Coilover done 2001 sport | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Coilover done 2001 sport

928SPORT

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April 29, 2006
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City, State
PAGE AZ
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 SPORT
Well it has been along time since I posted anything here but I thought would relay some things that may not have been on here about the coilover conversion. Some of you may remember my black 2001 sport with the 35's from pictures I have posted in the past,It has served me well and has been bullet proof to date with the stock setup,"TB's"For some reason I bought into this coilover setup and now don't know why.I bought my brackets from a guy on a Ranger forum about a year ago and just got around to putting them on, and boy the PROBLEMS! First, the lower shock bracket mounting tabs for the shocks were 1/2" to wide and one of the tabs would hit the cv dust boot real bad, so I had the tab moved 1/2" for clearance,but now the last two coils on the spring make slight contact with the cv boot under full lock with the steering.the upper mount is also 1/2" to wide and spacers are needed the fell in the gap between the shock and bracket,no big deal but it should not be this way.The spring I am using is a 700 pound, 12", 2 1/2"ID with a OD of 3 7/8", why I bring this up is the spring will also touch the upper control arms in full droop unless I pull most of the camber out of the front end.This brings up another problem, with the stock setup I had spaced the top on the shock down 1/2" for a full 1" more of droop travel at the wheel, using a Hal 4955 shock and mounting it in the brackets as they came I lose 1 1/2" of that travel,so I cut and drop the upper bracket 1/2" to get back 1" at the wheel,I am still 1/2" short.This may not sound like much but when you start out with such a small amount like the explorer it matters.I had also cut the factory bump stop 1/2" for 1" more compression travel at the wheel.Also I just noticed that both brake lines at the caliper where bent from contacting the spring under full lock, Are these problems that other people have had? if so I have not seen them here posted, are the springs I am using larger O.D then some other brands out there? mine are 3 7/8".I have drove it twice for a short distance and think I could go with a lighter rated spring maybe 600 or650 pound, it fills a little stiffer then stock.At this very moment I an not sure what there is to gain by doing this and thought so from the first time I seen the post here,can someone explain the pro's and cons to this because right now I would not suggest to do this to anyone other then the bling factor you get. If I can't sort through these problems I will put my stock setup back on.I know it has been done here a bunch of times and have seen picture and all looks well without the problems I have had.I welcome any input from you guys at this moment.
 



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Run limit straps to eliminate the spring touching the ucas. And maybe your brackets aren't as well done as the ones from RCD because their design is supposed to avoid hitting your cvs. Bumpstops you have to cut. Different springs might help a bit.
 






Posting pictures would help so we can see how everything is set up.

How much travel are you actually getting from when the front end is bottomed out (bumpstops compressed) to when the upper arm hits the spring? You won't be able to get more than 8 or 9 inches anyway. If that's the case, then just use limit straps.

Is there room to move the coilover in towards the frame at all? Or can you move the lower mount in on the lower arm? And I would not have cut the bump stops. I have touched that little hook thing for the bottle jack to the crossmember above where the lower A-arms mount to. You don't want to bump that high! It puts too much stress on the tie rods and steering rack, and possibly balljoints too.

But post pictures first.
 






I'm finishing up my install today and then off to get an alignment. The limit straps are key! Have these done right.

As for you brake line issue. I have the perfect solution: 2003 Jeep Wrangler stock lines.
They are 3" longer and bolt directly on. My brake lines clear the springs perfectly.

My build thread will be posted within the next week with tons of pictures. Stay tuned. I will be sure to start another thread and not highjack this one ;-)

And as for the spring being to close to the CVs; try squeezing a couple washers on the through bolt to spacer the coilover away from the CV. I did this just as a precauion. My spring did not contact the CVs initially. I have the Fox 2.0 Emulsion coilovers. Fox also makes an extended lower Eylet to avoid axle rub. It's about an inch taller, and easily replaces the default eylet.
 






I just started my install today. Im super excited. And nervous. I don't have cv'ss but maybe putting in a washer isn't such a bad idea. Also posting pics of install.
 






coilover

Thanks for all the ideas, the spring will rub the cv boot with the weight of the explorer on the ground and at full lock on the steering. It has nothing to do with being in full drop.I have spaced it over all the bracket will allow. The only way to move the shock anymore will be to move the tab on the bracket.Just maybe the springs I bought are a little larger in OD then most, maybe.For now I have put it back stock since I am leaving for a off road trip soon and just run out of time.Thanks for all your help.
 






Coilover, back to Tbars for good.

After going on this last offroad trip I have decided to leave it with the Tbars.It works very well as it always had and I will just sell all the front coilover stuff,it is new other then being bolted on and off a few times,I also have new limiting straps to go with it,The shocks are Hal- 4955. the springs are 700 pound,brackets.If someone would like this stuff Please e-mail me at 928dennis@gmail.com I am sure I can save you some dollars. Thanks
 






pictures would certainly help you sell this, especially with your dislike of the particular setup ;)
 






http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-DR4955P/
These are great shocks, but the poly bearings are no good for wheeling with. Use the steel bearings instead.

A 2.5" coil is what needs to be used on these for clearance of everything. 600lb coils will be too soft after a few thousand miles IMO.
 






Coilover, back to Tbars for good.

I will try and get some pictures up in a day or two. Thanks for the idea.
 






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