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code P0420

I was told it is not only against policy, but also illegal for a parts guy to reset an emissions code without correcting the problem.

This is true, but if you are a regular customer some parts places will still do it. However, this is one of the reasons I bought a scanner.
 



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I disconnected the neg. cable last night and today the light stayed off all day. We'll see what tomorrow brings.
 






My CEL just came on after having the head gaskets replaced. Considering coolant was leaked into the cat and the truck has 226k miles on it, would it be safe to say that the cat is bad and needs replaced? I took the truck to Adavanced and the code was P0420.
Thanks in advance for your help.
 






My CEL just came on after having the head gaskets replaced. Considering coolant was leaked into the cat and the truck has 226k miles on it, would it be safe to say that the cat is bad and needs replaced? I took the truck to Adavanced and the code was P0420.
Thanks in advance for your help.

Mine comes on about once a year with the same code. I just turn it off and drive on. Been doing this for years.
 






Mine comes on about once a year with the same code. I just turn it off and drive on. Been doing this for years.

That isn't fixing the issue though. IMO this is not good advice.



My CEL just came on after having the head gaskets replaced. Considering coolant was leaked into the cat and the truck has 226k miles on it, would it be safe to say that the cat is bad and needs replaced? I took the truck to Adavanced and the code was P0420.
Thanks in advance for your help.

Try cleaning the 02 sensors first. . They could be contaminated with coolant residue
 






There is also some emission treatments, like Wynns, that could be tried. I've used the Wynns stuff with limited success before.
 






That isn't fixing the issue though. IMO this is not good advice.

Normally, I would agree with you Turdle. First time I got that code many years ago I actually replaced a catalytic converter. CEL stayed off for about a year, then same code recurred. O2 sensors have all failed over the years and been replaced. Driveability is fine; vehicle always passes inspection, including once in a state where they actually measured tailpipe emissions. I am/was unwilling to spend the money to replace the other three converters for an occasional CEL. This is a code that I would turn off a couple of times, and chase fixing only if it kept recurring over a short interval when I could clearly pinpoint the cause.
 






I had this code on and off for years on my 96 4.0 XLT, but I'd just erase it and it'd be gone for another year. Then it stopped going away...I'd erase it and it'd be back the next day, so I replaced the upstream o2 sensors (150k on them) and the code hasn't been back (2 months or so).

I barely passed my last smog check due to high nox (IIRC, the max was 748 ppm and mine was 747 ppm), so I'm wondering if replacing a tired o2 sensor with a fresh one would have any bearing on the nox situation.
 






One P0420 solution

I've had the dreaded P0420 - "Bank 1 catalyst efficiency below threshold" problem for many years. The engine runs fine, but during a long trip, the check engine light will come on. A scan tool will turn off the service light, but the code is stored in memory, and will fault if you have to pass an emissions inspection. I've done all of the usual checks, and even went so far as to replace the O2 sensors. You can disconnect the battery to clear the memory, but the error code eventually returns. Disconnecting the battery will also put the emissions system into a "NOT READY" state, so it's obvious that you've recently cleared the computer's memory.

During one inspection cycle, I took the drastic and expensive step of replacing the cats with some after market parts. This does 'fix' the problem of your cats being out of specification, but it doesn't address the real underlying problem. In about a year, the new cats started to fail.

What's happening is that on a long trip, the engine will be hot enough for the computer to measure the catalytic efficiency by using two O2 sensors in the exhaust. If your cat is just starting to fail, many people will simply replace the O2 sensors, hoping to get lucky. This might buy you a month or so, but eventually the problem returns. Most likely, the computer is right, and your cats are starting to lose efficentcy.

A likely scenario is that something is leaking/dripping into the cylinders, and it flows down into a cat and fouls it. It could be fuel, oil, or coolant. If it's fuel, you might have a bad injector that leaks with the engine off. If it's oil, a leaking seal is a likely culprit. In my case, the telltale sign was a slow loss of coolant with no noticeable drips on the garage floor.

Over time, coolant was disappearing at an increasing rate, and I did all of the usual things to fix leaks; new radiator, water pump, and all hoses replaced. But the truck kept needing an occasional top off of coolant. In an effort to stop the mysterious leak I added some powdered leak stopper. This seemed to help slow down the coolant leaks. It also had one additional side effect: the dreaded P0420 codes stopped occurring.

What seems to be happening is that coolant leaks into a cylinder when the engine is running hot. The coolant (ethylene glycol) doesn't burn, so it flows down to the cat and fouls it. If you can stop the coolant leak, the antifreeze will eventually work through the exhaust, and the cat will start working properly again.

The permanent solution is to remove the intake manifold and replace the gasket. It's an inexpensive part (< $20), but the installation process will require a bit of effort. You know, like removing the pressurized fuel rail without accidentally lighting yourself on fire.

If you've been plagued by P0420 codes, the moral of this story is to make sure you've checked for internal leaking before you replace expensive parts like the cats or O2 sensors.
 






For those still reading the post, reprogramming the PCM worked for me. A $89 fix by the dealer has kept the Check Engine light off for about 1 week and ~700 miles. Every test I did pointed to the Cat Converter. So far this has fixed my problem for long enough for me to get through the state emissions check.
 






I am bringing this old thread back to life. Can anyone tell me if there's a way to test the intake manifold gasket for leaks without tearing everything apart? I have been getting a P0420 code every few weeks, and my coolant level seems to be dropping but not by a crazy amount.
 






I am bringing this old thread back to life. Can anyone tell me if there's a way to test the intake manifold gasket for leaks without tearing everything apart? I have been getting a P0420 code every few weeks, and my coolant level seems to be dropping but not by a crazy amount.
You can buy, or sometimes rent, a cooling system pressure tester.
 






You can buy, or sometimes rent, a cooling system pressure tester.

That sounds cool, I'll look into it, thanks!

Honestly just debating replacing the whole damn intake and gasket just because. But it seems like a hell of a job.

I know that my front most left COP mounting location (brass nut or whatever it's called) has come unseated from the cheap plastic intake. Not a disaster by any means, but it's annoying to know something's broken.

Just wish they made an aluminum intake for less than $500. That'd be sexy.
 






Hello everybody, New member here. I did the TPS mod that I found on this forum for my 06 Explorer. It smoothed out the idle and performance. My question is would this affect the CATS and cause a P0420 ?
 






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