clutch finally went, anybody have part# for the slave?

[Chrome_Rush]

Where can I get metal plugs to replace them. As far as the fluid im pretty sure it's never been changed, and at 246k miles it still shifts like new and the syncros show no signs of wear while driving, even in the dead of winter. But I would like to do anything that will prolong it's inevitable failure. I was considering putting in half a bottle of the Lucas for the tranny. With the normal fluid.

 

[Tshark299]

Where can I get metal plugs to replace them. As far as the fluid im pretty sure it's never been changed, and at 246k miles it still shifts like new and the syncros show no signs of wear while driving, even in the dead of winter. But I would like to do anything that will prolong it's inevitable failure. I was considering putting in half a bottle of the Lucas for the tranny. With the normal fluid.

I'd also be interested in knowing if there are metal plugs that are a direct replacement. Mine have leaked pretty badly a few times; I've coated them with RTV and reinstalled with good results overall but a more durable solution would be nice.

As for the slave cylinder, I paid $130 at my local dealer for one about 3-4 years ago. That was about double what the local Advance Auto wanted for theirs. Comparing them side-by-side, they looked identical, but still used the one from Ford for whatever piece of mind that's worth.

 

[jd4242]

I'd also be interested in knowing if there are metal plugs that are a direct replacement. Mine have leaked pretty badly a few times; I've coated them with RTV and reinstalled with good results overall but a more durable solution would be nice.

As for the slave cylinder, I paid $130 at my local dealer for one about 3-4 years ago. That was about double what the local Advance Auto wanted for theirs. Comparing them side-by-side, they looked identical, but still used the one from Ford for whatever piece of mind that's worth.

Local parts store should have them..it was one of the updated parts ford recommended when they came out with their ""recommendations"",but didnt make it a recall. .fyi the synchronizers were also one of their problems

 

[Chrome_Rush]

I bought a slave from napa, looks like a quality piece, it's aluminum like the oem unit not rge cheap Chinese plastic one. Usually napa stuff seems to be built to a higher standard from my experiance. I started tearing into it, pulled the shifter and the bushings are non existent, so I picked up a m5od shifter bushing kit from napa while I was there.

Anyways, I've never had to work in a system with a hydraulic clutch system, the slave has a quick connect type connecrion, I bought the special tool napa sells to disconnect it but how exactly does it work to remove the line? Also how do you remove the line on the side of the transmission? I don't see a way to remove it. I have all the elective connectors off and the shifter. Any pointers on any of this or how to get at the top bellhop sing bolts?

 

[Explorin'VA]

A retaining clip should be all that holds the hydraulic line to the side of the trans, once that's removed you should be able to pull the line off. For the top bell housing bolts you'll need some long extensions and patience.

 

[Chrome_Rush]

I didn't see any kind of retaining clip on it, I thought it might be a twist lock type thing put I didn't want to just go after it and end up breaking it off lol. I will have to take a look next time I have some free time to work on it.

 

[Number4]

Go back to the link I posted (#19) then look at the pic in post #5 , you'll see the tool. NAPA part number 3413, but any parts store will have it.

At the edge of the brass fitting, before it turns into the black line, you'll insert the tool. There is a white vinyl/plastic piece that needs to be pushed into the fitting which spreads the prongs out. Thus allowing the hose to come out.

Now, there's no room and it didn't work for me. I had to cut the clutch line and then the slave arm itself.