changing spark plugs

[psychotic]

Hey I'm only 16, and so far I've lowered my X 4 inches front/ 2 inches back and i've installed an K&N FIPK. would changing spark plugs be harder than any of this? I have 100000 miles on it, and the spark plugs have NEVER been removed. My parents are afraid of one breaking when i try to take it out and having to pay lots more for repair, can anyone see this as a problem?? Also, any tips on getting to some of the hard to reach plugs... i have a 96 4.0 OHV. Oh, one more thing... is a torque rachet/wrench(??) needed?

 

[variable]

I didn't have any trouble with the spark plugs - but I had the engine mostly taken apart when I changed them. It still isn't all that hard.

Torque wrench isn't really required. You'll need a spark plug socket though.

And a word of caution - if you decide to replace the wires, make note of their original layout... it's not the way you think it should be. Wasn't on my 1992 anyways.

 

[psychotic]

what do you mean by original layout..... i plan doing 1 wire at a time so they don't get mixed, are you talking about something else?

 

[88vert]

It will help on the back one passenger side if you go through the wheel well to get at it,I just changed plugs in my buddys 97 last week took me about 45 min.

 

[Mascman]

Hey, when I was greasing my caliper slides I changed my spaerk plugs. Since the wheel was off, I could just reach in and change the plugs. I have a 3" body lift and this made it a simple job. Maybe you can see if you have enough room to go through the fenderwell. While you have the wheel off, clean and regrease the caliper slides while you're at it. I think there is info in the Tech Tips.

Again, having the body lift made changing plugs simple. It may be harder to do at stock...worth a try though.

Just change one wire at a time like you are planning and you can't go wrong...have fun!

 

[psychotic]

heh, i have a 3 inch body drop but maybe i can still get in somehow and get 'em changed out.

 

[psychotic]

I have a regular torque wrench, but it won't fit down to the back spark plug, will anything horribly wrong happen if i over/under tighten the spark plug?

 

[aldive]

Get it good and snug; you "should" be ok. Too lose can ve trouble though.

Good luck.....

 

[psychotic]

thanks, i put the torque wrench in a vise to get a feel for 15 lbs of torque, it isn't as hard as i thought... i figured to put it in there til its tight and snug, but not to keep tightening til i can't anymore.... hope it turns out ok

 

[jimbo74]

psychotic, a 3" body drop? or a suspension drop? a 3" boddy drop involves hacking off the floor and cutting then rewelding it all together.... seems like a hell of a lot of work..... i see pick ups that are body dropped but never an suv other than the mainstream escalade or yukon

 

[psychotic]

i used torsion bars on the front, block on the rear. for the front i had to take out the torsion bar, take off the adjuster, flip it over, and then put it all back in. for the back i just disconnected the axle from the frame, put blocks between the axle and leaf springs then moved the axle around til everything fell into place. For some reason my dad doesn't like helping on this, and it ended up a 1 man job. BTW, i'm bad with spelling... axle, or axel?

 

[Mascman]

Apply Anti-sieze to the threads.

If you are changing the plugs, get some anti-sieze and apply it to the threads of your plugs (which you've already gapped...right?).
Put the plug in untill you cannot turn by hand anymore and them tighten about a half turn.
If you are installing new wires, use Dielectric Grease on both ends.
Some preventative maintenance now will help later!

Just some advice!

 

[psychotic]

i have bosch +4s... which, you can't gap.... i put the dielectric sylicone on both ends of the wires... i didn't put the anti-sieze on anything... what does it do anyways?

 

[aldive]

Makes it easier to fet the plugs out next time,

 

[psychotic]

it has 100,000 miles, i don't think there will be another time