Crates and Strokers...What engine upgrade should I do...

[RiverRat]

Ok I live in CA and have a legal 96 5.0 Explorer engine in my Ranger. I've had the truck this way for two years and it's been great. It sounds sweet and can suprise quite a few "would be" racers off the line.

Looking at trans improvement kits Transgo and Bauman are the way to go? I'm looking for quicker, firmer shifts from the 4R70W slushbox.

Engine upgrades? My engine has 100K miles on it. It seems strong as 210 hp should feel. I'd like to get around 300-320 HP at the crank minimum without going forced induction.

Check out these FMS engines
Will the M-6007-XE3 302 ci 340hp/310tq or the M-6007-A342 342ci 400hp/390 tq bolt up? Would I be able to use my stock fuel injectors, fuel pump, intake, computer, and FMS exhaust manifolds on these engines?

I've been reading up on strokers, 5.8l swaps, etc but haven't found the answer to what will work with the EECV system?

If i were to buy a stroker kit and put it into my 96 explorer engine what mods to the EEC system would I have to make? Would it still have low emissions?

I have a 93 5.0 mustang engine/harness sitting in the garage. Could i use it for anything?

I don't know much about aftermarket mods

 

[BeauJ]

For the shifts, Baumann is the way to go or a chip will help firm up the shifts too.

If you can go without driving your truck for a while, don't waste the money on the crate and use the original block.

You can use all the same accesories, but with the new power you might want to upgrade some of it. Not really sure on how CA emissions work, but if you have cats you should be fine.

 

[Oversquare]

I've been considering replacing my stock 5.0 with a stroker as well. I have the stock 5.0 already, but am looking into the FMS short block 347 stroker from Summit Racing. That, plus an E303 cam, and a valve spring upgrade on the stock heads, and all the stock pieces will be used. Not only is it inexpensive (relatively), but it will LOOK stock when you open the hood. Should put out an honest 300hp & 300 ft/lbs. It will also work with the factory computer, sensors, and pass smog.

-B

 

[Oversquare]

On a side note...

Looks like Ford released the new Mustang in a White Body program. Gonna git me one of those...

-B

 

[BeauJ]

With a nice cam and set of headers, it will put down 300 hp and 300 ft lbs. with no problem at all.

 

[rocket 5979]

Ok this might be a long reply, but here goes.

Riverrat--First off get the Baumann shift kit. Set it to a minimum stage 3c if your going to be running the stroker. I set mine to stage 4C and my buddies in his mustang to stage 5b. All those engines should work as long as they are for fuel injected use. As long as they are based off of the 302 block then they wont have a problem bolting up to the 4R70W tranny. Stock injectors will have to go, fuel pump as well, intake can stay as long as it is ported, but I reccomend getting a better one for $500. Computer will have to be chipped or reflashed to make it all work once your pretty much done. Dont go with the stock cam and dont go with any of the FMS letter cams, IE X,B,E and such cams. For only a little more you can get a way better cam that will do a stroker justice. E cam is just plain way too small. Also get some kind of headers, whether it be the regular shorties or have a custom set made. Sorry to say, but when you go with a big boost in power, alot of stuff has to be changed to make it work not only so that it makes the power you want, but also so it doesnt self terminate. You could also build that 93 stang 5.0 engine to a 331 or 347 stroker and save a little money and with that extra money get some better mods for power. Forget about the harness and all that stuff, stick with the explorer system, maybe put an aftermarket digital ignition system in it if you decide to top 400 hp.




Oversquare--If you go with the stroker DO NOT GET THE E CAM! It is way too small, not enough duration and lift for the long stroke of that engine. Also make sure that you get your computer retuned either by reflashing the EEC itself or chipping it. One thing I notice you seem to want to do is just change the block out to 347 and the cam and that is it. It would be highly advisable to change out or port the stock heads and intake as well. Injectors will have to go as well. If you plan on staying at about an even 300 then your stock fuel pump will work as long as you throw an adjustable fuel pressure regulator in there and run a higher psi of fuel then tune it out through injectors, mas, and computer tune. But a new 255 lph fuel pump from Walbro is only $120 so if ya can, throw one in. It cannot hurt and will only help. Stroker is a big mod just like a supercharger is, so people need to keep in mind that besides geting the 347 itself, there are other things that NEED to happen and yet others that are highly recommended. Good luck. Hope I answered both your questions thoroughly enough.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

For the most part, I agree with Rocket but...

The XE3 is a long block complete with X303 alum heads and the E303 cam. The Explorer GT40 intake, injectors, t/b and mas should bolt right up. A kirban afpr and dyno tune would produce excellent results.

The A342 short block is balanced for a 28.2 damper so keep that in mind. Your GT40 iron heads will work but should be messaged as well as the intake manifold. Injectors, t/b and mas should also be upgraded for a stroker motor. Then some serious dyno time to dial it all in.

My vote would be for the long block, but its your money not mine.

For the 4R70W go to www.tccoa.com and read the tech articles and change the accumulator pistons/springs and do the jmod.

just my .02 worth.

 

[Big Duke]

For the 5.0 which 347 do u go w/? Short or long block

 

[BeauJ]

I think all explorer's came with a LB.

 

[Big Duke]

ok..So we're looking at at least $4,000...plus all the necessary upgrade mods.

 

[Billy177]

if you are gonna pull the engine bump up the compression to around 9.5 if you have no plans for boost later. if you do all the work yourself it shouldent be expensive 302 parts are dirt cheap

 

[rocket 5979]

Hey Bill, I didnt really take a look at those engine links that ol boy provided. But from what you said about the first one with the E-303 cam. I hope that is still a 5.0 302 and not a stroker. That E cam just plain does not have enough lift or duration to do a stroker justice, even if it did use 1.7 rr's. The longer the stroke, the more air it can push in per stroke. Thus longer stroke equals more time that the valves need to stay open(duration) and more space (lift) that the valves need to make for air to rush in. The little captions were for other people wanting know how cams work as I am sure you dont require the lesson. I am not saying get a full drag cam that makes the truck sound like it is going to rattle itself apart. I say just get a nice somewhat aggressive dual pattern cam that will be good for the combo. Also depending on how much power he is going to be putting out will determine the strain he will put in his fuel system. As long as he isnt getting wild, then maybe the stockers will work ok. But do much more than just the stroker and stock heads and intake and he will need to go with 24's or something like that. At the very least get the stock intake and heads P&P'ed so they flow better. It depends on money constraints, but it is my opinion that dropping a 347 shortblock into an engine bay with stock heads and intake, with a mismatched cam, along with alot of other stock stuff is just halfazzing it.

I think all explorer's came with a LB.

I WOULD HOPE SO!!! If they didnt then they would be missing half the engine from the factory! lol. I hope that comment you made was meant to be thick with sarcasm. lol.




Hey Duke, it all comes down the personal preference and how much money you have at one time. Building an engine from paycheck to paycheck you would opt for the shortblock and buy parts individually from there and go from there. Just to clarify because it sounds like some of you may be mixing four different terms up here. There is Smallblock and Bigblock, and then there is Shortblock and Longblock. Smallblock and bigblock have to do with the size of the engine block and displacement. Shortblock and longblock are just terms that refer to how far an engine is built. Shortblock is the block and rotating assembly installed, longblock is the aforementioned plus heads and cam w/ timing chain installed. I would choose the shortblock myself because it is less complete, so I can build most of the engine myself. I like to do that because it think it is fun. Others may not. It all comes down to personal preference of how much money at what time you want to invest, how much time you want to spend, how much you know about building engines, how comfortable you are with using that knowledge to build your own engine, and how cheap the labor may be to get it done. I could have done my camshaft and rr swap in my old truck but i didnt. Not because I wasnt comfortable with it, but because I knew the guy did great work, he charged next to nothing to do it, it helped him out a little with money, and I was going on a field exercise so I didnt want to come back to install a cam and all that and rush that while beating the rush to get my supercharger parts in too.

 

[rocket 5979]

if you are gonna pull the engine bump up the compression to around 9.5 if you have no plans for boost later. if you do all the work yourself it shouldent be expensive 302 parts are dirt cheap

Heck bump it up to more than that if you will plan to run only N/A!!! I would say around 10.5-11:1 CR.

 

[Big Duke]

Alright, Rocket easy with the wisecracks. I don't pretend to know d!ck about engines. If I did I wouldn't be on this site asking a million questions. But its all good and thanks for the in-depth tutorial.

 

[rocket 5979]

Alright, Rocket easy with the wisecracks. I don't pretend to know d!ck about engines. If I did I wouldn't be on this site asking a million questions. But its all good and thanks for the in-depth tutorial.

Big Duke, I wasnt trying to make a wisecrack against you. I was just joking with chopin. I did go a litle further in depth than I normally would because it seemed like it may have been needed here. It is hard to judge a persons knowledge or experience from typewritten words. So if I offended anyone that was not my intention. I am just trying to put good info and advice out there.

Rob

 

[BeauJ]

Rocket,

About the long block thing I was just joking. I was drunk at the time of writing it and look at what time it was.

Like you said also, if he plans on being N/A I'd at least go with an 11:1 comp.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Rocket, I agree with what your saying, unfortunately we don't know exactly what RiverRat is really looking for. He did mention emission compliant, so the FRPP long block (yes it is a 302) or the stroker short block may cause him lots of problem with the smog police.

So RiverRat, your options may be some what limited, but the motor you have right know could easily put out 260 to 275 with just bolt-ons and should run smog legal.

 

[rocket 5979]

Rocket, I agree with what your saying, unfortunately we don't know exactly what RiverRat is really looking for. He did mention emission compliant, so the FRPP long block (yes it is a 302) or the stroker short block may cause him lots of problem with the smog police.

So RiverRat, your options may be some what limited, but the motor you have right know could easily put out 260 to 275 with just bolt-ons and should run smog legal.

Ooph! I didnt even think about emissions. I forgot to notice he's from Cali. Yeah that will severely limit his options. Im so used to Mississippi and the freedom involved of no emissions testing that it sometimes slips my mind. But like Bill said, you could easily build that existing 302 to around 275 hp with bolts ons and other work. That is why forced induction is so nice because it still usually allows a vehicle to pass the sniffer test.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

And I'm guilty of not checking out the FRPP links in the original post. M-6007-A342 is a new for 04) long block 342 stroker motor. This is one serious crate engine with limited street application. No way this puppy will pass smog.

 

[Billy177]

you could also try some rhodes lifters for power and emissions purposes if you are staying with a hydraulic cam it kinda works like vtech and would allow youi to go the next step up on the cam and still retain good bottom end http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=189136&prmenbr=361 i really don't see you failing emissions when you have 4 cats