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Clutch replacement tips

turkmauser

Member
Joined
September 17, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Lexington, Kentucky
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 sport
Howdy, I'm about to embark on replacing the clutch on my 1993 explorer sport and I was wondering if anybody had any tips to help me along. I already ordered my clutch set from summit and have all the other replacement parts I think I need. Any suggestions would help. Thanks.
 



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There's a couple threads here about it. Try searching for "replace clutch". I used them when I had to replace mine. ;)

Welcome to the forum. :thumbsup:
 






:exp:Thanks man! I found a couple useful posts and am now hoping mine will go smoother than others considering I really have only this weekend to do it.:( However I've heard it's easier to drop the transmission and transfer case as one, but its too heavy to lift up as one/awkward. I hadn't planned on doing the replacement on my own, but when your 16 money is tight and you have to use what ya got. My father is of course going to help me anf he's done a few clutches in his past but never on a 4x4. We have a pretty good arsenal of tools and equipment so I think it will be fine:thumbsup:
 






Good luck! Post up any questions if you get stuck.
 






if you don't have a body lift, I would suggest cutting the y-pipe just below each edge of the transmission. Then clamp it back together and have an exhaust shop weld it back up. If you don't, you may not be able to get the transmission back in.
 






You can remove the y pipe if nessary instead of cutting it and spending the money to have it fixed.

You should be able to get it in and out with the y pipe in
 






:exp: Thanks for all the tips ya'll! We were going to use our acetylene torch to heat up the bolts on the exaust clamps to hopefully break them loose. If that doesn't work we might just tiger saw it.:thumbdwn: Is it really necessary to drain the trans before droping it? Is it necessary to drain it at all?
 






The first few times we took the exhaust off we had to heat them up untill they were red and then remove. Just watch out i have let them drop and caught them before. Too Hot still.

You dont have to it will let you stablize the tranny a little more. The fluid moving around sometimes makes it a little harder.
 






:exp:Well we are going to use an ATV jack to lower/raise the trans so sloshing hopefully won't be too much of a problem:) (fingers crossed)
 






Is there any other parts ya'll recomend replacing while down there, other than slave cylinder and pilot bearing?
 






have the flywheel resurfaced.
 






Is that necessary? I thought that was only necessary when the clutch has worn down to the rivets.
 






The clutch still scores the flywheel. It will wear the new clutch disc better if you do have it resurfaced.
 






Necessary, no. Recommended, yes.
 












To get the top two bolts out you must stand on a ladder so you can reach behind the engine. If you can't get your arm down behind the engine from the top. Remove the spark plug wires on the back this will give you some more room. Then when your arms down there relax and lay on the engine cause your going to be in this position for awhile. While you place the socket on the bolts without looking. If your lucky your ratchet will move more than two clicks when removing etc. Don't forget to breath so you don't cramp up from this awful position. When getting the bolts back in don't forget the O2 sensor hanger goes on the pass side with the flywheel bolt.

I did this job in the garage with it on jack stands as high as I could get them. Had to cut the exhaust pipe under the tranny and have it welded back on. Removed the trans/transfer case all in one put back in the same way. Use ratchet straps position them high and forward on the frame this will aid in getting the rear transfer case area up and also get some forward pressure when going back in. Also had a tranny jack and an extra pair of hands. I would hire this out next time it's just too much work for me(11hrs).
 






2 doors are not fun. 4 doors however, there is enough room to remove the transfercase from the tranny. On the 2 doors however the fuel tank is in the way and i have never been able to slide the t-case back enough to remove it.

I would replace the pilot bearing and the slave cylinder while the trans is out, cheap insurance.

Good luck
 






How did you make out?

Never did a clutch on an 'X' but the cars I have done ( fords, volvos, Mopars, GM's), when you take the Trani crossmember down, teh engine tilts back enough to ge a long extention up to the Top Bellhousing bolts.
 






^^That's^^ how I did it. About 3 feet of extensions.
 



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