Supercharger install 9+lb boost! Full build

[94Eddie]

Ok what did you break?
was it on this drive train?
Your getting me worried now
The hardest pulls will be the data logging and tuning

The first thing I took out was the T5 manual transmission. I was doing a low RPM pull in third dear and POW, the transmission was toast. Installed a T56 six speed. Then the Ford upgraded clutch went out and was replaced with a SPEC Stage 3 part. Then the stock differential got the clutch packs fried. I ended up keeping it and rebuilding it with an extra clutch plate on each side. This held but if I ran slicks and launched hard it might not have. While it probably would not have failed, I installed a beefy aluminum drive shaft. I also preemptively moved to 31 spline five lug axles because this was a known weakness for high low end torque builds. I think the last thing was beefier motor mounts. Some of these are preemptive but I think all but the drive shaft would have failed eventually. I was making 462 ft-lbs of torque at 2,100 RPM at the wheels and over 400 ft-lbs to redline. That little 302 pulled like a diesel in the lower RPM range. Also, I was running 16 psi with water injection and a J&S Safeguard to control detonation. The J&S Safeguard is an amazing piece of electronics.

I was more joking with my comment. Since you are working with a 4.0L and less boost you probably won't have any issues. That said, I also don't know the strengths and weaknesses of your particular drive train. The big item is to control detonation which you are addressing with water injection and a tune. I know many 4.0L engines in Mustangs have been supercharged but the ones I know about have all used centrifugal blowers which don't deliver much of a power increase under 4k RPM. I think you will be fine if the tune and water injection is dialed in. Also, 4X4 components are beefier, in general, for off road use which is working in your favor.

 

[CDW6212R]

That J&S Safeguard device is a good protection item for any higher boost to prevent detonation. It's on my list with the supercharger system items.

The V6 transmission is the big weakest link in the Explorers, all of the four and five speed autos. In ideal built condition, they do very well. But variances in original QC, or the results by a builder, put most in a questionable condition. Hopefully yours is one of the best put together versions.

 

[donalds]

The first thing I took out was the T5 manual transmission. I was doing a low RPM pull in third dear and POW, the transmission was toast. Installed a T56 six speed. Then the Ford upgraded clutch went out and was replaced with a SPEC Stage 3 part. Then the stock differential got the clutch packs fried. I ended up keeping it and rebuilding it with an extra clutch plate on each side. This held but if I ran slicks and launched hard it might not have. While it probably would not have failed, I installed a beefy aluminum drive shaft. I also preemptively moved to 31 spline five lug axles because this was a known weakness for high low end torque builds. I think the last thing was beefier motor mounts. Some of these are preemptive but I think all but the drive shaft would have failed eventually. I was making 462 ft-lbs of torque at 2,100 RPM at the wheels and over 400 ft-lbs to redline. That little 302 pulled like a diesel in the lower RPM range. Also, I was running 16 psi with water injection and a J&S Safeguard to control detonation. The J&S Safeguard is an amazing piece of electronics.

I was more joking with my comment. Since you are working with a 4.0L and less boost you probably won't have any issues. That said, I also don't know the strengths and weaknesses of your particular drive train. The big item is to control detonation which you are addressing with water injection and a tune. I know many 4.0L engines in Mustangs have been supercharged but the ones I know about have all used centrifugal blowers which don't deliver much of a power increase under 4k RPM. I think you will be fine if the tune and water injection is dialed in. Also, 4X4 components are beefier, in general, for off road use which is working in your favor.

That J&S Safeguard device is a good protection item for any higher boost to prevent detonation. It's on my list with the supercharger system items.

The V6 transmission is the big weakest link in the Explorers, all of the four and five speed autos. In ideal built condition, they do very well. But variances in original QC, or the results by a builder, put most in a questionable condition. Hopefully yours is one of the best put together versions.

You guys are great source of info

Got some more parts

 

[donalds]

 

[donalds]

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Very nice parts

 

[94Eddie]

The water injection kits have come a long way since I was using one. Back then the only one available was for turbo Buick applications and they ran straight alcohol. Mine went through a pump in short order due to rust from running only water. The controllers these days are way better as is the rest of the components. Plus, tuners are far more knowledgeable when tuning with them installed. My first tune with one had the tuner scratching his head trying to figure out how to deal with it. Once I explained that he needed to treat it like an intercooler he did fairly well but I always felt the tune might not be quite right. This is why I bought the J&S Safeguard. It doesn't care why detonation happens it just steps in and eliminates it globally. Then it ramps timing back up until it needs to be eliminated again. It is the final backstop to prevent the damage detonation causes even if it is caused by bad gas, a vacuum leak etc.

 

[Blown]

I'm going to disagree and not looking for an argument. I tune with the Tweecer RT and the Ford EEC handles boost very well. With a good device like the Tweecer or SCT and a good tune, there is no need for an additional tuner such as the J&S Safeguard.

 

[CDW6212R]

I believe the main need for the backup system to watch detonation, is for unusual conditions. If the engine is modified from the prior PCM tuning, it's not good to expect the computer to keep everything ideal. Also, when poor fuel is used, or you drive in a different altitude, or you raise the boost with a pulley change etc, those things will effect the actual A/F ratio and the ideal timing needed.

 

[94Eddie]

I'm going to disagree and not looking for an argument. I tune with the Tweecer RT and the Ford EEC handles boost very well. With a good device like the Tweecer or SCT and a good tune, there is no need for an additional tuner such as the J&S Safeguard.

The J&S Safeguard is a not a tuner. It listens for detonation and tracks this on a cylinder by cylinder basis. It detects detonation and it knows which cylynder detonated. The next time that cylinder fires it has pulled two degrees of timing from it. The next time it fires if it still hears detonation it pulls two more degrees. When it no longer hears detonation it adds one degree of timing back for that cylinder on the next compression stroke. It does this simultaneously for all cylinders. It doesn't adjust fuel, boost or anything other than timing. It only cares about detonation and which cylinder detonated. It does this function transparently. This is something a tune can not accomplish. Many things can go wrong and cause detonation and when this happens it can destroy an engine in the blink of an eye. The J&S Safeguard steps in and stops the process immediately BEFORE damage can occur. A PCM cannot react this fast regardless of how it is tuned. I use a Tweecer RT in my Mustang and it just can't prevent detonation on the fly in any form.

An example of a situation where a Safeguard would be very valuable is as follows. Say you are in the process of making a 1/4 mile run and a hose cracks, breaks etc. and causes a massive vacuum leak. This immediately spikes a lean condition which causes severe detonation. The computer won't know anything about this development and will think all is well and detonation would likely destroy the engine. The Safeguard would hear the detonation, immediately start pulling time 2 degrees on the very next cylinder fire on every cylinder detonating and continue until there is no longer detonation. In 0.06 seconds (time to turn five engine revolutions at 5,000 RPM) it will have pulled 10 degrees of timing from every detonating cylinder. When a person has thousands, if not tens of thousands, of dollars into an engine build, the J&S Safeguard (~$600) is cheap insurance, IMO. Especially on engines using forced induction.

I am also not looking to argue. I just want to point out what this device does and how it can stave off a very expensive engine disaster for a relatively small outley of money.

 

[Blown]

The 351W came with a knock sensor and certainly does pull timing fast enough to save the engine. I eliminated that knock sensor as with boost it tended to give false readings under the extra powerful bang with boost and pulled timing.

The EEC will pull timing very fast for high IAT and coolant temps preventing knock before a knock sensor pics it up. You can adjust the temperatures at which it pulls timing and how much it pulls.

I could see using the J&S Safeguard if running on the ragged edge with higher boost and trying to kill a 1/4 mile. I suppose anything could happen but most can be prevented with good maintenance and a good tune for boost.

 

[94Eddie]

The 351W came with a knock sensor and certainly does pull timing fast enough to save the engine. I eliminated that knock sensor as with boost it tended to give false readings under the extra powerful bang with boost and pulled timing.

The EEC will pull timing very fast for high IAT and coolant temps preventing knock before a knock sensor pics it up. You can adjust the temperatures at which it pulls timing and how much it pulls.

I could see using the J&S Safeguard if running on the ragged edge with higher boost and trying to kill a 1/4 mile. I suppose anything could happen but most can be prevented with good maintenance and a good tune for boost.

An ECU will not adjust timing as precisely or as quickly as a J&S Safeguard. Depending on the age of the vehicle the ECU may not be programmed to do it at all. Also, the engine will likely be destroyed by detonation long before a spike in temperature is registered by the ECU as there is a significant lag before overheating occurs. Considering the cost of speed parts these days, $600 is peanuts in the overall cost of even a moderate build. I imagine newer vehicles with forced induction have fairly capable engine management. Even so I doubt they will control detonation as precisely as a J&S Safeguard while allowing the most performance from the engine. It will fine tune the timing to allow a much more aggressive tune with a far lower risk level. For older vehicles it is a godsend device because it provides a sophisticated level of timing control while retaining the stock computer. If one is running a safe tune then the need for it is reduced.

Before I installed this device on my '89 Mustang I got really good at changing head gaskets (mostly on the driver's side). The 302 had a hard time handling the 16 psi because the heads would lift ever so slightly under boost due to not having enough head bolts. About any detonation would blow a head gasket. After installing the Safeguard, I never needed to change a head gasket.

 

[donalds]

I'm going to request a safe tune just as I did before
The j&s safe guard will have to wait but I am strongly considering it
I am gonna run a lower temp thermostat and cooler plugs maybe
That may help with temps just a little

 

[Blown]

Yep, I run one range cooler spark plugs and a 180 degree thermostat.

 

[Blown]

An ECU will not adjust timing as precisely or as quickly as a J&S Safeguard. Depending on the age of the vehicle the ECU may not be programmed to do it at all. Also, the engine will likely be destroyed by detonation long before a spike in temperature is registered by the ECU as there is a significant lag before overheating occurs. Considering the cost of speed parts these days, $600 is peanuts in the overall cost of even a moderate build. I imagine newer vehicles with forced induction have fairly capable engine management. Even so I doubt they will control detonation as precisely as a J&S Safeguard while allowing the most performance from the engine. It will fine tune the timing to allow a much more aggressive tune with a far lower risk level. For older vehicles it is a godsend device because it provides a sophisticated level of timing control while retaining the stock computer. If one is running a safe tune then the need for it is reduced.

Before I installed this device on my '89 Mustang I got really good at changing head gaskets (mostly on the driver's side). The 302 had a hard time handling the 16 psi because the heads would lift ever so slightly under boost due to not having enough head bolts. About any detonation would blow a head gasket. After installing the Safeguard, I never needed to change a head gasket.

No!

Fact - The EEC will pull timing very fast and precisely when equipped with a knock sensor and save the engine. My 84 Bronco 351W had a knock sensor.

Fact -It will do so just as quickly with high intake air temperature and that is tuned for in boosted applications.

Fact - Yes, I agree, coolant temp rises more slowly.

Fact -Great, the safeguard does pulls timing upon knock at a cylinder level!

Fact - If your motor is built correctly, maintained, and tuned correctly there should be no knock.

Opinion - Out of a Preponderance of Caution? I agree it is likely a good safeguard, but again, IMHO only if you have spent a bunch on your engine, pushing mucho boosto, racing your build and you are hitting tuning limits. Those are probably not the case with an Explorer.

 

[94Eddie]

Everyone is entitled to their own facts. I have seen a lot of engines blow in the blink of an eye with a OEM knock sensor. Also, no one plans to destroy their engines but ****e happens and many times it can't be foreseen.

 

[donalds]

I had to order a self sealing tank tap as suggested by @4pointslow
It DiD NOT come in the kit and the tank that came with the kit don't have a removable one
I'm waiting on the pulley and intake temp sensor relocation kit

I'm getting lots of questions answered thanks all

Stay tuned

 

[Blown]

Good on relocating the IAT sensor!

Tables for IAT, "Fuel Injector Enrichment When Hot", "Spark Retard for ACT (Air Charge Temp), and Spark Retard ACT Multiplier.

If one can tune, the EEC will add fuel with high IAT's, pull timing at specific IAT, and use multipliers for how much timing it pulls.

I am going with my valid opinion that the J&S Safeguard is an extra expense and not necessary if you have a good tune.

 

[Blown]

Everyone is entitled to their own facts. I have seen a lot of engines blow in the blink of an eye with a OEM knock sensor. Also, no one plans to destroy their engines but ****e happens and many times it can't be foreseen.

Fact - You have no way of knowing if the Safeguard would have been fast enough to save those engines "in the blink of an eye". I am sure you inspected each blown engine and found it had an OEM knock sensor that let them down? You don't know if they tuned the build with and for the stock knock sensor? You don't know that perhaps they had a Safeguard installed?

I am going with an assumption that you don't know how to tune. In that case and pushing it to the limit, you should have sought the help of a J&S Safeguard and upgraded running gear to the power you are making before breaking. The Safegaurd is more expensive than my Tweecer, is an add-on out of an abundance of caution IMHO, unless perhaps you are pushing to the edge and/or racing. Sounds more like a Mustang thing to me.

I am 100% sure that this threads build will be fine as he is doing it right and I have been there and done that at 8.5lbs of boost.

 

[donalds]

I am 100% sure that this threads build will be fine as he is doing it right and I have been there and done that at 8.5lbs of boost.

I'm trying to do it right
I could just throw it together but I'm not
I just got 30ft of Oem split loom tubing high temp to cover up the wires and the red nylon tubing the snow kit needs a 20 amp keyed power source so I'm just gonna use a relay with a key powers trigger

 

[94Eddie]

Fact - You have no way of knowing if the Safeguard would have been fast enough to save those engines "in the blink of an eye". I am sure you inspected each blown engine and found it had an OEM knock sensor that let them down? You don't know if they tuned the build with and for the stock knock sensor? You don't know that perhaps they had a Safeguard installed?

I am going with an assumption that you don't know how to tune. In that case and pushing it to the limit, you should have sought the help of a J&S Safeguard and upgraded running gear to the power you are making before breaking. The Safegaurd is more expensive than my Tweecer, is an add-on out of an abundance of caution IMHO, unless perhaps you are pushing to the edge and/or racing. Sounds more like a Mustang thing to me.

I am 100% sure that this threads build will be fine as he is doing it right and I have been there and done that at 8.5lbs of boost.

Is a Safeguard required? No. Does a Safeguard provide a substantial safety factor to a high compression and/or forced induction build? Absolutely. Does a Safeguard allow one to run a more aggressive tune? Absolutely. Is a Safegaurd for everyone? No.

Also, I had my Mustang professionally tuned on a dyno so I am not sure what your point is on this matter. As I stated, the 302 has an issue running high levels of boost in that it needs more head studs to keep the heads from lifting. Roots and twin screw blowers make full boost from idle to redline. They are harder to tune than centrifugal blowers and turbos for this reason. This makes them very touchy if ANYTHING goes amiss to cause detonation. I got good at changing head gaskets for this reason and I wanted to run a fairly aggressive tune. The tuner did exactly what I asked him to do. After installing the Safeguard I never changed another head gasket while running the same boost level and tune.

There are a lot of things that can cause detonation. The pump goes out in the water/alcohol injection system. You get a tank of bad gas. A sensor gets wonky. The ECUs in older vehicles are just not that capable/fast and many don't even have the capability to monitor a knock sensor. There is a reason that people doing serious builds of older vehicles ditch the OEM computer. I had thousands upon thousands of dollars wrapped up in my build. I would bet the OP of this thread does too and will be spending more in the future. A $600 piece of gear that allows the most performance from a forced induction engine while providing a high degree of protection against a catastrophic engine failure is a bargain, IMO. It allows one to run higher HP levels which is the whole point of modding for more power.