Clicking sound after replacing bushings

[Maniak]

Well, the pass side outer u-joint has about 1/4" of play, and I think one of the boots is off. I mean, it is the worst I have ever seen. The driver's side is all good, and I would really like to not have to mess with it... So after I get the spindle off, I just tug and pull on the shaft to try and get the slip joint free, or is there another trick?

Thanks again for your help!

That boot holds onto the axle more than you expect. You need to get the boot off first, then yank, pull, swear etc at the shaft. You may even try spraying some pb-blaster type stuff into the slip joint since it is probably very dry and corroded. Here is the "boot" location I'm talking about. This is ours with the rack and pinion bellows boot over the slip joint.

finished c-clip eliminator by maniak_az, on Flickr

You can see how dry/corroded it gets. This pic is from our '92 and we live in Southern Az where there is no rust. That pile of "dust" on the ground came from that slip joint. I can't imagine how it would be in some place where they were rust.

Beam and axle shaft by maniak_az, on Flickr


~Mark

 

[ranger-93]

I'm pretty sure I'm one of the lucky ones that I got the outter shaft off the inner shaft including the boot just by yanking and pulling on the outter shaft and it popped out. Again I'm pretty sure that doesn't happen to often. And it will fit throught the hole after it is lose, you might have to wiggle and turn it while pulling it through but like Maniak said, it will fit. And you dont have to necessarily take the inner shaft out to change the innermost u-joint BUT if you don't it will be an absolute PITA and you will swear at it more than you probably ever have lol but I've done it with it still in the pumpkin. And since you already have the RA bracket rivets replaced with bolts it will honestly be a lot easier and more than likely quicker to just pull the pumpkin off and remove the c-clip to get the inner shaft out.

 

[Dendro_4.6]

Okay, I will try to get the slip joints, and will soak it in PB blaster (as I have for every friggen bolt on this truck) and see if I can't get it to pull. If not, then I will head to harbor freight and pick up a spring compression tool so I can pull the RA. I am assuming it is the pass side RA that needs pulled? Also, the boot over the slip joint won't be an issue, that thing is long gone, with only about an inch of it left on the shaft.

Another question... if I drop the pumpkin with the pass side shaft still inside, will the joints be enough play for it to drop without damaging the shaft?

 

[Dendro_4.6]

Also... you guys are awesome! I'm a Mustang guy, and this is my first 4x4 that I have worked on... hence the "4.6" in my profile name.

 

[ragajungle]

When I did the passenger side ball joints on my 89 B2 I wound up having to sawzall the halh shaft out (YES I KNOW, I KNOW--I coulda dropped the pumpkin, but it was sunday night and I needed it Monday Morn for work and the slip shaft was totally seized...

Anyways I hope for you it comes off, but mine was OEM from Wisconsin for 22 years. Not fun. Anyways, I hope you plan on replacing the upper and lower Ball Joints as long as you habe it off -

 

[Dendro_4.6]

When I did the passenger side ball joints on my 89 B2 I wound up having to sawzall the halh shaft out (YES I KNOW, I KNOW--I coulda dropped the pumpkin, but it was sunday night and I needed it Monday Morn for work and the slip shaft was totally seized...

Anyways I hope for you it comes off, but mine was OEM from Wisconsin for 22 years. Not fun. Anyways, I hope you plan on replacing the upper and lower Ball Joints as long as you habe it off -

So did you end up replacing the shaft, or did you just weld it? Not that I will go that route, just curious.

Also, how did you try to pull the slip joint... just by pulling hard on the shaft, or by use of hammer? I was thinking about building a puller that would bolt around the shaft, welding a nut on each side, and having a stop plate on another clamp on the other side of the slip joint, and running bolts through the welded bolts that would pull on the shaft. Then unbolting it all after the shafts are out.

 

[Dendro_4.6]

What I am thinking of doing, since it won't take long at all, is weld two flanges to the drive axle just past the slip joint (on the knuckle side at 3 o-clock and 6 o-clock of the sharft), and I can take two hammers and hit the shaft outward toward the knuckle. I can hang some hangers to catch the shaft (so it doesn't pop out and bust me in the face), and then cut and grind down the welds. Only question I have about that, is how much force can the c-clip in the pumpkin take?

 

[ranger-93]

Okay, I will try to get the slip joints, and will soak it in PB blaster (as I have for every friggen bolt on this truck) and see if I can't get it to pull. If not, then I will head to harbor freight and pick up a spring compression tool so I can pull the RA. I am assuming it is the pass side RA that needs pulled? Also, the boot over the slip joint won't be an issue, that thing is long gone, with only about an inch of it left on the shaft.

Another question... if I drop the pumpkin with the pass side shaft still inside, will the joints be enough play for it to drop without damaging the shaft?

You don't have to actually take the RA all the way off. What I mean by removing the RA is taking the big nut off the back of the RA or just removing the bracket that is bolted to the frame that holds the RA. To remove the pumpkin there is a pinch bolt on the drivers side of the pumpkin that has to be removed in order to pull the pumpkin back after taking out the 10 cover bolts. The DRIVERS SIDE (not pass side) RA is in the way of the pinch bolt so without moving the drivers side RA to the side that pinch bolt will not come out which wont allow the pumpkin to be removed to get to the c-clip.

Im not sure if there is enough play in the u-joints to set the pumpkin on the ground or not but Im sure a floor jack would come in handy

 

[Dendro_4.6]

If it comes to that, I will be sure to do it. Since I already have it so the RA bracket can come off easily, that will be a big help. Hopefully I can get the slip joint to come free and not have to. I'm thinking making it so I can hammer it out will do the trick. If not, then out goes the pumpkin. I will get under there once my back heals up some. I seemed to have strained it over the past few days under the truck. Oh, how I love getting old!

 

[ranger-93]

Sounds good. Remember to report back and give us results. Good luck

 

[Dendro_4.6]

Thanks man! Let's hope the c-clip can take the hammering!

 

[ranger-93]

If not...C-CLIP ELEMINATOR!!!!!!

 

[Dendro_4.6]

Yes, I will def do that if I have to pull (or happen to break off and have to fish out) the c-clip. Finger's crossed that I can get the slip joint out. I'll soak it the next few days with PB Blaster, then weld the brackets so I can hammer that SOB!

 

[Dendro_4.6]

Yep, that slip joint is pretty much welded together... So, besides the long bolt, will I be able to drop the pumpkin without having to remove anything? It looks like I can pull it towards the back of the truck onto a jack, and then lower it down enough to get inside and remove the c-clip. It looks like it will be tight, so that is why I am asking before hand. I have the front drive shaft off, the drivers side short shaft off, and all the bolts out of the pumpkin, so I am ready to remove the pumpkin and drop her down. Also, how did you get the slip joint off when you had it out? Did you just vice the shaft and slide a hammer down? I'm debating on taking the slip joint off or just re-installing the c-clip. I'm looking to get 2 more years out of this truck. Engines I know... but some of this is a first.

Thanks!

 

[ranger-93]

I got lucky with my slip joint as I was able to yank on the pass. side shaft a few times and it popped out. As for getting the joint apart my only idea I can think of right now is to put the inner shaft in a vice really tight and get a metal bar thats strong enough and put it on the outter shaft where they connect and get a BFH and go to town. Other than that I guess just re-install the c-clip. But as far as pulling the pumpkin it sounds like all you need to do now is move the drivers side RA, remove that pinch bolt and pull the pumpkin back.


EDIT: It should fit when you pull it back.

 

[Maniak]

Sounds like you have it now so with one more bolt (vertical one) you will be able to break the seal and pull the pumpkin back (every one I've seen is held on with rtv too).

As for separating the slip joint. we used the vice/hammer method once we had it out..

If your in a hurry, your probably going to put the c-clip back in.. Finding the right spring locally doesn't normally happen. I don't think I've heard of anyone finding it local.. I do really like not having a c-clip. Makes it much easier to pull the axle if I ever need to.

~Mark

 

[Dendro_4.6]

Thanks you guys! I actually don't have to pull the RA, as whomever pulled the pumpkin last put the bolt upsidedown so the nut is at the bottm, and there is just enough clearance to push the bolt up past the upper part of the RA, and there is a 2mm notch in the RA that someone made... seems like someone before me did some work, but they sure a heck didn't change the u-join while they had it off. I will post some pics of this u-joint when I have it pulled... it is by far the worst I have ever seen. I measured the play, and there is 0.21" of play in it... darn near a 1/4"

I also think I found out what the clicking noise may have been. The driver's side upper ball joint clicks when I shake the knuckle back and forth. I did see that I have an oil leak on the driver's side head (prolly from seafoam application), so I will ahve to monitor the oil level the next few weeks, but removing the heads in this truck isn't much at all if I have to. Gotta love pushrod motors!

 

[Dendro_4.6]

So, everything is going back together well (although the u-joints gave me some crap) my question is about the camber bushing. Do I hammer the camber bushing down flush to the knuckle in the same postion it was? If so, the snap ring on the new upper ball joint will be higher than the camber bushing, so the camber bushing won't even touch the snap ring...

 

[Dendro_4.6]

Well, I finally got the time to finish the truck, and not a pop, clunk, click... just needs a slight alignment.

Thanks to everyone that helped me out and the resources on this site!

Derek