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Clutch change a bear!

Joined
September 14, 2007
Messages
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City, State
ktOWN , Tn
Year, Model & Trim Level
93' Ranger XLT 4X4
Got the clutch kit and started, everything goes fine until it's time for some of the exhaust pipes below tranny to be removed. They have been soaked with lube but they are crusted and half stripped. The only way they could come out is with a zaw zaw. I see a little clearance for removing the tranny without taking those exhaust pipes off. Stumped, any help is appreciated!!
 



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On my '97 i have pulled the tranny twice without disconnecting any of the exaust, i pulled the t-case off first
 






I removed the Y-pipe, and soaked tem with PB blaster for several days beforehand. Then I hit them with the impact, all came off with no problem.
 






The y pipe, thats the evil sob i can't get off! Maybe if i had an impact with that stripped nut special socket. Thanks for the replies, I think I'll just try and work that tranny out after i remove the transfer case without trying to screw up my exhaust. I could not even find a replacement y pipe if i decided to cut mine out, bummer. peace thanks again
 






I'm pretty sure that I ended up getting the last stuck stud out with a dremel tool from the fenderwell. I already had the plastic fender liner out after the top tranny to engine bolt rounded off. (There's a difficult problem).
 












On my '97 i have pulled the tranny twice without disconnecting any of the exaust, i pulled the t-case off first

This helps alot. You shouldn't have to remove the y-pipe to pull the tranny.
 






sweet , thanks Nate and fellas, heat untill red, dang!!!! Hey any body know why that big bolt at the bottom of the shifter stick won't come out of the shifter? I had to undo the 3 star screws atop the tranny to get the stick out, the nut unscrewed from the big bolt fine from the shifter but what the heck is that nut for if the big bolt is stuck in the shifter? I wanted to buy the 30 dollar shifter extension cause the 3 inch body lift , but it looks like i may have to buy a replacement shifter? any thoughts? thanks , peace, yall have a good weekend
 






Remove the nut from where it was and thread it onto the otherside of the bolt, keep turning it and it will pull the bolt from the shifter.
 






Remove the nut from where it was and thread it onto the otherside of the bolt, keep turning it and it will pull the bolt from the shifter.

+1
that bolt is 'wedged' in there when you tighten it, put the bolt on the other side and it will 'pull' it out
 






oh crap, i tried that bolt on the other side trick but did not try to hard, so my bright idea was to get vice grips on the other side and i stripped=squished the tar-looks like i'm gonna be junkyard shoppin, I'd like to just take it somebody and they cut it and weld an extension in it. Now i know that, it's time to try and replace the clutch. I wonder if those star nuts on the driveshafts will come off with a regular socket? peace yall n thanks again
 






oh crap, i tried that bolt on the other side trick but did not try to hard, so my bright idea was to get vice grips on the other side and i stripped=squished the tar-looks like i'm gonna be junkyard shoppin, I'd like to just take it somebody and they cut it and weld an extension in it. Now i know that, it's time to try and replace the clutch. I wonder if those star nuts on the driveshafts will come off with a regular socket? peace yall n thanks again

Word of wisdom for ya...

Ford likes their loc-tite like sailors like their rum... (why is that, Cap'n Ron? :D ) If you heat the bolts up to about 200 degrees (just warm, not red) they'll pop out much easier and you won't break that 27 torx socket that you probably picked up at Pep Boys or something.

What you did to the shifter is really typical. About 99% of the ones I see are like that before I get to them... I just do what you did -- pop the three screws.

Once you get into the clutch, check the flywheel for wear. It should not have an indented area for the clutch like the one I pulled today... That one was dug in almost 1/4". Talk about a flywheel waiting to explode all over the driver's feet... You can do an el-cheapo resurface job on it with sandpaper (scuff it up) but it is best if you send it out to be ground at your local machine shop (most decent auto shops offer this service).

When you are ready to re-install, make sure you use a can of brake clean spray to rinse off ALL grease and finger prints. Every print will burn into the flywheel and shorten the life.
 






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