Confused on front driveshafts cv or not | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Confused on front driveshafts cv or not

kawasaki2374

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Joined
January 13, 2009
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City, State
akeley,mn
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 explorer xlt 5.0 AWD
I have a 96 explorer 5.0 awd purchased it used with 114,000 having vibration issues back u-jonts are new. Tires balanced The cv axles are good front driveshaft is a double carden design at the transfer case u-joint good. Everyone I see online is a u-joint at the diff and a cv at the transfer case. I found a tsb says under warranty they should have replaced it with a new shaft and transfer case but they never say what the original shaft was a cv or a double carden. Does anybody have any ideas thanks
 



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FYI a double cardan is a CV as well as the bearing head CV on the 97+ models (Just to confuse you more). Either way you originally have a double cardan to a single u joint drive shaft. It's possible the centering kit in the CV end wore out. If you go to purchase a new one double check and make sure you have a circular flange on the transfer case end or an open socket. If you'd like to call me I'll get you pointed in the right direction.
 






double carden has 2 ujoints in a carrier a cv has a rubber boot on it. mine is a 96 so I guess its a ujoint model 97 and later had the cv shaft finally called ford and they gave me the info thanks to all for your help
 






Good, glad you got it straitened out, just for FR...double cardan and a "CV" are both CV's because they are both under constant velocity at all times.
 






the switch from double-cardan to GKN style CV's was made (most likely) mid-97 model year, most likely around the same time as the switch from GT40 to GT40P heads, along with conical to air-box air intake systems, and the VSS moving from the t-case to the rear axle.
 






I have a 4L EX with auto4wd. Developed a vibration last night on the way to work. Thought maybe it was a cv boot let go on the front axle. They where all O/K I felt the cv
on the front drive shaft and it was hot. If the cv is gone does that mean I have to replace the driveshaft or can it be rebuilt? If it needs to be replaced is there a stronger shaft available?The cv seems like kind of a weak design.
 






You've got a 2001 so I'd imagine you've got over 100k miles on your truck. It's not recommended you rebuild the CV..it's probably a better idea you just get a new one. I've got 106,000 miles on my original with no problems. I sell them if you need one or if you'd like I'll send you in the right direction in Canada.
 






FYI, the term "CV" is used in two different ways on driveshafts. One way is an explanation of what the joint does -- and in that case, there are several different types of joints that can rightly be called CV (constant velocity), including the double cardan, the joint actually named a CV (has balls in sockets) and other rubber-type/rag joint type joints like the late Explorers used.

The other use of CV is for one particular joint -- typically the one that drives the axles on front-wheel drive applications, with big ball bearings inside a collar that allow for flexability in a rotating joint.

A double cardan joint is a doubled u-joint setup, where two u-joints are connected by a ball and socket into a single unit that allows for a constant velocity rotation, in that one joint cancels out the rotational forces of the other while they turn (one joint is at 20 degrees, the other at -20 degrees, and vice versa = a smooth running joint without the hitch in rotational force required to transfer torque from one leg of a cross to the next).

Best way to fix an Explorer front driveshaft is to find another better one in the pull-a-part. Otherwise, find a local driveshaft rebuilder. Almost every city has at least one somewhere. Cost should be in the $125 range, typically. For heavier duty parts, check out Tom Woods, High Angle Driveline, etc., all of whom build some awesome custom driveshafts.

About the weak design of the CV driveshaft... It works. A lot of guys want to really ramp up driveshaft strength, and they end up twisting off something else, like axle shafts. I'd really rather loose a shaft or easy to replace u-joint than something more expensive in the axle.
 






Get this I called the local ford dealer about a new or rebuilt drive shaft they quoted me over $900 Gulp! an aftermarket car part store $600 A local drive shaft builder said he could not get the cv joint but could get me a shaft from the states fo $400. A local scrap yard had a good used one for $100 so guess which one I picked. Its in and works fine.Thanks for the replies. Oh by the way the odometer just turned over 80K Kilometers thats only 50k miles. I got it from my stepfather who did a lot of short trips in snow and salt then parked it in the garage.
 






Get this I called the local ford dealer about a new or rebuilt drive shaft they quoted me over $900 Gulp! an aftermarket car part store $600 A local drive shaft builder said he could not get the cv joint but could get me a shaft from the states fo $400. A local scrap yard had a good used one for $100 so guess which one I picked. Its in and works fine.Thanks for the replies. Oh by the way the odometer just turned over 80K Kilometers thats only 50k miles. I got it from my stepfather who did a lot of short trips in snow and salt then parked it in the garage.

add a little grease to the CV at every oil change (when possible).
there may be a little pin-hole at the center of the "cup" where you can add grease. May help pro-long the life of the junk-yard unit.

I went through about 3 junkyard units in less than 2 years, myself.
 






Get this I called the local ford dealer about a new or rebuilt drive shaft they quoted me over $900 Gulp! an aftermarket car part store $600 A local drive shaft builder said he could not get the cv joint but could get me a shaft from the states fo $400. A local scrap yard had a good used one for $100 so guess which one I picked. Its in and works fine.Thanks for the replies. Oh by the way the odometer just turned over 80K Kilometers thats only 50k miles. I got it from my stepfather who did a lot of short trips in snow and salt then parked it in the garage.

I've got them new / OEM for $270.00.
 






Its funny sometimes you can get parts so cheap that you wonder how they can rebuild them for so little and others are so ridiculously expensive no one would ever buy them.
I pulled the cap off the scrap yard shaft and the grease looked like new I was going to wash it out and repack it. But it looked o/k. The tag on it said it came from an 02 ranger must not have had many miles on it it looked like new compared to mine.
 






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