Collecting info on t-case problems. | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Collecting info on t-case problems.

The electric 1354 swap is alot of work. The manual 1354 swap is easier even though have to install the shifter. And yes your speedo will still work with either one.
 



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Manual t-case is where its at. :) I love mine
 






if you are going to replace it go with the atlas2 case that thing is bulletproof
 






Hi guys, thank you for your replies. About the Atlas II, I’ve seen some photos of it and God, that’s really serious gear but the cost is out of my possibilities. I’ve read in the forum many people installed manual 1354 t-cases coming from early Rangers and they love them. The problem is down here in Argentina Rangers are being produced since 1998 and they are all electric 1354. Perhaps I could manage to bring in a manual from the USA if freight is reasonable... Mike Boyle, if you happen to read this, any comment about repairing the 4405 would be highly appreciated.

Luis
 






I have never seen a successful repair that fixes the problem. It usually is cheaper to replace the case than it is to fix it.
 












Is there a thread on the install or swap for the 1354 manual or the Altas II?
 






there are plenty of threads on installing a 1354 all you need to do is search. :)
 






HA, we're playing tag across two threads!

I'll seach some more.
 






LOL, there where couple threads not to long ago where people where interested in swapping out thier old t-cases and i gave some decent destructions. :)
 






I had the lights flashing 6 times last year, cleaned the shift motor and it was fixed. They started flashing again during our last snow storm and when I would put it in 4WD auto it was going into 4WD HI. so I was thinking that the shift motor was still ok. Changed the fluid since it had been awhile. Then I took out the hall effect sensors and just wiped them off (they looked good, no metal stuck to them). Yesterday I disconnected the battery for awhile and now it is working right. ?????!
 






I'd still say it is the motor

I've done a few and one problem is the motor bearings drying out. A simple lube just doesn't fix the problem. Last one I cleaned up drew over 4.5A on the bench power supply with the gear removed. After cleaning the bearings with trany fluid and 20 minutes run in, it was less than 0.75 amp. The electronics will go into shutdown at high currents. I found this easy test works. Put a brake light in series with the motor wires and attach it to 12V. If the motor runs, you are ok.
 






Thanks Opera, I'll try to check the amp draw soon. Bad news is while I was under there I noticed a slight leak from the rear output shaft seal. :-(
 






Replacing the rear seal on a 4405 is easy

Expect it is on yours too. Push up on the flange when the driveshaft is removed. I recently had a lot of up down play. The split bearing mount in the housing was worn. I shimmed it with pieces of aluminum beer can and then pressed the bearing back in. That should last till I find another case! Just for general info, you can get some parts at www.kdsperformance.com The seal you can get at NAPA or any other good parts store.
 






Is that from the outside or do you need to take the case off and apart to change the seal? So in the end I should look for a new Tcase then?
 






My tag seems to be missing! Is there another way to make sure I get the right case?
 






Should also be a plastic label on the case. Wasn't visable till I cleaned the case. Just go to NAPA and let them worry about it. Likely the same seal for many years. Flange either unbolts or a clip has to be removed. After flange pulled out the seal can be pryed out. Polish surface on flang that the seal rides on with light sandpaper and oil.
 






Opera House, sounds like you're saying I can replace the seal with the unit still on the truck right?

I found the metal tag. Had to take off the skid plate.
 






took the driveshaft off this morning, bad news, up and down play. Any one have a transfercase for sale?
 



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