Crates and Strokers...What engine upgrade should I do...

[tmsoko]

I want to get the stock line, so I can just swap the headers into my truck - and sell later once I make the 1 3/4" stainless set, without the buyer having to replace anything other than the exhaust parts.

I have set this aside for a few days, since I have some basic maintenance I need to complete prior to 1/3/05. Shocks, trans fluid, radiator fluid, blower oil, install trans temp sensor, ...

 

[liv2surf34]

Just curious but what would be the biggest/best engine to drop into an explorer, if you already have the 5.0 and want to swap for the baddest motor out there, but dont want to modify the body too much(like minor hood, etc) basically make it a monster sleeper, and what trans etc?

 

[tmsoko]

You could do a 351W based stroker without too much difficulty. It would require some custom machines parts: crank damper, trigger, pulley assy and cam position sensor (where distributor goes). You would also need custom coil and throttle brackets. A custom oil pan would be necessary, as would custom headers. Finally a small amount of dash panel "dimpling" to clear drivers valve cover. With this engine you could go crazy with HP/TQ from a 427-454ci stroker.

Aside from that you are either into sick custom work for a bick block or 5.4L lightning engine or you could go with an easier 302 based stroker. With a dart or similar block you could go to ~360ci, S/C it for serious boost and to 600rwhp.

Trans, stick with the 4R70W, but upgrade to handle the power. It is a very good trans to work with.

 

[liv2surf34]

Yea i was looking at some 351w that have been stroked to 427 and im glad to see that it would work without too much modification, i just might be headed down that road in not too long.

But where should I go for the custom parts, just a machine shop around here or is there a good place online?

Thanks

 

[tmsoko]

You will have to work with a local machine shop / engine builder. These parts are doable, but not "simple". You will need to have a 351W distributor cut down / welded / machined for the cam sensor. The damper is a little involved, I have started but not completed one for my stroker. You may need a custom pulley for this to work right.

To solve the damper issue, you could always balance the 351W stroker to 50oz, and use the stock damper / flexplate.

Good luck!

 

[CDW6212R]

Careful Todd, did you think about the 351W's taller block? The extra 1.3 inches towards the AC box might be too close. I know another 50-75 cubic inches would be nicer than about a 347. The tighter fit, and extra weight, might not be worth it to most people.
That's why we are looking at the supercharger. Our 302 based combination will be simply a header change, plus the supercharger. Anything else is just support improvements, not significant fabrication.

How is your catalytic converter pipe coming along? Are you moving the collector down and back at all? Have you seen the 2WD chassis yet, to say if the cat pipe would fit both? Night,
Don

 

[tmsoko]

The 351W will clear the air box. It is tight and you need to use stock style valve covers, but it clears. Back in 97 or 98, Ford SVE build one, as a consideration for the Grand Cherokee competition with their 5.8L. I got to review this vehicle in detail and drive it. It was FUN! The major areas of concern were those I listed.

I have deleted the rear cats and modified my driver's side FRPP header. I will post some pictures in a day or two. As for my custom headers, dead in the water for a while. I trial fit them and need some major changes to #6 and #7. I also need to figure out how to get #8 in the truck, as it would not fit with the inner fender in place. I may need to remove the inner fender to install, then put inner fender back.

I may scrap the idea of doing these headers to work within the factory confines of the vehicle. I think I will just go straight to the 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 stainless and ignore brake lines and trans cooler lines. Then re-plumb those when I am done.

 

[rocket 5979]

I may scrap the idea of doing these headers to work within the factory confines of the vehicle. I think I will just go straight to the 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 stainless and ignore brake lines and trans cooler lines. Then re-plumb those when I am done.

That is the best way to do it. When I ran the brake, fuel, and tranny lines for my buddies 69 Mustang Coupe project we had everything else in and then I just got under the car and started having a heyday. It is not hard at all as long as you keep focus of where you need to go and what you need to stay away from. Even then, big deal if you run one wrong and have to scrap it, your not out much money. I ran hard lines all the way from the C4 tranny inlet/outlets to the inlet of the radiator and the other to the outlet of the aux. tranny cooler. Hard lines were then ran from the outlet of radiator up around to the tranny cooler. Rock solid, easy to do once ya get the hang of it and wont rupture as easily from debris flying up like a rubber hose may do. Another thing you can do while your messing with that is paint or powdercoat it to match any theme you got going on in the engine bay. Looks nice with matching fuel,brake, and tranny lines along with all the other same colored stuff there too. Headers are alot harder to fab than tranny lines, a bend that might take hours to work out on a set of headers to get them to clear something will only take 20 more seconds to think of a way to route the line and bend it to that path.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good thoughts Robert. I would avoid playing with the brake lines, unless they are really a problem, and there is a better route to run them.

As I suggested before, the trans lines are no big deal. Recall that I mantioned that I built all steel 3/8" lines for my 86 Crown Vic. That was before I had done any flaring, so I bought several lengths, bolted on the police engine cooler, and started bending. It was going on a rebuilt 351W engine and AOD, and added about six hours to the project. Afterwords, the only leak I ever had was a crack in the cooler itself.

Todd, I don't know how well the 1.75" headers will fit , but I would probably be satisfied with the 1.625" headers. Consider selling them to me after you finish those, with whatever trans line changes have to be made. Good luck,
Don

 

[liv2surf34]

Im looking into getting a 427 off ebay and having a local machine shop help out, any other problems I will run into besides the ones previously mentioned, and also will it be worth it really?

 

[tmsoko]

Well worth it! The torque of a 427 will be very nice! My brother used to run a mustang drag car with a 410W. It twisted the tool steel input shaft on his TopLoader prior to twisting his crank! Had to go to a Billet steel crank to handle the power. Of course that was at 13:1 compression, so you should be fine

The areas of concern for 351W based engine: 1) oil pan, due to larger rear main, 2) balance to 50oz or custom damper, 3) custom headers and Cat Pipes ($$$), 4) custom A/C line, due to farther spread of accessories (2"), 5) dimpling of the dash panel near drivers valve cover, 6) modified coil bracket, due to head spacing / valley width, 7) modifies throttle cable bracket due to #6, 8) flex plate to match the damper (0oz, 28oz, or 50oz),

That should be about it. How soon are you looking to do this? I have been kicking around the idea of doing a 410W for the past few days. I might scrap the idea of a 349 and sell my parts to do the Windsor swap. I will be starting it March or so.

 

[liv2surf34]

Yea I would say starting in spring or summer, do you have AIM- if so IM me at liv2surf34

 

[BrianB31]

Todd,

Did the SVE guys say it was a custom oil pan? I was talking the guys downstairs and they think a 351 oil pan out of late model E Series van might do the job.

I'm going to check out the old microfish for the part # and compare it to the Explorer pan.

 

[tmsoko]

From what I remember they said custom, but you could be right. I have not seen an Econoline pan. Eitherway, an Explorer 302 pan will not work. That would be great if the Econ. pan would work - one less custom part!