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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
Haha simple thing to do but I'm still working on this came down with coronavirus...it was horrible ..probably going to continue this week.. Will post pics after
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Started the truck today! Well haven't finished everything yet....ported intake. New injectors new alot of random stuff. Got to drive a little with no power steering... I don't miss it at all been used to cars with no p/s surprisingly it went great..just going to button er up and I'll keep u guys posted but it went good
Yea I am recovering still, on the first I ended up in the emergency room. Kinda scarey...only 30 years old woke up at 6 am could not move my legs couldn't breathe... Upon arrival sitting next to 200+ body bags next to a military tent with doctors saying they can't do anything for covid patients. Couldn't breathe checked vitals, tested..checked my ripeness. Like a tomatoe. I was positive and sent home...the emergency rooms are at like less than 10% capacity in California...my advice to everyone( take your multivitamins!! If you get coronavirus Tylenol + ibuprofen + cold medicine) I couldn't do anything for days. Planning on donating my antibodies after 2 weeks...no joke out here in populated areas people are saying it's in the air.
No belt with the pressure line going into the return... I'm planning on getting the manual box this month looking at the pitman arm and the steering shaft I'm trying to find a ranger or maybe f150 or something get it done with a parts truck.
Interesting. How much easier is it to turn the wheel with pressure line routed back to return vs normal connection without assist? Or is there essentially no difference?
No different but I didn't want to run it dry and there's just some fluid cycles through there I tried capping them off... Couldn't hardly turn at all but alot easier with them connected to each other.
did you drain it all real good? if you capped it off might have been trying to compress fluid when turning??? possible i guess. Its better than when me and some guys where doing a jeep build got to fire it up made it say 5 feet out of the garage and the steering wheel went crazy and tried to rip your arms off haha, lines where backwards.
Lol I could see that happening I did drain almost all the fluid idk if running it dry would be okay I'll get back to u guys on that I'm afraid if I cap it off all the sudden pressure might build around a random turn and might not make it haha also looking into f150 or other ford boxes.. I'm in quarantine till the 11th not allowed to go searching yet.
You should only need a tiny bit of lube in the rack, if that has one and cap it. Enough to keep it working but not so much it can't move about when you turn. As far as the pump, if it doesn't have the belt on it it doesn't matter its not doing anything. I feel I am missing what you are saying though
Tried draining it REALLY good.... No caps it's okay but capping the return seems to make it stiffer... Put a belt on today and had the fan and water pump spinning backwards going to tool around on it tomorrow. Took a 48 inch belt the wrong way I think it will fit right without the idler pulley...
As Mr. Bill would say, "Nooo!" Actually fine for short-duration, in-garage testing at same temperatures, but...that little idler pulley does some essential work in the belt circuit. I'd not be able to believe that bad things wouldn't happen if left out.
But maybe others here have some direct experience doing this?
Okay yes I got it going but I had to mount the tensioner upsidown and have my girlfriend hold the wrench while I put the belt on its a little tight but I got it done with the same belt..having trouble posting pictures..
still haven't removed the fan but as u can see no power steering no ac 48 inch belt with tensioner upsidown would be about 52 inches with the tensioner mounted right side up.
View attachment 325316still haven't removed the fan but as u can see no power steering no ac 48 inch belt with tensioner upsidown would be about 52 inches with the tensioner mounted right side up.
I'm looking into swapping in a manual gear into my 94 X. Don't know for sure about spline count for input and output shafts on the box. Most places call for a different rag joint on the input side, and I'm not sure on the output side. I plan on looking around in local yards to find all the parts too. Would you have any more pics of the belt setup that you've figured out? Any new developments with the project? Pitfalls of the setup? Other recommendations? Thanks for posting what you have so far.
I have yet to find a pitman arm. The intermediate shaft coupler and gearbox can be had brand spanking new, online. Pitman arm is a tough one though. Also thought i would try to source a ribbed idler pulley to wrap the belt over top of it, and keep tensioner in stock position. Just my .02 first thing is a gear swap and e-fan though. Once I get those ironed out, I'll dedicate more into the p/s delete potential.
I bought a parts Explorer just for the radius arms, I couldn't get them anywhere either.
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I have been rolling around with the stock steering box i'd say the worst part is parallel parking lol I will be getting back at it soon I've just been so busy but yea it is possible to steer with no power steering but definitely way tougher... but without those parts ac/ power steering it is a lot of weight off
I'm just thinking about going this route with a switch
going to tool around on it tomorrow. Took a 48 inch belt the wrong way I think it will fit right without the idler pulley...
