Coolant temperature

[rangerguy94]

ok i was just wandering why my coolant temperature dosnt go up to normal it will just to to the n and then drop back down to the c it will just fluctuate like that the whole time im driving. I put a new radiator, hoses,and thermostat in and it still does it. Could my coolant temperature sensor be bad. also my ac system is complety drain because i had a hole im my condensor so could that be the problem that i dont have any r134-a in the system thanks in advance

 

[410Fortune]

yes your sender could be bad the stock gage is not the most accurate device.
Was it doing this before the new thermostat?

 

[Red FX4]

Sounds like it is the sensor but make sure you put the thermostat in the right way.

 

[rangerguy94]

well see the reason i had to replace my thermostat was it was sticking and so when i put the new one in it started to do this does my ac system have anything to do with this

 

[BrooklynBay]

The radiator, and condenser are independent of each other. Sometimes heat could get transferred to one another since they are so close together. Both systems are sealed, and not connected to each other. If one is leaking, it won't affect the other one.

 

[rangerguy94]

well i put new refridernat in and the compressor dosnt kick on so im gussin its siezed i put in a new temperature sending unit now the temperature fluctuated between the n and the m it dosnt stay at one of those spots is there anything else that could be worng this is driving me crazy

 

[BrooklynBay]

The vehicle's temperature always fluctuates a little bit. You can't expect it to stay the same, since the thermostat opens, and closes. If you have a thermostatic fan clutch, or an electric fan, it will also cycle your temperature. As for your compressor, test your safety switch with a continuity meter to see if your circuit is closed. If not, you could have one of a few different problems:
1. Bad pressure cut out switch.
2. Not enough freon.
3. Burned out clutch coil.
4. Bad fuse.
One way to troubleshoot the circuit is to turn on your A/C, then use a jumper wire on the pressure cut out switch, which is located on the accumulator tank (place where you refill freon). Did you replace your orifice (expansion) valve before you refilled your system with freon? If this is clogged, you could also have a problem. I once had mine clogged with metal shavings, which caused excess pressure on the system, causing my lower hose to blow out. If you have improper system pressure, your pressure switch won't enable your compressor to stay locked.

 

[rangerguy94]

no i didnt change that tube ill check that as for the freon i used one of thoses cans that u get from autozone with the gauge on it and it will only let me fill my system to 45 psi what should it be filled too

 

[BrooklynBay]

It all depends upon how low you are on freon. When you refill freon on a completely empty system, the recommended way in the manual is to use a big tank of freon that looks like a barbecue propane tank, and put it on a scale. The repair manual will tell you the exact amount needed for each vehicle. As for the orifice valve, you could only replace it on a completely empty system.

 

[rangerguy94]

my system was complety empty so should i just take it to a dealer and have them recharge it thanks

 

[BrooklynBay]

One thing that I forgot to mention is that the system as to be vacuumized by an evacuation pump before refilling it. Some shops don't do this, and just try to add freon directly. The system has condensation build up which has to be evacuated, as well as air. If your system is completely empty, it probably has a leak that must be repaired before doing this work. They have different tools for testing leaks, such as dye additives for UV lights, halogen (propane in this sense) leak detectors, and electronic detectors with corona wind sensors on a flexible tip.