollars. Shop time is 15 hrs just to remove the engine. Most private shops will not even attempt the repair, and will recommend a donor or refurbished engine. If any "rattle" or "death rattle" is heard when starting the engine cold, or a rattle between 2500 and 3000 rpm when driving, the diagnosis is usually destroyed cassettes. The only way to truly confirm is to pull the valve covers and inspect for damage. The engine is an interference design which means if the chains skip or break the piston will destroy the valves. This will require an entire engine replacement.

 

[Explorer_PL]

....what Tech said, sad but true.
I just bought an 07 v6 few months ago with 116k miles. It's quiet now, but when it's starts rattling, I am not dealing with 3 chains and special tools. Used or re manufactured motor will be ordered. I did timing on my 06 v8, and it was I think about 6 hours with the engine in, and everything in the front, and camshafts have keys in them to time it properly. From what I read, on 4.0 the sprockets spin freely and are set by a bolt ?

 

[Joey Threesticks]

Depends on what you want your weekends to look like. I spend more time under the
hood of my '07 V8 explorer than I did with my '95 Isuzu Rodeo. Wouldn't recommend that car
either unless you're mechanically inclined (unless that's the case, they are super cheap and fun)

Build quality on these cars is iffy- but they are fun/comfy to drive.
Parts are cheap if you can swing a wrench.

At that mileage I'd pass it up, unless it was very cheap.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Yes, the only thing holding the camshaft gears, and jackshaft gears, in place is the friction from the bolt. The torque, if I remember correctly, is 90 lbs plus 25 degrees. The bolts are all torque to yield as well, so if you screw up, you toss them and get new ones. Took me 2 months of dicking around to redo mine and I still have a rattle at 2500 rpm. I think its the primary to jack shaft tensioner or the tensioner on the balance shaft. They are both pretty flimsy and poorly manufactured. My cassettes are both in great shape after 50000k, popped the valve covers for a look a few months back.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Thanks Tech
What a stupid design, will never attempt to go deeper than valve covers on this motor.

 

[AmberLamps]

Well maybe a blessing in disguise? Someone bought it out from under me...the search for a car continues.