The power savings are negligible on a light that is only on momentarily. The benefit from an LED in a brake light is the fast on time. Real power savings only comes from the fact that they are replacing your running lights. When people use a combination of resistors and LEDs to trick a bulb out warning, then they aren't gaining anything.
A Prius has LED running lights, an LED brake, and an incandescent turn signal. The LED running lights are to save power, the LED brake is for the fast on time, and the turn doesn't matter. This is the reason it is common for most manufacturers to have switched the tail/brake to LEDs, but it is still common for them to use incandescent turns. They are trying to save money and increase vehicle safety. Some put LED turns on some vehicles now too, but that is only for show.
But. If you still think you are losing out...
An incandescent bulb draws 27 watts on its bright mode. So, two of them are drawing 54 watts. That is a lot of power, over 4 amps, and per OHMs law, that is about the same as you are drawing with your LED with a resistor in parallel.
Now, the average time a turn signal is lit is about half the time for... let's say 30 seconds.
Good enough, with those two incandescent bulbs that draw 54 watts per hour together, or LED/resistor combinations that draw a similar amount, you have just saved a whopping 0.2 watts of energy as compared to using that LED on its own.
Now, given that the EPA says that a gallon of gas is roughly equal to 33.7 kw/h of power when used by an internal combustion engine, and let's assume an 80% energy conversion by your alternator from the turning of your engine (that means we will assume you are actually saving 0.25 watts of engine power), and you only need to run that blinker for 134,800 times for 30 seconds before saving a gallon of gas. That's right, about 1200 hours of running your blinker.
When using those LEDs as your running lights, you are saving power based on twice as many of them being on at at time on an Explorer, so it only takes 300 hours of using your lights to save a gallon of gasoline, since you have twice as many bulbs, and they are on constantly instead of half the time.
Your brakes? Guess that means you are sitting with your foot on the brake for 600 hours before you save a gallon of gas from those two LEDs having no load resistor.
I don't know about you, but I'm pretty honest with myself. I only replace bulbs with LEDs because they are cool, though, it is pretty easy to justify the replacement of running lights, as you can see.
Hoping it is in the best spot? Do you install parts wearing a blindfold?
Yes, the digital flasher works great. BUT. For some things, a resistor is a better choice. For instance, on a first gen, if you replace the third brake light with LEDs, you usually lose your cruise control, and they will light with your markers, because the cruise control measures the small voltage through the 3rd brake when they are off, and with the lights on, there is enough voltage to light the third brake light. A similar problem is happening with Dersch's brake lights. Voltage is leaking over through his markers, which is why I suggested a resistor on his BRAKE lights. Note, I didn't suggest any others, but the resistor could go on his turns as well. Just as long as he doesn't wire them going through his running light circuit, he will not ever lose out on the gains that can be had from running LEDs.