Climate control always hot

[oblivionboyj]

I have done a bit of looking around, and I think I found a description similar to the problem I am seeing.
I just wanted to make sure that the problem is the one it seems you guys indicate it is.

When I got into the truck for the first time I tried the heating and cooling systems they both seemed to work just fine.
I tried the heat first and it blew hot when the truck warmed up, then I switched it over to AC and it blew cold.
I turned off the truck for a few minutes and it has been hot, regardless of the position of the temperature control, ever since.
When the blower is on it is very hot.
When the heater is shut off it bleeds a little bit of hot into the cabin.
This isnt much of an issue for now as it is starting to get cold here.
In late winter and spring I am really going to want to be able to control the temperature at will.
Next summer I would like to use the AC.
Does this sound like the problem where the door on the heat exchanger get stuck in one position or another?
Can someone link me to a thread where a fixes are discussed?
What is the cost/time of fixing this problem?
Thanks in advance for your replies

 

[rhauf]

it's the blend door actuator

the part costs about $50 - $80, they always fail. I haven't replaced one in an explorer, but i did one in a windstar van and it was pretty easy. i'm sure there is a writeup on here somewhere on how to do it.

 

[oblivionboyj]

I found an actuator on eBay for $37 shipped, which doesn't seem too bad.
Before I go on, how sure are you that it is the actuator and not the door itself?
While I am in there would I be best off replacing both the door and the actuator to prevent the need to go in there again before too long, or should I leave the door alone until/if it becomes a problem?

 

[RomeovilleIL]

I found an actuator on eBay for $37 shipped, which doesn't seem too bad.
Before I go on, how sure are you that it is the actuator and not the door itself?
While I am in there would I be best off replacing both the door and the actuator to prevent the need to go in there again before too long, or should I leave the door alone until/if it becomes a problem?

My personal opinion is replace just the broken since the new pieces haven't been redesigned or improved. If you find a broken blend door, I recommend the bottom cut method as the most quick and effective. There are plenty of good threads with pics here on the forum.

Before you buy an actuator, I suggest you check to be sure it's not working. All you need is a flat blade screwdriver. Drop the glove box by squeezing in the sides. You will see the actuator on the left top of the airbox. You can remove it by gently prying up the front corners with the screwdriver. The rear can be lifted by sliding the screwdriver underneath the actuator. Once lifted off, turn ignition key to on, turn on any of the air controls (vent, floor, defrost), then slowly turn the temp all the way from cold to hot and back. If the actuator is working, you will see the white plastic rod in the middle turning. If nothing happens you need a new actuator. For what it's worth, the dorman model ($50 from Napa) did NOT work with my 98. The factory actuator from the dealership for $70 which did work looked exactly the same. Might have been an EATC thing, but computer did not recognize the aftermarket part.

While the actuator is off the airbox, you can check to see if the blend door is broken. Some people say use a mirror and bright light to look down the hole on top where the actuator was. An alternative is to place a hex key in the hole and try turning the blend door. You will be able to feel if the top of the door is broken or unable to turn.

 

[DaExplorer]

Good info from RomeovilleIL and I agree with him. Check to see if it is the actuator first. My early 97 is a little different that the actuiator does not pop off but is held on with three screws. seems that they changed in 98, wish they had done that earler as the back one is a real pain to get to. As soon as I pulled mine up a small piece of the broken blend door popped out and it was no dought what needed to be replaced. I found a good thread which I will attach and followed it for replacement. I was a little scared to cut at first but all turned out well.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214332

Let us know how it turns out.

 

[oblivionboyj]

Been a while since I posted here...
I just let the problem be for the winter as it didn't bother me to have the heat on all the time.
When I did get in there the motor did in fact function, but had no effect on the heat.
That means that I have a broken blend door, right?

EDIT:
I looked back at the link offered in the previous thread.
I will be doing this repair over the weekend.
I am sure this will fix the problem as I have already excluded the motor.
Thanks for the help guys!

 

[rollinstone]

Yep! If the actuator is working then you've got a busted door. I used the cut-out method (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183742).

Purchased a blend door replacement kit from Rockauto.com...I think it was about $20 including shipping.

I used a Dremel cutting disk to cut out the bottom of the plenum chamber rather than a knife...just seemed to go easier in the cramped space. After I snapped in (there should be an audible "snap") the new door, I simply taped the cutout back in place rather than glued or epoxied it. Over time the tape may give way and cause the door to slip out of position, but it's easy to just get back under there and put on fresh tape...or if the door breaks again, you have easy access for another repair.

You will feel SO good saving the shop cost of about $1200!

 

[Dick Berg]

Blend Door Issue

I have a 1997 4WD EB with the infamous 4L SOHC engine.
My heater is stuck on full heat, and since I can hear the actuator moving, I believe that it's the blend door that's the problem.
I have read a number of threads about cutting the bottom of the plenum to allow removal of the door.
I would prefer replacing the door, but I haven't been able to find a replacement since I have the automatic temperature control system. All of the replacement doors, for example from Dorman, all state that they're for manual temperature control.
Does anyone out there know where I can find a suitable replacement?
I called the local Ford dealer, and they only sell the entire housing assembly for about $250.
If I can't get a replacement, I'll have to see if I can repair the broken door.
Thanks for your help.

Dick

 

[RomeovilleIL]

The $10 doorman blend door kit fits. I have used the exact part on EATC vehicles.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR6/902202.oap?keyword=blend+door&pt=04109&ppt=C0328

Item is listed in stock at a number of San Jose store locations.

 

[Dick Berg]

Blend Door

RomeovilleIL - Thanks very much for the information.
I just ordered it from my local Kragen's Auto Supply.
I really appreciate your suggestion, as everything that I have seen states that this part number is only for manual temperature control.
I'll be making the access hole and replace the door tomorrow, as it's getting too hot around here to constantly have full heat.
Although I have Dremel and Rotabit tools from Sears, I'm tempted to use a small saw blade on my X-Acto knife. I may have to experiment a bit, but I need to be very careful not to damage the evaporator. I think using my heat gun to soften the "hinge" so it can be bent down easily may be a possibility.

Regards,
Dick

 

[oblivionboyj]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214332

Let us know how it turns out.

Well, here is my "let us know how it turns out post"...
The job was really pretty easy.
I found the Dorman kit on eBay for $0.99 and $8 shipping.

I did the repair in like an hour, kneeling on a piece of cardboard in my gravel driveway. LOL
I used a Rotozip to make the cut.
I actually cut too much away on the lower support for the door, but it ended up not being a problem (in the short term at least).
I did not affect a repair to the plastic I cut, I simply secured it with duct tape.
I used several layers, and it feels rock solid.
I have no plan to leave it with the tape; I will effect the plastic repair at some future date as time permits.

I now have total control over the interior climate in my truck
Just in time too, it is in the upper 80's this week! LOL
Thank you all for the help!

 

[SoNic67]

My temporarry fix for the broken blend door: turn off the heat valve manually (by removing the vacuum actuator). I have A/C working.