Cruise Control Problem on '03 Sport Trac

[burrcor]

Remote start added - now no cruise

I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination but I'll try and help you. Exactly what have you replaced? Are your brake lights operating properly?

Principles of Operation

The speed control system is designed to maintain a selected vehicle speed between 48 and 200 km/h (30 and 125 mph).

Whenever the system is engaged and active, a speed control set indicator will be illuminated in the instrument cluster.

The brake pedal position (BPP) switch is normally closed to ground. When the brake pedal is applied with the speed control system engaged, the BOP switch closes to battery voltage, putting the speed control in stand-by mode.

NOTE: The speed control module is integral to the speed control servo.

Normally, when the brake pedal is pressed, the speed control module deactivates the speed control system. Under increased brake pedal effort, the deactivator switch, a normally closed switch, will open and remove power to the speed control servo clutch, releasing the throttle independently of the speed control module.

The clockspring provides the electrical interface between the steering column wiring and the speed control switches in the steering wheel.

The inputs to the speed control servo are the:

vehicle speed signal
speed control switches
brake pedal position (BPP) switch
deactivator switch
The outputs of the speed control servo are the:

speed control indicator
speed control cable controlled throttle position

Inspection and Verification

NOTE: If any concerns are noted with the speedometer, stoplamps, or horn, address those concerns by referring to the appropriate sections before continuing speed control diagnosis.

Verify the customer concern.
NOTE: Any aftermarket modifications, including but not limited to those listed below, may cause the speed control to not operate correctly:

Any wiring or lamp modifications affecting the brake lamp operation
LED brake lamps
Non-factory installed trailer wiring
Radios (speed sensitive, auto mute)
Remote starters and alarms
Lighting and electrical accessory modifications

Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical or electrical damage:
Visually inspect the speed control actuator and accelerator controls.
Visually inspect the speed control cable without removing it and ensure smooth cable operation. Inspect the speed control cable connection to the throttle body.
Visually inspect the accelerator cable without removing it and ensure smooth cable operation. Inspect the accelerator cable connection to the throttle body. Also check for cable interference with the carpet, bulkhead grommet, insulation and instrument panel wiring.

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The other day I had a Ford remote start added to my '05 Limited (which I've had since new with 45k on it) The guy who did the job is an authorized Ford installer. When I went to use the cruise today, it did not work at all, no lights, no nothing. I called him & he explained the installation process and stated that he had nothing to do with the cruise. He also said to check the fuse so I read the book and checked the net only to learn (I think) that there is no fuse for just the cruise. I tried looking for info here but can't tie the two together.

It does seem that the installer guy had to be around the brake electrics and steering column for the remote start install

Has anyone had this done and had the same problem?
Or what to check first?

Thanks

 

[michail1]

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Has anyone had this done and had the same problem?
Or what to check first?

Thanks

I have the remote start as well. Agreed, it has nothing to do with the cruise control part.

My vehicle is COMPLETELY stock (except the remote start).

The switch that goes bad is in the brake master cylinder. (Not the brake switch as the brake pedal). It was mentioned that the switch puts the crusie in standby, but if the switch is broken, the cruise nevers turns on in order to go into standby. When the switch goes bad, it is normally intermittant. So, the cruise light will go on and instantly off with each press of the cruise button. If you are board, you can drive down the street constantly hitting the button and it may eventually go on (which is my experience). Eventually, it will never go on.

When I called Ford, the guy knew instantly what the problem was when I told him what happened. It was so obvious that it seemed like he was telling me you turn on a light when you walk into a dark room if you want to see.

 

[burrcor]

any other symptoms?

Thanks for the reply

Just seems really odd that the cruise stopped working just after the remote start was installed

If this switch on the master cylinder is bad, wouldn't there be other symptoms? maybe a fault code?

Also
since a very light touch of the brake pedal will disengage the cruise it would might seem that pressure at the master cyl. would need increased pressure from the pedal.

Though, if I'm understanding this right, the only real disconnect is at the master cyl. sw. with there being NO electrical interface at the brake pedal itself?


Lastly
If, while going down the road, and I keep trying to activate the cruise with there being no cruise light being illuminated (even briefly) what might that mean

PS
how would test the master cylinder switch?

Thanks

 

[burrcor]

Brake pedal position sw.

I saw that the brake pedal position sw. is interfaced with the cruise

Could the remote start install have moved it off kilter?

again
thanks for any help on this

 

[michail1]

Temporary --
My problem started as intermitted. I could press the cruise on button many times with the indicator briefly lighting. It would eventually turn on and work if I kept pressing the button. I put up with it for some time, because it wasn't worth bringing in for repair and dealing with a rental car, etc.

Broke --
Finally, it stopped working all together. Pressing button didn't even briefly light it.

Since it was in warranty, I didn't care what it took to repair it when I did bring it in. The day I got the truck back, I went to get an oil change and popped the hood. From the dust/dirt, I could tell that the switch (pressure/position - whatever) on the brake master cylinder was new and dirt wiped away from the area. Since the repair paperwork shows only the switch, and it was told to me before hand, and the appearance of the new switch, I tend to believe it was what caused the problem. I am sure if more was replaced, they definately would have said or put it in the paperwork to be paid by Ford.

The brake switch at the pedal (linkage) is for the rear brake lights.

 

[burrcor]

ncranchero posted that the remote start is tied into cruise

is the master cylinder sw. an N/O or N/C switch?

 

[michail1]

To install a remote start, you don't even need to pop the hood (other than maybe to disconnect the battery). So, the switch should have nothing to do with remote start. Remote start is tied to the brake switch at the pedal.

The brake master switch is NC (normally closed).

I just happened to find a link that explains the switch, etc. Even tells you that it is about $25.

http://www.antony-anderson.com/Cruise/Cruise_Deactivation_Switch.html

 

[morinjo]

Cruise control problem

When I try to engage the cruise control in my 2005 Sportstrak the indicator light in the dashboard will just flicker for a second and the crusie control will not engage. Was able to fix by replacing the sensor switch located in the front end of the brakes master cylinder. I purchase the sensor at the local Ford dealer for $29 and the CC is back to normal.

 

[michail1]

So, you're another person confirming the fix as stated.

Since you purchased the part directly, would you please post the Ford part number. It would make it easy for those in the future seeing the post.

 

[morinjo]

Switch for Explorer Sportstrak with Cruise Control problem

Michail:

The Motorcraft part number is 3L3Z9F924AB. The nomenclature is SWITCH ASSY

Happy New Year.

 

[RICK6744]

If you jumper the plug from the switch and the cruise works it confirms that the switch is bad, I have a 2004 sport trac that had the same problem, tried many things finally jumped the plug for the front switch on the master cylinder and it solved the problem. I found the part(MOTORCRAFT SW6349) online at rockauto.com for $25 with shipping, Ford dealer wanted $50

 

[rokr1292]

How do I install a brake switch for a 2002 ford explorer sport trac? I have already bought the piece and put it in the problem now is my truck won't get out of PARK! Please help!

Im in the same situation as above, only I need to know if there is a way to bypass the switch temporarily, just so the shift lever is unlocked and I can make it to class for my final and a date tonight. Hoping for a quick reply somewhere, I have a 911 thread up but no replies

 

[Shad747]

Where's the master cyl. switch located? Is it on the master cyl?

 

[RICK6744]

Yes,it is right in front of the reservoir for the fluid. It screws into the casting, no problem, the fluid won't leak out.
Good luck

 

[JSingleton]

i finally got my cruise control fixed it was the 40.00 switch on the master or slave cylinder i forgot which one. i walked in and bought from ford, he knew exactly what i was talking about when i said cruise control and cylinder.

 

[rreid8]

Cruise issue

Had the same problem with the flashing green light on the dash and cruise wouldn't engage. Changed the sensor at the master cylinder as mentioned here for just under $50 CDN and haven't had a problem since. Thanks for the advice.

 

[crewguy]

Thanks for all of the advice. My lite would just flick on and then off real quick. I replaced the switch on the break master cylinder.( Motorcraft SW 6349 from rockauto ) Took a total of five minutes to replace and the problem is fixed as good as new. Sure beets paying the dealer.It was $29 and change with shipping and had it in two days.

 

[graessle]

Any advice for my 04 Sport trac? It does the same thing. i'll hit the button to engage cruise control and it will just light up and turn off after a split second. I've got it to turn on once in a blue moon but other than that no luck.

Problem Solved! it was the swith in front of the master cylinder as well. 40.00 about and cc is all good. Thanks Fellas!

 

[Cpt_Radical]

About 2 years ago while on vacation, CC started to act intermittently on our '05 sport trac. Paid around $300 to Pompamo (FL) Ford for a new clock spring (their first diagnosis). CC worked for a few days, then problem returned. Blew it off until recently when I had the control switches replaced here at home. CC worked for 2 days and problem came back. Finally found this forum and ordered the master cylinder release switch from rockauto.com. It literally took longer to find my 7/8" deep socket than to change the switch! (and no loss of fluid by the way) Thank you one and all!

Cpt_Radical

 

[mneccspv]

I basically went thrrough the same ordeal and replaced the switch on the master cylinder for the second time and now it works fine. Apparently the one the stealer installed was bad also. Goes to show that going back and double checking all the things that were supposedly fixed might still be the root of the probelm.

On a side note, I have a good control module for the taking if anyone needs it. Fits the 04 sport trac. Just pay the shipping.