-Deathrow Update Log-

[DemonMudder]

Well after all morning, it finally went in, cranked. But even with water in the radiator, the heat gauge already reached halfway just from a couple turns around the block and I could smell it getting hot. That and the sound I heard from before is still there, but now whenever I hit the gas, theres almost a grinding like noise? Even does it a little like every couple seconds while just idling. Got a video of that sound, can hear it now and then passed the wind. The first start was a bit harsh too, grindy as well but the last few haven't been as bad. Can hear it around 23 seconds in

I did drop one of the screws for the throttle body, think it's in the fan shroud

 

[Fix4Dirt]

could the grinding be from the screw? and is the tstat stuck closed? does it come close to overheating?

 

[DemonMudder]

could the grinding be from the screw? and is the tstat stuck closed? does it come close to overheating?

Don't think so, would think that the screw would be a constant vibration, not like every other second or upon acceleration like what I'm hearing. Not sure its stuck closed, what on it exactly would be closed? Family thinks it's in upside down, but it's all exactly how the old one was, so I'm not 100% on what's up. I'll tear it up tomorrow, since I actually have the day off. And as said, I literally did a loop, not even a mile worth in the neighborhood and the temp guage was already halfway, it's never gotten that high.

I'll keep y'all updated, may ask more, but for now, I'm about ready to destroy a truck! lol

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Don't think so, would think that the screw would be a constant vibration, not like every other second or upon acceleration like what I'm hearing. Not sure its stuck closed, what on it exactly would be closed? Family thinks it's in upside down, but it's all exactly how the old one was, so I'm not 100% on what's up. I'll tear it up tomorrow, since I actually have the day off. And as said, I literally did a loop, not even a mile worth in the neighborhood and the temp guage was already halfway, it's never gotten that high.

I'll keep y'all updated, may ask more, but for now, I'm about ready to destroy a truck! lol

as coolant heats up, when it reaches 192 iirc is when the tstat is fully open and letting coolant flow thru... sometimes, they can get stuck shut, so no coolnt flow

 

[DemonMudder]

as coolant heats up, when it reaches 192 iirc is when the tstat is fully open and letting coolant flow thru... sometimes, they can get stuck shut, so no coolnt flow

And how would one determine if that's the case and/or solve that?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

And how would one determine if that's the case and/or solve that?

if the temps are at operating temp but teh upper hose feels cool/not too hot... could also be a huge air bubble... did you bleed system?

 

[DemonMudder]

if the temps are at operating temp but teh upper hose feels cool/not too hot... could also be a huge air bubble... did you bleed system?

Mostly, it kind of threw everything pretty much out on day one when I had to replace it. And all day today, missed a seal when I threw it in the first time and threw everything out again. So I guess it's not impossible, wasn't 100% bled, but she dripped over three days waiting on the part, so that could be it.

 

[CDW6212R]

The thermostat is a fragile part that is known to fail at various ages and mileages. I prefer to change it any time the thermostat housing is off, or with any odd symptom. The cost is low compared to the importance, it's critical.

The coolant system is not hard to fill and expel air, ignore anyone telling you it has to have a special procedure. You fill the radiator and overflow bottle to near the top, start the engine and fill the radiator as it first runs. Put the radiator cap on after a couple minutes of running, try to do that before the thermostat opens and the hot coolant gushes out. With the system enclosed, the air will expel naturally in a few cycles of the engine cooling off and running up to temperature again.

The cap must function properly, or air will not be pushed out, which requires sucking coolant back in again during cooling. So the cap is another item that should be replaced if it is suspect.

 

[DemonMudder]

The thermostat is a fragile part that is known to fail at various ages and mileages. I prefer to change it any time the thermostat housing is off, or with any odd symptom. The cost is low compared to the importance, it's critical.

The coolant system is not hard to fill and expel air, ignore anyone telling you it has to have a special procedure. You fill the radiator and overflow bottle to near the top, start the engine and fill the radiator as it first runs. Put the radiator cap on after a couple minutes of running, try to do that before the thermostat opens and the hot coolant gushes out. With the system enclosed, the air will expel naturally in a few cycles of the engine cooling off and running up to temperature again.

The cap must function properly, or air will not be pushed out, which requires sucking coolant back in again during cooling. So the cap is another item that should be replaced if it is suspect.

Cap looks fine and seems fine, but not horrible to look into. The housing I got came with a new thermostat and sensors in it, all the goodies. But the passenger side sensor does sit higher (looks like its maybe not fully mounted in?) than the other sensor, which wasn't the case on the old one and wonder if thats part of it.

Does anyone have an idea for that noise though yet?

 

[donalds]

I installed a bleed valve
Works a treat to

Coolant Bleeder valve

I have been putting off changing my wife's coolant The thousands of threads on burping the system THERE HAS TO BE A BETTER WAY This is what I came up with Hope this helps someone some day This mod cost me $5.39 and about a hour I put a flat spot on the coolant pipe with a hammer Just feed...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[410Fortune]

Thermostat Spring goes towards the engine (does not matter what type of engine, good trick to know)

Air can get trapped under the coolant sensor and will read hot in the gauge until all the air is bled from the system

Make sure the tube between the overflow and the top of the radiator is clear.

Your new coolant sensor for the same year truck? Do you have a scanner so you can get water temp from the pcm??


The noise sounds exactly
Like a cat shield rattle I would check exhaust for any looseness any missing mounts or any rattles

 

[DemonMudder]

Spring goes towards the engine

Air can get trapped under the coolant sensor and will read hot in the gauge until all the air is bled from the system

Your new coolant sensor for the same year truck? Do you have a scanner so you can get water temp from the pcm??


The noise sounds exactly
Like a cat shield rattle I would check exhaust for any looseness any missing mounts or any rattles

I think I have something can read the temp, not 100% sure though.

Why would a cat shield just randomly decide to pop loose though? Its literally just been sitting the passed week.

I'll see about trying to bleed it, hopefully that'll be all it is.

 

[CDW6212R]

The cat shields are easy to become loose, the tiny spot welds let go after decades of rusting and vibrating. I have one corner of a cat, in one of my trucks that rattles. That's a pretty good record to only have two cats of all the Fords I've owned, have a cat rattling. I think it's usually easy to stop that rattle, tighten the parts, or cut it off if that's too much trouble.

 

[DemonMudder]

The cat shields are easy to become loose, the tiny spot welds let go after decades of rusting and vibrating. I have one corner of a cat, in one of my trucks that rattles. That's a pretty good record to only have two cats of all the Fords I've owned, have a cat rattling. I think it's usually easy to stop that rattle, tighten the parts, or cut it off if that's too much trouble.

Lovely, I HOPE that's all it is. Rather not have more to tear apart and fix.

Also, still not 100% on the heat issue, but I do know that the rubber seal for the thermostat was underneath it, which came like that, that I'm damn sure needs to be on top, partially why it was leaking I presume. Putting it back together now to see if that fixes at least that issue.

 

[DemonMudder]

Well, it's running. After a little under 5 minutes, temp gauge was about halfway, which that I'm aware should be about normal? Mine never used to reach that high, but that could be my old stuff just going bad. Was reading about 154° coolant temp when I shut it off, now remember it's only water in the system for the moment, probably still a small hint of coolant.

Also, anyone know the name or part number for this? Beginning to leak, aka making a hissing sound which I do not like. The tube itself all the way to the plenum seems fine

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Well, it's running. After a little under 5 minutes, temp gauge was about halfway, which that I'm aware should be about normal? Mine never used to reach that high, but that could be my old stuff just going bad. Was reading about 154° coolant temp when I shut it off, now remember it's only water in the system for the moment, probably still a dmall hint of coolant

depending on how you drive (lots of hills around me) it reaches op temp in somewhere around there, not sure how long idling though, maybe 8-10? not entirely sure

 

[DemonMudder]

depending on how you drive (lots of hills around me) it reaches op temp in somewhere around there, not sure how long idling though, maybe 8-10? not entirely sure

So it's honestly probably running fine. Still going to wait for my dad to get off work and we'll mess around some more. But I think that's one issue down, still not 100% on the rattle, think theres a piston tick or maybe now an upper manifold gasket issue due to me pulling it on and off so many times though, can hear crap from there on the passenger side now.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

So it's honestly probably running fine. Still going to wait for my dad to get off work and we'll mess around some more. But I think that's one issue down, still not 100% on the rattle, think theres a piston tick or maybe now an upper manifold gasket issue due to me pulling it on and off so many times though, can hear crap from there on the passenger side now.

the mani gaskets in my experience are one time use, once you pull em you replace em... my cat tick is more consistent and sounds like tapping a screwdriver against solid metal imo

 

[DemonMudder]

the mani gaskets in my experience are one time use, once you pull em you replace em... my cat tick is more consistent and sounds like tapping a screwdriver against solid metal imo

They're rubber gaskets though, so I figured for disassembling once may be mostly fine, maybe a slight issue. But I think doing it like 10 times trying to fix things, need new ones, which I don't mind doing later.

 

[joney]

Lovely, I HOPE that's all it is. Rather not have more to tear apart and fix.

Also, still not 100% on the heat issue, but I do know that the rubber seal for the thermostat was underneath it, which came like that, that I'm damn sure needs to be on top, partially why it was leaking I presume. Putting it back together now to see if that fixes at least that issue.

Definitely the o-ring for the thermostat sits on top of it! For bleeding air, park with the nose uphill so the heater core is lower than the coolant tank/radiator cap. Learned that here.