Check Air Ride System

[CDW6212R]

The compressor is right above the spare tire mounting.

FYI, there is a normal clicking sound, when the ARC system is checking the ride height. It sounds like two clicks a couple of seconds apart. It does that even when the height is correct. You can make it do that or function by turning the key ON/OFF, closing the doors, and standing on the rear bumper. Typically that will make the ARC compressor turn on. Regards,

 

[4x4man]

The compressor is right above the spare tire mounting.

FYI, there is a normal clicking sound, when the ARC system is checking the ride height. It sounds like two clicks a couple of seconds apart. It does that even when the height is correct. You can make it do that or function by turning the key ON/OFF, closing the doors, and standing on the rear bumper. Typically that will make the ARC compressor turn on. Regards,

Great CDW6212R - thanks a lot my friend for great picture and information

 

[CDW6212R]

Try to inspect your air lines carefully. If you can find any leaks or looseness at the joints, changing them is a good option. I bought new lines from Ford for both the front and rear sections. I know that those were inexpensive from Ford, I didn't check on the center section line because I decided to only use the rear part. I do have the front lines still in the Ford box, it was only about $20.

 

[4x4man]

Try to inspect your air lines carefully. If you can find any leaks or looseness at the joints, changing them is a good option. I bought new lines from Ford for both the front and rear sections. I know that those were inexpensive from Ford, I didn't check on the center section line because I decided to only use the rear part. I do have the front lines still in the Ford box, it was only about $20.

Thanks again my friend.

If I got my shock absorbers until next weekend, I'll probably and hopefully get access to a repair shop from a friend and will do the check.
I'll let you know how it worked out

 

[4x4man]

CDW6212R:
Just want to confirm the ARC compressor turns on fine, so I'm really exited to see if everything is working fine after replacing the shock absorbers to the weekend.

Keep you posted

Cheers
Frank

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good Frank, there are a bunch of parts in the ARC system. It's easier to keep up with it when it does try to work.

 

[4x4man]

It sure looks like the ARC got a bunch of surrounding parts to make it all work CDW6212R, and tomorrow I hopefully will get a diagnose readout from a friend.
Really exited to see the results.

Just got hold of the work shop manual and that really is a goodie

Frank.

 

[Michiganbear]

As an ex-Continental (with functioning air ride) owner, I can help some here. I am not real familiar with the exact parts of the explorer air ride, but they do function in pretty much the same way as the Lincolns do.

be happy you only have to pay 160 or so for shocks.. my 91 continental, each strut (air struts, which are air spring and dynamic damping shock in one assy), are around 400 each for OEM. aftermarket rebuilds usually have no dynamic damping feature on them, so they are quite inferior on many ways. The coil spring replacements avail for Lincolns are also somewhat mixed in quality.

 

[CDW6212R]

The trick with Lincolns is to have lots of spare parts. My friend and I have owned about seven Mark VII's between us. Repairs have cost nothing fortunately, the bags have the air valves fail on them occasionally.

FYI, I discovered a company which services most of the Ford air compressors. The Explorer is a little different with different rubber mounts, and the dryer has two outlets. I fabricated new rubber mounts that are far better than stock, which you can't get anyway. The dryer's cost about $40, and the lines can still be had from Ford. The air line solenoids We have never seen fail, but those are surely obsolete also.

 

[Michiganbear]

The trick with Lincolns is to have lots of spare parts. My friend and I have owned about seven Mark VII's between us. Repairs have cost nothing fortunately, the bags have the air valves fail on them occasionally.

FYI, I discovered a company which services most of the Ford air compressors. The Explorer is a little different with different rubber mounts, and the dryer has two outlets. I fabricated new rubber mounts that are far better than stock, which you can't get anyway. The dryer's cost about $40, and the lines can still be had from Ford. The air line solenoids We have never seen fail, but those are surely obsolete also.

I wonder if ford ever changed the design of the solenoid?? if not, then just about any lincoln solenoid will work. If I recall, all the solenoids where the same across the lincoln lines, for the most part.

dryers can be had for a little less, or you can even refurb it yourself if you want. if you get stuck with a 4 line dryer, all you gotta do is loop a piece of line from one outlet to another and that will seal them 2 holes, leaving the other 2 open for use. all the holes just go into the same chamber in the dryer.

 

[CDW6212R]

My new dryer is a four hole, they sent two plugs for the spare holes. The ARC system for the rears only(99-01) has just one air solenoid and the rear height sensor. The 96-98 ARC systems have two height sensors and three air solenoids. The Mark VII solenoids are part of each air bag while on the Explorer they are mounted separately on the frame.

 

[4x4man]

Michiganbear:
I paid $126 for each rear absorber, and $195 each for front (all Motorcraft)

CDW6212R:
Did a DTC today and the ARC locks great with no errors

Got some other codes Im checking up on, and wondering a bit on the B1352 (Ignition Key-In Circuit Failure)


Others like:
P1780 (Transmission Control switch (TCS) circuit out of Self-Test range)
P1703 (Brake On/Off (BOO) switch out of Self-Test range)
P1408 (Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) flow out of Self-Test range)
P0401 (Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) flow insufficient detected)

Cheers
Frank

 

[CDW6212R]

Those prices sound like near retail, my rear shocks were about $95 each. That EGR code is the one to wonder about affecting mileage or efficiency etc. The others should be minor like electrical contact issues.

 

[4x4man]

Those prices sound like near retail, my rear shocks were about $95 each. That EGR code is the one to wonder about affecting mileage or efficiency etc. The others should be minor like electrical contact issues.

I knew there was something wrong about the high consume of fuel, still after changing old sparks, wires and air filter.
A lot better, but still to high though I think.

Could this hose cause the problem of the circulation (se pictures below).
It's not much opening for the water to circulate, so I will replace it asap.
Kind of hard to see, but on the back of the hose it's all squeezed.
What do you think CDW6212R ?
Other thoughts?

Cheers from a greatful new user of this superb board
Frank.

 

[CDW6212R]

That hose is crimped too much, and that is somewhat common with the short bypass hoses near the thermostat. That may affect the coolant temperature but not the fuel mileage in a large way.

I would agree with you about changing that hose. May I suggest that you test fit the new hose first. I always test fit the short bypass hoses because they often are crimper when installed in their stock dimensions. I usually trim off one end to get the hose to seat more naturally. The curve should remain in the same shape when installed, so make the end a little shorter if needed.

 

[4x4man]

Very good Frank, there are a bunch of parts in the ARC system. It's easier to keep up with it when it does try to work.

The shock absorbers replaced and the car is totally changed from good to excellent
The ARC is working great, and the noise I heard earlier under the floor that I thought was some transmission noise is now gone.
I'm pretty sure it was the rear left absorber making it, so I'm really happy these days

The next project will be to replace both of the leaf springs since the left one is not so good.
Tomorrow I also going to replace my airfilter with the K&N Fuel Injection Performance Kit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=KNN%2D57%2D2536&N=700+0&autoview=sku

CDW6212R:
Do you have any suggestion what to do/check regarding the:
P1408 (Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) flow out of Self-Test range)
P0401 (Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) flow insufficient detected)

Have a nice day.

Cheers from
Frank in Norway.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's great Frank, most people give up on the air suspension before doing any work to it.

For those EGR codes I would look hard at the DPFE sensor, clean the EGR valve, and just inspect it all well. Usually it's those things that cause those codes.

For the air cleaner I would avoid the K&N filters. They have had great reputations for years, but just last year I discovered a test comparing filters. K&N and similar filters do flow well, but don't filter well. I also learned that almost all contaminants(dirt etc.) in oil come through the air filter. It's worth it to find the best filtering air filters. I don't know what is available for the 95-97 Explorers, those have a few less options. I use a Volant air cleaner with an Amsoil filter in it. The Amsoil filters are great filters themselves, expensive, and last four years(dry, vacuum once per year). Regards,

 

[4x4man]

That's great Frank, most people give up on the air suspension before doing any work to it.

For those EGR codes I would look hard at the DPFE sensor, clean the EGR valve, and just inspect it all well. Usually it's those things that cause those codes.

For the air cleaner I would avoid the K&N filters. They have had great reputations for years, but just last year I discovered a test comparing filters. K&N and similar filters do flow well, but don't filter well. I also learned that almost all contaminants(dirt etc.) in oil come through the air filter. It's worth it to find the best filtering air filters. I don't know what is available for the 95-97 Explorers, those have a few less options. I use a Volant air cleaner with an Amsoil filter in it. The Amsoil filters are great filters themselves, expensive, and last four years(dry, vacuum once per year). Regards,

Hi and thanks for quick reply.

I will do I properly inspection on the DPFE sensor as well as cleaning the EGR valve as you said my friend.
Need to study the repair manual hard to locate the sensor and valve, and to learn more about it's system.

Worries me that you didn't recommend the K&N filter as I order it from the US..hmm. I just have to make a routine in cleaning the filter then...often.

Also I will replace the squeezed hose soon.

I'll let you know CDW6212R Frank

 

[CDW6212R]

You can surely buy another air filter for that nice K&N kit, it's just something else. I think that your truck has a device for the EGR with a different name than DPFE. I don't know what it's called, but it's right next to the EGR. Try checking the EGR vacuum diaphram first, and see if it's dirty. Regards,

 

[4x4man]

You can surely buy another air filter for that nice K&N kit, it's just something else. I think that your truck has a device for the EGR with a different name than DPFE. I don't know what it's called, but it's right next to the EGR. Try checking the EGR vacuum diaphram first, and see if it's dirty. Regards,

Ok..so you mean that I should/could replace the filter in the K&N with another one?
Please send me a link to what you recommend and will fit CDW6212R, and I will order it the next time I'm make an order from the US.

I will soon get under my car the do the inspection

Frank