Clunking in front end, ball joints? | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Clunking in front end, ball joints?

the pics actually make it look worse than what it is, my truck really isn't that bad for rust. they'll come off.

Wouldn't NAPA have springs and the seats for my truck? I wonder how much they would cost....

I'd say it is the passenger side that is clunking, cuz the driver side bushing didn't appear to be that bad. Unless you guys think otherwise....

But I'd replace both sides once I figure out for sure that the passenger side is shot...
 



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yea napa will have the springs but you need to go to the dealer to get the spring seats.....here in OK the springs go for 90 a pair and the seats are 10 each.
 






Hey my 98 has been doing this for some time , would the checks be the same?
 






No you 98 doesnt have Radius arms, its probably your front sway bar link.

Ryan
 






Does the front have to be jacked up and tires free from the ground? Or can I have her on ramps in the front and then do it.

Where that vehicle is so heavy I'm not too confident being underneath with the front on jackstands...
 






The wheels have got to be free, I put mine on concrete blocks, pretty solid.
 






I thought my shocks were bad and went to midas to get new ones (lifetime warrenty)The guy checked it out.He said it is my swaybar and bushings.Any idea on the price of this? I would assume this will take care of the rummbling going over bumps? It sounds like when shocks are gone on cars in the truck..Those typ of sounds.,And going over speed bumps it like the shocks are rusty..I have also noticed a few times on a bumpy road the trucks feels as tho it wants to go the other way.These noises started after sears put on cam casters but they say nothing is wrong..Good luck to you on the project!
 






well if you have it all level and some tall 2ton stands you will be fine.....the key is to jack up both sides so its all level.

to all the 95+ crowd.....if your hearing a clunkin sound its prolly the sway bar links.....check for TSB's on your vehicle as some of the years had a recall on the swaybar links cause they broke alot.
 






I had a person in the truck tonight and they heard it.He said it sounds like rubber so it would probably be the bushings..Do i need to put a new swaybar in or just the bushings?
 






Just bushings
 






check to see if you have a recall on your swaybar links before you go and buy bushings. im not sure but i think the bushings come in the link and not seperately.
 






Check brake pads too. I had similar problem on right side - replaced ball joints, but still had problem. After my last brake job, it stopped. The pad had cracked in several places on the inside area of the pad. Maybe the sound were the pieces shifting.

If your vehicle squeaks in the front end, a friend of mine told me to use a can of spray silicone on the suspension parts - worked great. have to re spray after every winter.
 






would you believe that this job is still not done. i've been working mostly on my newly acquired 240sx, and coupled with the extreme cold here recently and trying to arrange to use a garage it got put on the back burner.

that being said my Explorer is for sale. I still however, may try to get this done before the next person buys her.

Exploder-1 what are you saying in this post....

"They are probably hard like a hockey puck, there is enough pressure at that spot to make them knock around alittle when they are like that, here's a trick that may help, I would replace the pivot arm bushings while you are under there, then you can save the grinding, just unbolt the front of radius arm, and wiggle it out, the pivot bushings are cheaper than the grinder. "

Is that yet another way I can install these radius arm bushing? Without grinding the crossmember rivets? basically jack up the front, plop the tires off, let go the radius arm bolts/connection and then pull it out once the radius arm bolt is out?

did i read that right?
 






you have to do it one of the two ways i described.

--sorry to hear you have to sell her. good luck w/ the work.
 






The same size bolt that holds the radius arm rear bushings on also hold the radius arm to the axle, it would be easier to remove them, and pull the arm out to replace, the pivot bushings are right there, you can also take apart at the pivot point and swing the arms out still attached to the axle, replacing the pivot bushings is not needed, just a good time while the front end is apart. You will need to remove the coils though.
 






radius arms

lbrowne, go to askjeeves.com and type in radius arms or autohubs either one should lead you to a long list of explorer info. there seems to be alot of info on the radius arms. hope this helps. Bryan H
 






I'm going to do this job, and do one side at a time. I just got a power drill from my uncle and coupled with my grinder those rivets won't stand a chance.

It looks like the crossmember overlaps itself, with the passenger piece looking to be the first that has to come off.

I have to go purchase a socket shorter than the deep socket I originally purchased, as i'm unable to clear the exhaust cat bolts to get at the passenger side radius arm bolt.

EDIT: Should I put any lubricating substance/axle grease on the new bushings before installing them??
 






I'm sure you will be pleasantly sur[prised at how much your Ex drives after you replace these bushings. Do not lubricate them, and I'm going to suggest you get the polyurethane ones. Also on the passenger side there is a heat shield near the CAT, make sure you replace it. On mine I could not detect any wear visually, but when I pulled it apart I ended up replacing the bracket too, the hole had been worn due to the failure and the rob sliding through (that klunk was it bottoming out on each pull back and forth). Here's a gerat site with lots of info on this project Dead Link Removed

Good luck..
Chris

ps. I tried all 3 methods of rivet removal, and found a using a center punch and several sharp drill bits to remove the rivet head (then pounding the rivet shaft back through the hole) was the fastest and easiest.
 






hey thanks for the advice, i'm trying to arrange to use my girlfriend's garage this week to get it complete.

i'm afraid once i get this all done i won't want to sell her ;)

the drill i have a loan of from my uncle is a nice one, but i am unsure what bit to use out of what he gave me. I'm thinking maybe a smaller one to penetrate easier after i had grinded the head a bit....

PS: That webpage isn't showing up...just loads forever.
 



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strategy

K fellas heres my mode of attack, which i will start tonight if I get the thumbs up from you guys that this is ok to do.

1. Place front of truck on ramps

2. Grind/Drill rivet heads into submission, but maybe leave the rivet body in place for now. DEFINITELY leave the crossmember bolts in place.

3. Take truck off ramps, jack up x, and place jack stands where you normally would, basically on the frame near the front floor boards so that the tires are off the ground. and i have access to the crossmember

4. Use a drill and center punch and drive the remains of the rivets to kingdom come. let go the bolts, the bolts for the radius arm bushings, replace, then pieve back together.

I can't fully support the front of the truck with stands as mentioned early, by placing them in the front swaybar area (i think fordcrazy suggested this) because my stands are not tall enough, or they would be at their fullest extent to just barely lift her. I don't feel like going and getting bigger stands for this one job.

Let me know if theres any faults or problems i'll run into by using this method i posted.

thanks,

leo
 






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