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Coolant temperature

Sorry to not get to y'all sooner but y'all basically got it

My 99 came with threaded sensor s
I upgraded :D
I was gonna get a different top outlet but this one is working good enough for me I'm not to picky....most of the time...
 



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Received a response from Todd of Zabteck Performance to my inquiry about the hose angle on the thermostat housings. He indicated that a separate metal conversion top is available to go with the housing and that it should alleviate installation problems assuming they even occur. So I ordered the clip-in sensor housing from him and to play it safe also ordered the conversion top. Hopefully between the two tops I will not have any problems.
 






Cool. Todd's customer service and knowledge is amazing. He was the former owner of the MyST web site and to this day is known as the original Sport Trac guru. Not sure about the torque spec for the aftermarket aluminum housings, but Ford's torque value for the six lower and upper bolts is only 89 INCH pounds, or about 7-1/2 foot pounds. Good luck with your R&R and keep us posted.
 






I torqued all to factory spec
 






I have the austekk been installed for almost two years now

4.0 SOHC Metal Thermostat Housing Comparison
Two years on the Austekk. Can't argue with success. To that end which RTV product did you use on your housing? Did you apply the RTV only between the two housing pieces to help seal them better or also at other locations? Thanks for the info!
 






Two years on the Austekk. Can't argue with success. To that end which RTV product did you use on your housing? Did you apply the RTV only between the two housing pieces to help seal them better or also at other locations? Thanks for the info!
I used permetex grey and only between the two halves and on the lower gasket just for good measure
 
























Got my Austekk housing today. Disassembled it, laid down a layer of RTV, and now waiting overnight for it to cure. In the interim I am planning to kill two birds with one stone. Have had a problem with the car not starting. Checked the plugs, they were in bad shape, so replaced them. That took care of about 80% of the starting problem. What happens now is that the car turns over, tries to start, sputters, and finally starts after about 5 seconds. Once it starts there are no problems. Still seems like a possible fuel starvation. Got my fuel pressure gauge out and I am looking at about 58 psi with the ignition on and up to 65 psi with the engine running. Turn off the engine and the pressure holds indicating that there are no leaks anywhere and the fuel pump valve is operating properly. The pressure also holds with the ignition on. Checked the holding pressure over a 10 minute interval. So that seems ok except the pressure is way higher then the Haynes manual specifies. So trying to locate the pressure regulator and for the life of me I can't find it. It is not where the Haynes manual says it should be which is on the passenger side fuel injector rail. On my car all I see is just a fuel line going directly from the fuel manifold to the fuel injector rail. So can anyone help me with finding it or is there in fact a pressure regulator in my car? Thanks for your help!
 






I believe it's in the tank I'm sure at @koda2000 can help you

Imo
..fuel pump check valve or just a weak pump
 






I believe it's in the tank I'm sure at @koda2000 can help you

Imo
..fuel pump check valve or just a weak pump

I would think that if it was the fuel pump check valve then with the ignition off, the fuel pressure would rapidly go down to zero. In my case the fuel pressure holds steady at 58 psi. As far as the fuel pump goes, with the engine running it puts out 65 psi which according to Haynes is the maximum it can provide, so that part is within spec. I'll run the tests again and see if there is anything obvious I’ve missed. Not looking forward to doing work with anything inside the fuel tank. Thanks for the info Donald. Appreciate your help!
 






How long will it hold pressure after its off
When you go to start it cycle the key a few times first
 






How long will it hold pressure after its off
When you go to start it cycle the key a few times first

I only experimented for about 20 minutes or so. Pressure did not drop during that time.
 






Sorry to not get to y'all sooner but y'all basically got it

My 99 came with threaded sensor s
I upgraded :D
I was gonna get a different top outlet but this one is working good enough for me I'm not to picky....most of the time...
Donald, did you have to remove the intake manifold to install the thermostat housing or was it doable without manifold removal?
 






On my model engine bay all I removed was the
throttle body fan and it's shroud
Alternator and it's bracket seems like a lot but better than the intake
This way I had room on top and on bottom for the bypass hose which you must replace with the housing what a pita to do by itself plus it's cheap
 






Thanks for the info. If I understand this correctly though, by removing all the listed parts you were able to do the job without taking out the intake manifold?
 






Thanks for the info. If I understand this correctly though, by removing all the listed parts you were able to do the job without taking out the intake manifold?
Yep
 









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Finished the installation about two week ago. Had a problem with fitment of the Austekk conversion top. Ultimately Austekk sent me a replacement that did work. No leaks. Everything is working properly. Dash gauge issue has been resolved, it's back to showing the correct temperature. Temperature as reported by the onboard computer has also been corrected due to a new sensor and thermostat. So all is well in this area. Next need to solve the flashing o/d issue with P0732 and P0735 codes. But that is an “adventure” for a later time. Thank you very much Donald and Swshawaii for all your help!
 






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