coolant leak!!! HELP!!! | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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coolant leak!!! HELP!!!

You can do this by yourself. I did it a couple of weeks ago, and I am by no means a mechanic. You may want to procure an alternate mode of transportation for a few days, though. This job does take a little time. I'll give you a step-by-step write up on how to do it, and how to save yourself a little money in the process. First, go to AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts and pick up the lower intake gasket and valve cover gaskets. Do not buy the entire, all inclusive kit. Oddly enough, it is cheaper to purchase the valve cover gaskets and lower intake gasket separately. Both the Felpro valve cover kit and the Felpro lower intake gasket kit comes with the upper intake gasket, so there's no worry there. You'll just have an extra lying around when it's all said and done. You'll also need a 1 1/16" wrench to remove the EGR tube from the upper intake manifold. Invest in a grease pen (white or yellow) to label all connections and vacuum lines, as well. This will be crucial. You won't need to purchase any RTV sealant because the gaskets come with a tube of it. You will also want to invest in a hook set. This will aid in the removal of all the old plug connections without breaking them. After you've attained everything you need to do the job, pop your hood and label every plug and vacuum line connected to the upper intake. Label them in a way so that the male and female portions have the same label, as to avoid any confusion with re-assembly. Remove the air intake tube, disconnect the battery, and remove the throttle body shroud. You'll also want to remove the alternator, upper radiator hose and water neck, as you'll need the room. After that, remove all plugs and vacuum lines from the upper intake manifold, unscrew the EGR nut (this is much easier said than done), and remove all eight bolts connecting the upper intake manifold to the lower. After the upper intake is off, disconnect both fuel lines, unplug the fuel injector sensors (make sure to label these, as well), and remove the coil (with the brace) from the passenger side of the block. There is no need to remove the fuel rail or spark plug wires. Just make sure you label the location of the wires on the coil pack. Next, remove the valve cover gaskets. Remember to stuff rags inside the intake runners so that debris does not fall inside the motor. After the valve covers are off, cover the heads up with some shop rags to prevent dirt from falling inside. Next, remove all eight bolts from the lower intake manifold. Now, re-install the water neck to use as a handle to remove the lower intake. After the lower intake is out, scrape the mating surface of the block and lower intake, as well as the mating surface of the block and valve cover gaskets. Your goal is to remove all old gasket material and old silicone RTV. You will also want to scrape the underside of the lower intake manifold, as well. Next, apply a thick bead of RTV sealant on the front and rear of the block. This is the area where the gasket doesn't properly seal. Install your gasket, then bolt on the lower intake manifold. This is tricky. You have to make sure all lower intake bolts clear the designated holes on the gasket. Once you've gotten everything lined up and bolted down, re-assembly is a breeze.
 



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It's not extremely easy, but really isn't too bad. It involves taking off the valve covers, upper intake, and lower intake. The fuel rail can stay intact. You can get a gasket kit just for the job that includes all necessary gaskets for around $100. If you're comfortable with it go for it. If you don't have a service manual of some sort, now would be a good time to get one. The instructions aren't perfect, but should get you through the job.

Good luck

Edit: Looks like I was beat to the post.
 






wow, ok well i was lookin through the Haynes installation manual and they have 2 different removal and installations, one for a 4.0L (pushrod) V6 and one for a 1997 to 2000 4.0L SOHC V6. mine is a 93 4.0L but why do they only show 97 to 2000 installs? or is mine a (pushrod) 4.0L??? i was under the impression mine was a 4.0L SOHC?!?! (as you an tell i haven't done that much engine work in my day) but what's the difference?
 












ohhhh ok, so is that haynes manual legit? or is a bunch of crap?
 






A quick TEMPORARY, I repeat, TEMPORARY band-aid to stop the bleeding until you can do a proper repair would be a bottle of Bars Leak pellets. Mine had the same leak you're describing, but mine started leaking in January (car repairs in Minnesota in January are no fun). I'm doing a complete gasket replacement later this summer, so it didn't make sense to tear it apart over the winter. I dumped a bottle of Bars Leak into the radiator, let the truck idle for a half hour, no more leak. I do still occasionally smell antifreeze, but I haven't added a drop since putting the Bars Leak in.
 






well what's that ****? is it ok to go through the system?
 






NO bars leak

I used that crap in my 92 geo storm and it was a huge mistake. It plugged all my water jackets in the head and block causing blockage and overheating which leads to a larger job or removing the head and getting it machined. I will never use a bars leak products agin and I will never recommend it.
 






ok then lol
 






I have the exact same coolant leak.

Good to know what it is. I thought it was my freeze plug. My leak looks like it is under my exhaust manifold by the motor mount. passanger side. sounds like I got a new project..:salute:
 






yeh you and me both brotha lol
 






I used that crap in my 92 geo storm and it was a huge mistake. It plugged all my water jackets in the head and block causing blockage and overheating which leads to a larger job or removing the head and getting it machined. I will never use a bars leak products agin and I will never recommend it.

I agree. This stuff is just as effective at plugging the small passenges in your radiator as it is in stopping a leak. It is better in the long run to fix the leak by fixing the gasket.
 






ok so, this is what i need guys! ok i need a quick fix for about a week before i can work on it because it's gonna be all ****ty rain this weekend and this week is nuts for me, and i NEED to drive it, so not driving it isnt an option, is there anything i can do to hold off the leaks for a temp fix, besides that "bars leak" ****? or will that be OK (i mean OKAY) for just a week since im flushing the system anyway?

help!

thanks jess
 






Unless it is just gushing water out, I would just carry a couple of gallon jugs of water and keep filling it back up whenever it starts getting low. It should be pulling coolant out of the overflow container; just don't let it run out completely because it will break the vacuum and then you will need to remove the cap (which is dangerous when it is hot). Keep the overflow filled all the time.
 






should that be a mix of water and coolant?
 






If you are just going to drain it out in a week or two to fix the intake gasket, I wouldn't even bother using coolant - it will be okay with straight water unless it is likely to be below freezing or you are going across the desert.
 






hahaha tru tru
 






How did this come out

I have the same problem with my truck and wondered if you did the job yourself or what came of it. It looks like a ***** with all the vacum and wires etc....
 






excelent thread! The problem you describe is exactly the issue i have now. Looks like I now have a weekend project. Guess I will replace the tstat, pump and hoses while i am at it!
 



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You may want to try this

I had the lower intake manifold leak, mine was in the front near the Alt bracket. I didnt see me tearing all that stuff off to change the gasket and get it all back together. Just a reality check for me. I went to the local NAPA and they suggested a product called Motor Purr Seal Up-metallic. It is made by Jones Moter Purr Co out of Gardena, CA. (310)532-8602. No I do not get any endorsement money.lol I am usually against these products but as I said I was not looking forward to a hefty bill from the shop or spending a few nights under the hood cussing and breaking vacum lines etc... The product worked great and I left it in there for about a week before I drained my radiator and filled it with a 50/50 antifreeze mixture. How long will it last? Will there be negative consequences for taking a "short cut"? I dont know but I do know the truck is fixed and has been fine for almost 2 months. Good luck on your fix and if you decide to pull the manifold let me know how that goes...........
 






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