Changing head gaskets

[jd4242]

Damn, the factory service manual didn't mention anything about that, that I saw anyway. I popped a rod cap off to see what the bearings looked like since I had the oil pan off. Re-used the nuts. I don't want to tear it apart again just for that. I torqued them down to the higher end of spec. I don't mind replacing the harmonic balancer bolt, that one's easy. I'll re-use the one for now, since I'll be back in the front of the engine for a fan clutch and pulleys in the near future.

Think I'll be alright?

Yea.lots of people reuse the rod bolts, ford doesnt even make them anymore.you have to use arp 302 rod bolts..the crank is probably fine unless you used it like 3-4 times putting the pulley on..its only like a $8 bolt from ford so honestly if you get time it might be worth it.typically they fail when removing or installing it..the threads will physically pull apart and be very difficult to remove or install..never head of one failing once installed and pulley falling off or anything. .they fail when I stalling then next time when you remove it, it will fall apart and IF it comes out your need to chase the shaft with a tap..thats if..ive seen them break in the crank

 

[sirhk100]

Back bolt is a pia..my bar just fits on it with small extension. .

I'll have to see what sort of neat trick tools my uncle has I can borrow for that one...

V8 swaps arnt that easy either but in long run they are probably better..with good heads and proper care the v6 ohv is a beast though, just about bullet proof besides heads..

LOL, I didn't mention that this LS I'm rebuilding is mounted in my F150 did I?

In reality, more work then I want... I've never felt the need for more power, reliability is 100% key for me and my needs.



Thanks for all the replies this morning by the way!


Oh, I didn't even crack the driver side head off the engine. I knew my issue was pass side related so I just pulled that one only. Allowed me to leave my AC system sealed up...

 

[jd4242]

I'll have to see what sort of neat trick tools my uncle has I can borrow for that one...




LOL, I didn't mention that this LS I'm rebuilding is mounted in my F150 did I?

In reality, more work then I want... I've never felt the need for more power, reliability is 100% key for me and my needs.



Thanks for all the replies this morning by the way!


Oh, I didn't even crack the driver side head off the engine. I knew my issue was pass side related so I just pulled that one only. Allowed me to leave my AC system sealed up...

F150 is TOTALLY different. ..

Personally id pull both..matter of time for other..you can just mkve the compressor outa the way without draining it..

 

[natenkiki2004]

Yea.lots of people reuse the rod bolts, ford doesnt even make them anymore.you have to use arp 302 rod bolts..the crank is probably fine unless you used it like 3-4 times putting the pulley on..its only like a $8 bolt from ford so honestly if you get time it might be worth it.typically they fail when removing or installing it..the threads will physically pull apart and be very difficult to remove or install..never head of one failing once installed and pulley falling off or anything. .they fail when I stalling then next time when you remove it, it will fall apart and IF it comes out your need to chase the shaft with a tap..thats if..ive seen them break in the crank

Alright. This was the first time the balancer was ever off the engine but I did use an impact to help seat the pulley with the bolt. I think I'll pull it back out since I couldn't get final torque on it and just take a look and maybe loctite it until I get a new one. Thanks for the wisdom jd

 

[jd4242]

Alright. This was the first time the balancer was ever off the engine but I did use an impact to help seat the pulley with the bolt. I think I'll pull it back out since I couldn't get final torque on it and just take a look and maybe loctite it until I get a new one. Thanks for the wisdom jd

If you pull it out I wouldnt reuse it especially if you used a impact. .impact tend to stretch them worse..locktite wont help..technically you need to chase the threads in the crank then oil the bolt before installing. .this is same for head bolts...without oil a tty bolt wont stretch properly to final tq..

 

[jd4242]

Very important step..

http://www.felpro-only.com/proper-installation-use-t-t-y-bolts/

 

[natenkiki2004]

jd, according to Ford Parts, the one I need is 6A340. I found E7RY6A340B which looks like it's for the SOHC 4.0L and should be backwards compatible. Do you have any idea if this is the pulley bolt I need? Thanks.

 

[jd4242]

jd, according to Ford Parts, the one I need is 6A340. I found E7RY6A340B which looks like it's for the SOHC 4.0L and should be backwards compatible. Do you have any idea if this is the pulley bolt I need? Thanks.

They both use same pulley and bolt 99% sure..ill see if I can find my notes for number but ive posted it on here a couple times...the later models have a longer key in the crankshaft, doesnt effect pulley tho

 

[natenkiki2004]

Yea, I read about the longer key. I would imagine the pulley and bolt would be the same though. The base part numbers are the same, it's just the manufacture year and application that's different.

 

[sirhk100]

Uncle is leaning against not the head. Basically this thing went from small puffs of white on occasion and blue on occasion to a week ago today flat out leaving a blue fog for about 20 seconds on startup and then reducing down to just a minor blue smoke. Leaning towards rings on that one cylinder. The crappy part though, to get the oil pan, the motor pretty much has to come out... Thoughts? I'm really tempted to just say screw it, yank the motor, do a full set of rings, and both heads with those ones on that ebay link.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170434742301?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Are these heads the same left and right? I don't see anywhere on that auction where it says to note which side you want if they're not...

Any thoughts... I'm a bit bummed!!! It's not necessarily the money, it's the work and some other pressing issues I need to take care of that's weighing a bit heavy on me right now! Need to get the chevy motor together, now this expo and I also have a toyota race truck I need to do a full rear axle swap on and new rear shock setup before the Mint 400 in March...

 

[jd4242]

Heads are same left and right.those are the heads I use btw..lol

 

[natenkiki2004]

The crappy part though, to get the oil pan, the motor pretty much has to come out... Thoughts?

Yep, that's why my motor came out, oil pan gasket leak. Big task for a silly thing. At least it'll let you overhaul a few other things and prevent issues in the future.

 

[vq5speed]

Uncle is leaning against not the head. Basically this thing went from small puffs of white on occasion and blue on occasion to a week ago today flat out leaving a blue fog for about 20 seconds on startup and then reducing down to just a minor blue smoke. Leaning towards rings on that one cylinder.
.

Are you sure you had white smoke and not just condensation on cold mornings. Cause its normal to have white like smoke in the morning until your Cat converter heats up and then that whitish looking smoke will stop. I also had blue smoke sometimes on start up. when setting at a light then take off leaving a big cloud of blue smoke. I thought my rings were getting blowby too. I knew it wasn't my valve seals cause I have new heads. One day I was reading some info about making a oil catch jar off my PCV valve. Then it came to me all sudden when was the last time my PCV valve been changed if ever. I don't know if it ever has been changed. So a light bulb when off in my head hey this might be my oil burning problem. Well I went to remove my PCV valve and sure enough it was cruded up and oil was getting sucked right through it. there was oil in the hose that goes into the intake manifold. Now since I put a new PCV valve on guess what no more blue smoke. I'm happy camper and all this time I thought my rings were getting bad. I went ahead and made a oil catch jar as a back up if my PCV valve starts to let oil pass again.

 

[sirhk100]

Definitely white smoke and smelled of antifreeze the times it happened. And last week when it smoked blue, I'm talking a cloud so big and thick you couldn't see thru it for a good 20 seconds on startup and then once it went away it would be enough that with a tail wind I could see hints of it blowing past me sitting at a stop light.

Other tell tale sign, bottom of the valve cover on the side with the questionable cylinder had mustard colored oil up in it, water was obviously getting up into the top side of the heads...

Pulled the motor last night, popped the piston out of the questionable cylinder, oil ring is plugged solid with crud. Chrome on the compression rings also is almost completely worn off as well. Rod bearings show wear with most of the coating off of them as well. I think it was definitely the right time to do this...

Basically at this point, I'm popping a pair of new heads on it, new rings, new seals. Also doing a new slave/throwout bearing and new clutch too while it's all out.


Yes, it'll be on a stand tonight, my engine stand already has a Chevy 6.0L that I'm also currently rebuilding, picking up a loaner stand tonight on my way home...

 

[jd4242]

I dont know your funds but rock auto sells a crankshaft thats already been machined and comes with bearings. .also look into a mellings m328 pump, good to replace it with a good HV one now you have the bottom opened. .good hone job, clean pistons and rings, your have new motor

ooo if funds are there may look into a cam

 

[sirhk100]

Actually current parts list is with plans to purchase tonight or tomorrow...

Pair of heads off ebay

funny you mention rock auto, just placed a $500 order for the chevy from them yesterday. For this one from them I'm looking at...
Rering kit
head bolts
exedy clutch kit.

Curious, I need a new throw out bearing and clutch for sure. Looking last night it looked like the throwout was part of the slave cylinder. But on rock auto I'm seeing clutch release bearings which makes me think it is replaceable seperate from the slave cylinder assembly? Is that true? Also, a step further, it sure looks like in the picture on the rockauto page for that exedy clutch kit that the pilot and throwout bearing is included. Anyone know? It's an exedy kit p/n 07077




Not really looking for any performance stuff and considering xmas shopping, the chevy rebuild and this one.. I'm not doing anything really extra. I'm willing to spend the extra money to do it right but not really looking to toss extra goodies just cause I want them in the mix so as much as I'd like to do a cam and maybe some head work while I'm here I've got to pass this time around. I'm already at about $600'ish on that list above as is on top of yesterday's order plus holiday shopping this weekend. OUCH!!! LOL

I am going to check out that oil pump though, depending on the price seems like a worthwhile deal while it's open considering what's involved to get to it once installed. LOL

The rod bearigns are already .010 undersized and the piston we already found to be .030/.75mm oversized. When I bought this explorer it came with reciepts for a remaned engine so... The crank though still looks to be in excellent shape, at least the one we pulled the rod off from last night. Once we pull the rest I'll decide if I want/need to do more then that list above or not.

 

[mr cribb]

Go ahead and buy a motorcraft slave cylinder. It will be worth it in the end.

There should be a vendor on here that gives employee pricing on dealer parts. When I bought one 3 years ago there was and it saved me about 60 dollars and it was shipped. The parts store variety are cheap and tend to leak after about 20 thousand miles.

 

[jd4242]

Starters its odd about the piston being so worn or cause..the bottom ends are normally bullet proof..normally most people still see hatching and its within spec 100k+..ive had a bunch apart and none had bottom end damage, just slight wear..hell honestly ive never heard of a bottom end going out unless water was introduce and ran for long periods. ..which if you said you did find milkshake in the valve cover and you have been driving it with noticeable smoke for awile, could be why..if thats the case every bearing in it should be replaced. .or least plastigauge....if the rings are bad then more than likely so is the walls

Just odd a ""reman"" motor would have problems in bottom end and that it doesnt have aftermarket heads..


100% agree on a ford slave...

 

[sirhk100]

To clarify, the pistons themselves look fine. The cylinders show more wear then the 131K Chevy motor I just pulled apart but that could be bow tie vs. blue oval cylinder materials. You can still see the hone marks on the cylinder walls but they're glazed over a TON more then the Chevy I just pulled apart. I've never noticed discolored oil on dipstick or during oil changes, just a very slight discolored sludge up on on the top of the valve covers.

I'll get some detailed pictures tonight and post up tomorrow what I've got on my hands.

Plastiguage is on the shopping list 100% for sure already as well!



Here's the interesting thing... Reciepts show the reman engine installed at 99K in '08. Guy I bought it from had 5 cars, said this expo was just what he used to take the dogs out duck hunting in and didn't see much use. The overall condition of the expo other then dog hair seemed to validate his story. The odo right now has 45K on it though, so we're talking either 47K miles in 6 years or 147K in 6 years. The story and my gut feeling is it's the 47K mark but the engine screams 147K if not more on it. All the reciepts I have for the work match the vin and stuff though, it was this expo, work done at a ford dealer even. I have paper work for the transmission being done at the same dealer in '07. I bought it 2 years ago now if I remember correctly.

WHen I bought it...

And 8 weeks later... LOL

Yes, same rig... Slightly modified! LOL

 

[jd4242]

Good looking rig