Carbon fiber lsd

[bigred4x4]

Hey guys after viewing a post made earlier it got me thinking on rebuilding my rear end Trac Lok my rear axle is probably the only thing that's never been touched on my ex in 250k miles except for fluid changes. My LS still actually works but not that great on gravel,dirt,snow, sand,pretty much any loose terrain it locks up fine but bound up in a mud rut or on the rocks it's practically useless and doesn't do anything. For a fairly easy job and the relatively low cost of the carbon fiber clutch set from Ford racing I'm thinking about giving it a whirl ......

But I'm wondering if anybody has used them for offroad and what they thought of them . I know it's not a locker but just how aggressive are they? How hard is it to one wheel wonder on the rocks? Is it worth it 100% ? And is there a secret stacking method or special spring needed even with the carbon fiber discs for maximum lock up ? Also how long do they typically last? And..... One last thing is friction modifier a recommendation for my purpose or should I just forget about it. I would like it to be streetable with maximum lock up at the same time offroad.

 

[Rockwood]

I have these in my Ex right now. I highly recommend them hands down. I also use them in my Mustang, My Ex and Stang are over clutched and I run a little less than required friction modifier in the Ex, but I don't drive it daily or far at speed. It will nearly act the same as a pocket locker. Your diff should already have the heavy S spring in it for truck applications. I use this same spring in the Stang as well as over clutching, the locking action in both is very firm, the Ex more so. Just search performance stacking trac lock clutches on google, there are several links and methods from the Corral and TRS as well as several videos on the subject. I have over clutched every trac lock I have owned and several customers and friends and have never had a complaint on operation or workmanship. The carbon fiber set makes it that much better.

 

[bigred4x4]

So with buying just the basic first racing set how do you get the extra clutch?

 

[Rockwood]

So with buying just the basic first racing set how do you get the extra clutch?

you use your old ones, they need to be thinner than the new ones to get the pack seated correctly behind the side gear

 

[bigred4x4]

Ok well for the price and the ease of installation I can't pass this up. One last thing what stacking method did you use for your build and do you remember where you got your info? I'm sure the final stack has to be mic'd correct?

 

[WormsExplorer]

Thanks bigred for asking this question. I have kinda been wondering the same thing that you asked. I like the LS. Had it in my 92 and she did great in the mountains just never got her over really big rocks. I want to do this with my 97 and for my daughters 97 for the front and rear. IF I can get a LS in the front Diff. Then we would almost be unstoppable. LOL. Can't wait to see the results of what you do.

 

[Rockwood]

Ok well for the price and the ease of installation I can't pass this up. One last thing what stacking method did you use for your build and do you remember where you got your info? I'm sure the final stack has to be mic'd correct?

I used the method outlined on the ranger station board

 

[bigred4x4]

Thanks bigred for asking this question. I have kinda been wondering the same thing that you asked. I like the LS. Had it in my 92 and she did great in the mountains just never got her over really big rocks. I want to do this with my 97 and for my daughters 97 for the front and rear. IF I can get a LS in the front Diff. Then we would almost be unstoppable. LOL. Can't wait to see the results of what you do. [/QUOTE




It will be a minute I don't have time or money to do it before my trip coming up in two weeks still have to get my on board heated shower system installed ... I'm doing a thread on that when I get back. But the lsd will probably be next and I'll try to test it the best I can and report back it won't be on rocks for awhile though probably until March or spring time off next year. And as far as the front I think the only lsd they make is the torsen for about $500 but I could be wrong it's not clutch driven so it's actually better though and boomin (local ef member) seems to swear by it hopefully he can make it up there this time and I can see it in action.

 

[WormsExplorer]

I totally know where you are coming from about Money and time. LOL So our Front Diff it is a Dana 35 right?

 

[bigred4x4]

Yes but it's different than the 1st Gen d35 the only differentials that I know of is the torsen, and a few lunch box lockers, and maybe an arb air locker but I could be wrong I thought I heard that somewhere. I would really like to have a built Trac Lok in the rear with the carbon fiber discs and a torsen up front then the only thing stopping her is if she can't get her belly over something. Would want to upgrade the cv's too in the process and add sway bar discos and limit straps, does anybody know of a stronger CV axle that doesn't cost $1000?

 

[WormsExplorer]

That is a Good question.

 

[CDW6212R]

To put more clutches in, you just arrange them friction/steel/friction/steel etc, instead of the stock way that has two steels side by side. It should gain you one friction on each side of the diff.

The Torsen front diff, is somewhat available, they make short runs of them and don't make more until they sell out, and demand creates a new want list. Contact them soon, they had about 20 left when I bought my two. I just need to find time to have them put in my trucks.

 

[bigred4x4]

Ok and just use an old friction as the extra clutch is there any preference on a spot to place the old friction.

 

[bigred4x4]

Also if I use what it's the diff now which is Valvoline full synthetic 75w_140 limited slip formula do I need the friction modifier still? Also anybody test them on the trail? Like if your rear axle is flexed out on an off camber rock step and one tire is about to lift off the ground (this is when my current LS becomes an open diff) or having one side bottomed out in a mud hole tire not touching the bottom of the rut but the other is sitting high and dry with plenty of available traction does it still lock up reliability? If you could put it in a percentage how close is this set up to an actual locker and what conditions does it actually take to see one wheel peel. And is there any chatter while turning tight on the pavement to park or something.

 

[CDW6212R]

The friction modifier is for the clutches to reduce their chattering. I don't know how much less than recommended will help holding power the best, but it's a good idea.

The LS doesn't hold very well compared to a locker, no comparison really. The LS helps in mild situations, like on flat roads with a little snow etc. To know how strong one is, lift one tire off the ground, and then try to turn the other tire with a torque wrench. It'll be in the 50-80lbft range I recall. Off road conditions like a tire off the ground, will need many hundreds of lbft, of holding power, to drive the opposite/grounded tire. The little an LS provides definitely helps, but you guys are on serious conditions compared to simple road usages.

 

[bigred4x4]

I see... well now I'm wondering how big a difference it will be by doing this as old as mine is it still will leave two equal burn out marks in the gravel only notice no lock it in more severe circumstances . I've also read on some hot rod forums that some guys prefer an over clutched ls with stock clutches over the carbon fiber kit in stock configuration and some people even grind the the friction off the clutches and pack out with no steels . Is there a magic number in pack thickness? as doing it over and over until it's as tight as you can get it and put it back together seems like a pain.

 

[bigred4x4]

I just figured with how well it seems to perform with track and drag cars with tons of HP then I would be tickled with the offroad results.

 

[RangerX]

I started wheeling with the stock LS, then put in an Auburn LS, then went to a locker. With the situations you describe, you really want a locker. the trac lok will never be close to a locker, but it will be better than open! So if that's what your budget allows, repack it and go find out what it can and can't do.
CDW is right about the torque rating. I checked mine once after 100,000 miles on the Auburn, and it was still over 100 ft lb, IIRC.
For years I wheeled with front and rear limited slips, and kept up with guys with two lockers, and people assumed I had lockers, so they do add some benefit.

Also, here's the TRS link on rebuilding, if you haven't seen it yet. It's not talking about carbon fiber, but there may still be some info that you can use. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/rebuild_tractionlock.shtml

 

[bigred4x4]

How about the torsen? There is a video on you tube on how it works and it seems like a fancy auto locker seems like a gear would have to skip or strip for it to slip once locked. Also one thing I was thinking on is with a front disco axle will an auto locker cause the ring and pinion to spin from the driver wheel while in 2wd? If so will that cause a drag and pull on the driver side and decrease gas milage?

 

[SWIGIN]

Do you have a new thinner side shim? The stock one that's under the clutch pack is normally too thick when you restack.

I start with a .020'' side shim against the carrier then alternate fiber, steel, till you have 4 fibers instead of 3. Normally with the .020'' shim it will go together real tight (good kind of tight) might have to tap the spiders around to get the pin in.

My Uncle was a Ford mechanic for decades and he says the tighter it goes together the better (less slip) it will work.